How to detail a car.. dodo style

[Dal]

Saw this on the Dodo Juice forum so thought a share would be good for reference:

http://dodojuice.com/juicebar/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3052" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is how a normal detail would flow:

Step 1 - Pre-Rinse: this process can involve rinsing the car down with clear water, 'snow-foaming' using a pressure washer lance, or even a traffic film remover like Dodo-Juice Crudzilla depending upon the level of grime.

Step 2 - Clean Wheels: Use a dedicated wheel cleaner like Mellow Yellow and a collection of brushes (An EZ-Detail Mini for the spokes/barrels, and a Swissvax Detail brush for the faces and around the lug-nuts are my choice.) to remove the brake dust embedded in your wheels.

Step 3 - Degreasing: Fill a spray bottle with a concentrated All-Purpose-Cleaner (Meguiar's D103 APC+, Optimum Power Clean, R222 Total Auto Wash, 1Z Einszett Blitz, or Bilt-Hamber Surfex HD, for example.) diluted to an appropriate level, and in combination with the same detailing brushes I listed above, use this solution to deep clean your tyres, trim, door jambs, and optionally your engine bay in preparation for later dressing.

Step 4 - Wash: Use (A) the 2-bucket method with a ph-neutral shampoo like Basics of Bling, Born to be Mild, or Supernatural shampoo; or (B) rinseless wash using Low on Eau*. For 2BM washes, I absolutely adore my Short Haired Wookie wash mitten, though it does require a lot of upkeep, so I would recommend a semi-synthetic mitten like the Tribble, Basics of Bling Microfiber Sponge, or the Supernatural Sponge for beginners.

* Read my reply in this thread for more information on rinseless washing: http://www.dodojuice.com/juicebar/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2950&p=22629#p22629" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.

Step 5 - Dry: You can use a waffle weave towel (I like the Microfiber Madness Waverider in this category; these are durable, and do not lint.), a dense pile microfiber towel (Dodo-Juice Double-Plush is my personal favorite, as it is the gentlest on the finish, though it can hold some lint.), and or a forced-air dryer (These are similar to the warm-air blower used by pet groomers, and are something of an investment, though the low-rent alternative is to use a leaf blower .) to assure that all cleaned areas are perfectly dry.

Step 6 - Tar Removal (Optional): If you have a lot of tar, adhesive, or rubber debris left on the finish, it is wise to use a dedicated tar remover (Either a citrus-solvent based product like Dodo-Juice Tarmalade or Supernatural Tar & Glue Remover, or a petroleum-solvent based product like Auto-Finesse ObliTARate or Autosmart TARDIS.). Spray or dab on the product to the effected area, and wipe off with a microfiber to remove the offending debris.

Step 7 - Iron Removal (Optional): A lot of modern cars suffer from ferrous metallic fallout, which can be caused by brake dust from other cars in close traffic, metalwork near your vehicle, or being in close proximity to railroad tracks. Examples of iron removers are CarPro IronX, Auto-Finesse Iron Out, and Wolf's Chemicals WF-1P.

Step 8 - Rinse with clear water to remove residue from fallout removal products

Step 9 - Clay: Using a detailing clay bar helps to remove imbedded contamination from your paintwork that is missed in previous fallout removal stages, and helps to prep the finish for following detailing steps. Lubricate the surface using a fine mist of a dedicated lube like Born to be Slippy (Though you can use a shampoo mixture in a spray bottle if you're in a bind.), divide your clay bar (Dodo-Juice Gentle Gray, Supernatural, or Supernatural Medium would all be ideal; Purposeful Purple may be a bit strong for your application.) into 3-6 pieces, and using only finger-tip pressure rub the piece of clay against the finish until you can feel it gliding smoothly. Frequently inspect the clay, and re-knead it as necessary to expose a fresh surface to prevent instilling marring. When the clay bar no longer exposes a clean surface after kneading, throw that piece away, and use a new piece. A little tip is to also clay your windscreen, as this helps to improve wiper function, and increase clarity.

Step 10 - Re-Rinse, and repeat drying stage.

Step 11 - Correction (Optional): Using abrasive compounds and polishes, you can re-level the paintwork to remove major defects including scratches, and moderate to heavy swirling. As your are removing paint, it is something of a more advanced process, and one which I do not recommend to detailers in their first 1-2 years. You can perform this operation by hand, but it is hugely time consuming, and made much easier by either electric Dual-Action or Rotary polisher.

