Recent content by jellison

Puma 1.7 - £450 ono. Only 2nd owner from new (bought from Cobham Ford 11 years ago). Been a perfect car, never broken down / had any issues in all that time, used most days. AC, alarm, central Locking, electric windows, Power steering, CD/Stereo. Updated with ST170 / Mondeo Mk3 300mm...

I have teh Eibach 30mm lower kit (make sure you take to a tyre place and have the std camber, castor, etc put on post the mods -otherwise you will wear the tyres out in no time). I have the 300mm ST170's and Mondeo calipers under std 15' fits by a fag paper - handling is awesome - can't see the...

No worries - maybe I should fit it! Never enough time in the day - to be honest I don't think they need them though!

Jacko, just gotten round to reading the full thread. Great Effort. Can't wait to get my calipers bolted up to my new toy (end of summer hopefully be driveable) with new AP 305 Comp Disc's. Had a close look at my Alcons post reading the whole thread and they look like new! So well chuffed (but...

Will do, anyone got any idea on how much the above should cost?

Can anyone guide me to the best place (price and quality) for these part (new caliper pistons and seal kits) for the FRP Alcons?

cheers guys - do have one of those devices (for topping up proper gearboxes!!). I'll pop a bit more in this way then.

Unbelieveable! Feels like it is tightening a bit - must be getting low. If clutch is replaced so it can be done then, then! If not I'll do as you say, top up to 5-10mm below the hole. Not like a real car then! Not sure how taking the gear box "off" helps you full it, is there access when it is...

So if not changing the clutch (I might be soon - but if I was not), how can you change the gearbox oil? Or are you sayingyou can't and all you can do it top it up!!!

Where is the Gearbox oil Filler (underneath). It does not seem to be that obvious!

Ian has very kindly sent me a link on how to access the other side. It IS fron inside - but require taking the seats and all trim and speakers out on that side. Then basically get some VERY strong Rust KILLER, sand it all off and apply (may have to take off the sound deadening to get at it...

Cool - Think I'll do this when weather better and can spend a few days on it properly (i.e. from inside).

Thanks Ian (if anyone does have this threads link please post). So is this thread sayin if you can get in behind and it is not too bad that proper treatment inside and out could fix it (or hold it off alot longer than just redoing the outside?). But how doe the rust get in, in the first...

Sorry to not be clear on this. So to get behind (the other side of the panel) do I take out the wheel arch liner, does this give me total access to the are? Is it a double sceen so can see the otherside of the panel from inside the car?

Seems excessive if once rubbed down to the metal and all trace of rust gone? Is metal so thinn and or rust is coming through from the back? Is it boxed in that area?