Rear bushes

[huw_jenks]

Hi folks, haven't posted in a while because I keep my Puma off the road in the winter, but I'm making a list of jobs to do when I get it back out of the garage at Easter. The big one is changing the rear suspension bushes for polybushes, and I have a few questions.

I've read a couple of the How to Guides on here, and they've been very helpful. One question that remains is, how do I jack up the car? I don't really trust the sills enough to go on axle stands whilst I drop the rear axle down, so where else can I support the car by safely? I've looked at the Jacking Points guide on the How to Guides page, but it does't really have any answers for the rear of the car.

Secondly, where should I buy my new bushes from? I mean, I expect they're on Ebay, but I don't want them to come apart in five minutes. What's a good brand?

Cheers!

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Huw
The chassis rails further forward than the rear axle brackets are your best bet for axle stands but if the stands have a V shape on the top you'd be best to flatten it off with a big hammer to make them more stable under the car. Also when I did my car I built two piers of bricks with a workshop manual on top and put them under the sills just in case the car dropped off the axle stands. If you have a quick look through the first few pages of my build thread you'll see what I mean.
Barry

 

[zinc2000]

As above re the axle stand placement, keeps them well out of the way as well in case you need to swing the big hammer :grin:

As for the brick pillars, my option was placing the wheels under the car..just in case....have fun

 

[gingerdave]

Just did a pair last week on a Ka,so exactly the same.Jack the car on the beam as high as you can,then I used 5”x5”x2’ blocks of wood packed with other timber on top located under the forward chassis rail.Think the bushes are called Flowflex about £34 delivered,I’ve used them before and they work well.I always find it easier to drop whole assembly down ie Releasing 4 bolts in each beam which bolt into floor and not forgetting to release handbrake cables.I also find it easier to saw the metal bush that retain the rubber bush out with an electric hacksawTakes me about 2 hours aside but I’m 77.may find it easier to assemble bolts in trailing arms then lightly assemble 8 bolts in floor then fully tighten with car on floor

 

[gingerdave]

Just did a pair last week on a Ka,so exactly the same.Jack the car on the beam as high as you can,then I used 5”x5”x2’ blocks of wood packed with other timber on top located under the forward chassis rail.Think the bushes are called Flowflex about £34 delivered,I’ve used them before and they work well.I always find it easier to drop whole assembly down ie Releasing 4 bolts in each beam which bolt into floor and not forgetting to release handbrake cables.I also find it easier to saw the metal bush that retain the rubber bush out with an electric hacksawTakes me about 2 hours aside but I’m 77.may find it easier to assemble bolts in trailing arms then lightly assemble 8 bolts in floor then fully tighten with car on floor.

 

[sickofguessing]

I have to do mine (amongst putting a new engine, clutch and the other issues) , I was thinking of loosening the bottom bolts for the shockers and then swinging the arm down forward to change them.

Driving it yesterday in Stockton coming around rush hour the backend was crabbing or something.

I believe the best thing to do is to leave the centre bush bolt loose until the body has settled as not to have the bush twisted in it's resting position.

 

[huw_jenks]

Right, I'm preparing myself to do this over Easter. Thanks for the advice, wish me luck!

 

[grogee]

I haven't actually swapped the bushes in mine - I used a new beam that already has powerflex bushes fitted. But I would echo what everyone else has said - use the chassis rails with the axle stands.

I intend to press out the old bushes in my old beam and fit new ones if you're interested? Not free of course but very reasonable, I need the space more than the beam! I'm based in Southam, Warwickshire.

 

[huw_jenks]

Right, well I've made a start. Not gone too well to be honest.

Took me a while to suss out how to remove the handbrake cable clips without breaking them.

Now I've got a decent quality 19mm open spanner and 15mm ring spanner, but the nuts will not budge, and I'm starting to round off the nuts and the bolts.

It's all had a good soak in penetrating oil too, but I'm thinking that I might have to get the job done by a garage if I can't get the bolts undone, which I just know's gonna cost a fortune.

Any advice?