Step 12 - Glazing/Cleansing: Applying a glaze or paintwork cleanser helps to increase gloss, depth, clarity, wetness, remove or obscure light marring, strip previous wax layers, and create a slick finish for subsequent waxing or sealing. Dodo-Juice Lime Prime Lite is a non-abrasive oil-based glaze containing cleansing solvents, and will do little to remove wash marring, but will leave behind a very high gloss. Supernatural Micro-Prime contains a very mild diminishing abrasive that can achieve similar gloss levels to LPL, but can also remove minor defects. Lime Prime contains glazing oils AND diminishing abrasives, and is the most aggressive of these three products. I would personally advise using Micro-Prime to prep, as on some very soft finishes (Which Japanese cars stereotypically have.), Lime Prime can be a little too aggressive. Stick to a small area (18"X18") at a time, and use either a microfiber or multi-layer foam applicator to work the product into the finish; remove the residue with a soft microfiber towel only once the product has been fully broken down.

Step 13 - Waxing/Sealing: At the base end of the Dodo-Juice wax spectrum are the 'Core-8' waxes, which are Dodo-Juice's original wax blends. What are classified as the 'Soft Waxes' (Rainforest Rub, Purple Haze, Orange Crush, and Light Fantastic.) are the easiest to work with, and create the wettest finish due to the high oil content. However, they are also the easiest to over-apply, so be careful. Next up in line are the 'Pro' semi-synthetic waxes, Rubbish Boy's Juiced Edition, and finally Supernatural/Supernatural Hybrid. All Dodo-Juice waxes from my experience are very easy to use, and punch well above their price bracket in regards to performance/appearance. Having said that, the Supernatural line is truly something special, though not quite as forgiving as the Core-8 waxes. I would recommend to start with a soft core-8 wax (Orange Crush was a good choice.), and work your way up to the Supernatural series once you have attained more skill, as they are very pure, and are most rewarding on perfectly prepared finishes. The core-8 waxes in my experience will provide 6-12 weeks of durability if properly maintained, which is very good for a wax of this price bracket, though if you eventually need more durability, Supernatural Hybrid can easily offer 6-months of protection. Always remember to apply Dodo-Juice waxes as thin as you possibly can (The Supernatural and Basics of Bling Finger applicators help a lot in trying to do this.), and do not allow them to bake on; the core-8 waxes typically only need 3-10 minutes depending upon the ambient temperature before removal. If the wax re-hazes (Typically a sign you either applied it too thickly, or did not fully remove the residue.), a spritz and buff with ice-cold water will sort that problem very easily, and this also helps to 'flash-cure' the wax before applying additional coats. Dodo-Juice waxes benefit greatly from applying multiple coats, which enhances the wetness, depth, and durability they can offer. Applying 3-6 coats will also increase the 'Colour Charging' effect of the core-8 waxes, which tends to be almost unnoticeable after just a single coat.

Step 14 - Metal Polishing: Using a metal polish like the Dodo-Juice Supernatural Metal Polish Trio will help to brighten up the finish of metal and chrome components, like exhaust tips, badges, and brightwork trim. Applying a durable sealant like Supernatural Hybrid, or even a quick spray-on sealant like Supernatural Acrylic-Spritz will help to maintain this polished finish, and minimize future oxidation.

Step 15 - Trim Dressing: By applying a trim dressing like Fantastic Plastic, or even a trim coating like Supernatural Satin/Gloss Trim Sealant, you can protect your hard plastic trims from fading, and turning grey due to UV-exposure. This quick step will give the plastic on your car a dark, subtle sheen, and helps to compliment the rest of your detailing work. Nothing lets down a nicely detailed car like manky trim . Fantastic Plastic is very easy to apply, so it would be my recommendation. SN Trim sealant is a semi-permanent quartz-resin coating, and can be a little bit more finicky to use, so I would leave that until you get a bit more experience under your belt. FP will net you 3-12 weeks of durability depending upon your location and vehicle usage, though SN Trim Sealant can protect the trim for up to a year, so it may be worth investigating in the long run.

Step 16 - Wheel Sealing (Optional): Sealing your wheels allows you to maintain them with just shampoo, and eschew regular use of wheel cleaners, which can get expensive. It's a time consuming process, and requires you to go through the same preparation steps (6-11) that I outlined for paintwork, so many people find it simpler to just use a dedicated wheel cleaner as part of their normal wash regimen. However, if you do choose to seal your wheels, I would recommend using either Supernatural Acrylic-Spritz, or Dodo-Juice Supernatural Hybrid, as these are the only two products in the Dodo-Juice lineup at this point in time that are able to withstand the heat, and durable enough to be worth your time for this application.

Step 17 - Tyre Dressing: This serves the same purpose as trim dressing, and is equally important. Dodo-Juice offers two products at this point in time for this application: Tyromania and Supernatural Tyre Dressing. Tyromania is a bit of an acquired taste, as it is actually a black-tinted wax, and provides a very natural finish. The application is very similar to applying a shoe polish, and you can increase the gloss level from a matte to a satin finish by buffing it with the aid of a water spritz once it is fully cured. Tyromania is a personal favorite of mine, as it is very durable (1-month minimum in my experience.), and tyres treated with this product stay much cleaner. Another option is Supernatural Tyre dressing, which being a liquid dressing has a much more straightforward wipe-on application procedure, and provides a satin finish right out of the bottle. It isn't as durable as Tyromania, but on the other hand, it's also easier to top-up, so your choice really depends upon personal preference.

