I love your car and your reports. Very detailed and very informative!

Glad to report that replacing the brake lines with the ones in original size (being 6 mm OD) made brakes behave as tehy should. They are more reponsive and much faster at releasing! https://i.imgur.com/qm1PhGS.jpg Nothing new here to be seen from this angle. But this one reveals a change https://i.i...

First bonnet closure test https://i.imgur.com/jCDOzT5.jpg Made a cone out of paper and closed the bonnet to check for the clearance And this was the result, so plenty of space over the brake fluid tank https://i.imgur.com/Zv7z4MH.jpg This was the test ST150 MBC failed big time. Also, worth pointing ...

There is more to it, will post it later

So, a little update. All of you who have upgraded brakes to ST150 standard (280 mm rotors at front, and rear discs at 253 mm) know that servo-master brake cylinder is struggling to keep up with that. It brakes fine until you start increasing pressure on pedal as soon the master brake cylinder maxes ...

Great documentation Paul!

Nothing beats a car you have known for a long time and then rediscovering how good it actually is if you fit some new parts onto it!

Curious what the line speed was like for them, how often they came down etc. I know for a fact (visited a plant) that Renault has about 70 seconds per post line speed. That means at each station the car (to be) is stationary for 70 seconds and then moves on. More complicated tasks that are not poss...

Your aftermarket camshafts were over the top for stock map. FRP map was more suited to the modified engine and cured the problem...

IMHO the only thing that can be called reliable is a japanese car produced IN JAPAN at the end of last century. Honda civic, toyota corolla etc. of that age are truly indestructible vehicles unless put in a wall or a ditch. At this age the corossion would be number #1 problem, but if you find a one ...

Of course, it is your money. I just have a feeling that it is something trivial and that you will regret it laterm that is all...

So sad...

How are your contacts on MAF connector? That would be my prime point of suspicion. Since the replacement brough an improvement, it could be that resistance at connecting point is too big. Just a thought. I mean, you have replaced almost everything electric so the components should be ok...? Did you ...

So sorry to read this. That is one thing that is hunting me as well with mine; I have fear (everyday bigger and bigger) that when I do everything I wanted on the car someone drunk/drugged would crash into me...

Feel for you, get another one while it is still possible

raggamuffin wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 17, 2019 11:01 pm

I kept driving to provoke the judder and it didn't happen.

If you have closed it to the second stage (deadlocks) you can't open it manually. You will need to give it some 12V if battery has died. Try reaching into the engine bay and connecting the 12V to the starter and minus to the chassis. It should help the battery and wake up the car. The other option i...

Seems to have helped the rough idling quite considerably. I drove it up and down the road for 5 mins or so. Idling dips, IAV catches and it goes back to a smooth idle. I am fully aware of the TIS recommendation, but it was written with service (as a job) for making money and saving time. I have fou...

Looking nice. The ironing board in the last picture is also part of the upgrade? (grogee beat me to it)

Use multimeter and check resistance. You should get something close to 1100 Ohm. Since the problem is intermittent, I would check the connectors, perhaps some corrosion has settled in...?

Two typical points: cam cover seal and the crankseal. Most probably it is one of these two. The third possibility is camshaft seal leak.

Yes, sound like ABS. Check the sensor to tone ring gap. This behaviour, grinding to a stop is usually a sign of misaligned or slightly damaged tone ring (few notches are bent in). As the speed decreases so the signal weakens and at the point of irregularity it will break down i.e. disappear. The ABS...

Engine alone (bare engine) is well below 100 kgs as all other engines of sigma familiy are. I would say we are talking 80-ish kgs here. Adding the flywheel will bring it up closer to 100 kgs, but still keep it below that (in region of 90-ish kg) Hope that helps. Or you wanted exact figure? (which I ...

Ouch, that is SOME price and then some.... I bet it has rotten away at the front twisted section which is there just to provide for PSP switch next to A/C compressor. There is some rubber to protect it, but it is turned so that opening is at the top; the moisture and crap collect there and it is jus...

Oh yes, my car being LHD version will have a different shape of it....

Chech my thread, I had it repaired. You will find images there

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