 

[DOH]

"Now I've got a decent quality 19mm open spanner and 15mm ring spanner, but the nuts will not budge, and I'm starting to round off the nuts and the bolts."
You need to use 6 sided 1/2" drive sockets, as they won't round off the heads, on at least the 19mm size. Iirc the 2/3 rubber hangers holding the exhaust need to be unhooked to allow you to have access on the drivers side bolts.

 

[huw_jenks]

"Now I've got a decent quality 19mm open spanner and 15mm ring spanner, but the nuts will not budge, and I'm starting to round off the nuts and the bolts."
You need to use 6 sided 1/2" drive sockets, as they won't round off the heads, on at least the 19mm size. Iirc the 2/3 rubber hangers holding the exhaust need to be unhooked to allow you to have access on the drivers side bolts.

There's no way of getting a socket on the 19mm nut. There's no room between the end of the bolt and the sill.

Might be able to get a socket on the 15mm, but you're right about the drivers side, the exhaust is right in the way.

If I take a multi-cutter to it, should I be able to punch the bolt out?

 

[grogee]

From memory my bolts only came out in the 'inboard' direction, ie towards the centre of the car. The nuts were on the outboard side and there was *just* enough room to slide a (15mm? 17mm?) ring spanner over it. Then I used a socket on the bolt end, think I might have had to use a cheater bar as well - super tight.

The bolts came out without a fight though. If you can get a grinder into the nut side without damaging bracket and bodywork then pull the bolt inwards... if you bust the bracket I have a spare.

 

[huw_jenks]

I've decided to get a garage to replace the bolts for me. There's no way I'm getting them to change the bushes, the labour will cost a fortune. This way, with some nice new bolts in there I should be able to slide them out and replace the bushes in a couple of weeks.

 

[DOH]

Toolstation sell a nut splitter ,

From memory my bolts only came out in the 'inboard' direction, ie towards the centre of the car. The nuts were on the outboard side and there was *just* enough room to slide a (15mm? 17mm?) ring spanner over it. Then I used a socket on the bolt end, think I might have had to use a cheater bar as well - super tight.

The bolts came out without a fight though. If you can get a grinder into the nut side without damaging bracket and bodywork then pull the bolt inwards... if you bust the bracket I have a spare.

Agreed with above . A torque wrench or power bar is needed as they are tight. I spray rusted bolt & nuts that won't undo with GT85 for 5-10 minutes before undoing.

 

[themermade]

A good brand is powerflex for the performance attributes and the lifetime guarantee, free delivery from the Power Flex Store

 

[CU51DYL]

I have some Powerflex bushes for my rear axle too that have sat in my shed for a month or two.. I'm tempted to be lazy and pay somebody else to do it

 

[RICHARD MANSFIELD2]

Hi,
A post of mine about 2 years old copied and pasted

Just a quick update. I replaced the bushes last Saturday I followed the how to do guide. However I did not have to unbolt the hand brake cables or touch the exhaust. The nut on one bush bolt had seized despite a course of derusting fluid applied regularly over a course of a week prior to doing the job, I eventually got it off. The other nut and bolt rounded. I simply cut the nut off with a hack saw, a quick and easy job. I had replacement M12 x 90mm hexbolts of suitable quality with large pattern washers and nylock nuts before I started the job. I had also purchased this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FIESTA-KA-REAR-AXLE-SUSPENSION-BUSH-REMOVAL-INSTALL-GARAGE-TOOL-1996-ON/253170234620?fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CModel%3APuma&hash=item3af21f34fc:g:n0EAAOSwB09YF0I4

It was so quick and easy using this tool. I would strongly recommend heating the bush housing prior to removal AND refitting the new bush, additionally place the new bushes in the freezer. Also just cut the nuts off and use new bolts on refitting. New bolts and the correct tool save loads of hassle.

Regards
Richard

 

[grogee]

If anyone wants to do this an easier way I have a rear beam for sale with brand new (standard) bushes fitted.

I've got powerflex in my car now but kinda wished I'd kept to standard as they are noisier and harsher... that said the polyurethane bushes are probably longer lasting.