Step 18 - Door Jambs: A little professional trick is to polish and wax the door jambs as you would the exterior paint; this makes them easier to clean, and helps to complete the 'freshly detailed' appearance.

Step 19 - Interior Detailing: At this point in time, Dodo-Juice does not offer any interior detailing products, so I will try to keep this section brief. Also, as your car is new, you won't really have to do anything more than give everything a thorough vacuuming, and treat the leather/vinyl/plastics. This later stage is going to be very important, as Australia's climate is on the warm side, and also has a high UV-index which will quickly break down interior plastics/vinyl. Most detailers like a very matte, OEM-type finish, so favor products like Optimum Protectant Plus, Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer, Auto-Finesse Spritz, or Jeff's Werkstat Satin-Prot. I tend to like a slightly darker finish, and as I also live in a hot climate, I use CarPro PERL coat at a 5:1 dilution on my interior trim. This provides a UV-block equivalent to SPF40, is very economical, and does not add too much gloss.

Step 20 - Glass Cleaning: I like to clean the glass as one of the last stages, as this way I can deal with drips, and product overspray. If you have a good drying technique, you will really only need to use a dedicated cleaner on the interior glass, though if your drying towel lints (A big pet-peeve of mine.) you will want to do the outside as well. The trick to achieving perfect clarity is in using a good glass cleaner like Dodo-Juice Clearly menthol, in combination with a dedicated waffle-weave microfiber towel like the Supernatural window waffle, and checking the glass from multiple angles with a good light source.

Step 21 - Glass Sealing (Optional): Glass sealants like Dodo-Juice Supernatural Glass Sealant help to clear water from the windscreen during a rain, and can even minimize the need for wipers. I personally find this a key safety feature, as it prevents water from pooling on the screen, and minimizes windscreen wiper streaking, which both enhance visibility. Like any other area of detailing, research, patience, and a meticulous mindset are the keys to success. Closely adhere to the instructions of whichever product you choose, and you won't go very wrong. Dodo-Juice's glass sealant is reputed to be one of the best on the market, though other companies like GTechniq, Nanolex, Wolf's Chemicals, and PPG also have decent products for this application.

Step 22 - Quick Detailing (Optional): The final stage of any detail I do is quick detailing, as this removes any dust/product residue that might have accumulated on the paintwork whilst I was attending to other stages, and also helps me to mop up any pesky water drips from mirrors and door handles without leaving mineral deposits. Basics of Bling QD or Supernatural Carnauba-Glaze would be perfect for this role, and will also help to maintain the finish after washing during future maintenance. Both of these are carnauba-based, and will fit very naturally in with the appearance of your wax. Dodo-Juice Red Mist Tropical and Supernatural Acrylic-Spritz are a bit different, as these are actually synthetic spray sealants, and are typically used to add protection once your LSP is nearing the end of its effective life. They will alter the appearance of your wax finish, and will instill a very glossy, 'crisp' look, with much more defined high-angle reflections. You will lose a little bit of warmth and wetness in the process, which on some finishes is a worthy trade off, though I would experiment a little bit first to make sure that this is a look you like. RMT is a solvent based product, and will strip your wax if applied too soon, so I would wait a week, and apply it after your first maintenance wash if this is a product you want to integrate into your routine. SN Acrylic-Spritz is waterborne, and can be applied as soon as you want.

Hopefully this helps to clarify the detailing process, and gives you a comprehensive explanation of the Dodo-Juice line. I would repeat this full process 2-4 times a year depending upon usage, re-wax after washing/QD'ing as often as the mood strikes you, re-treat your interior/exterior trim/rubber as often as seems necessary, and repeat steps 1, 2, 4, and 5 every 1-2 weeks, and steps 20 and 22 every 2-3. Remember to always work in the shade (Or preferably in a climate controlled space.), follow the instructions, take your time, practice your technique on things less important than your car (I waxed my computer, clayed my showever, polished my model cars, and cleaned every piece of glass in the house before I felt confident in my abilities.). The first year or two of detailing is just spent honing your wash technique, so I wouldn't try to undertake too much at once. If it becomes stressful, scale things back; detailing is supposed to be enjoyable, so try to have fun. You're already off to a good start by buying good products; this is a lesson most people don't learn for years, and results in a lot of frustration.

If you have any more questions, do not be afraid to ask; we are always very happy to help. Also, be sure to post photos of your Subie once it is 'Freshly Juiced', as I am sure we would all love to see your results .

Sincerely,

 

[Neil]

Good guide - shame you'd a four day weekend to do that lot!