Had a look on amazon for 1.4 spec cam belt/water pump kit and at only £77 plus pp seemed reasonable, but is SKF any good? I want to replace the water pump because the engine tends to run hotter at low revs & the dash vents don't put out any heat. Pick up the revs by dropping it down a gear and the situation reverses itself, needle just below halfway and a nice warm heater. Could it be that the water pump is struggling to circulate coolant I wonder. One other thing, got a very small coolant leak at the pipe connection to the right hand side of the cylinder head. It looks like an easy replacement but what's the component its attached to? Is it the thermostat housing? The pipe in question runs up to the HCV (recently replaced ford part) on the bulkhead and looks like its been manufactured as part of another pipe that runs round the front of the engine just below the intake manifold. Eighther way both the pipe and the component look badly furred up. Any advice welcome. Summers on its way and the tourists cause major traffic jams. Last thing I want is steam.
SKF cam belt kit
- Thread starter Ant laud
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tuonokid
Active member
Hi Anton
First thing, the leak at the right hand side of the head. If the 1.4 is like the 1.7 the largest pipe coming out of the casing tends to weep almost as if the hose is slightly too big for the alloy outlet. If you buy the right size jubilee clip to replace the spring clip Ford put on and clean off the pipe outlet as it will be all furred up it will do a better job of sealing. (TBH it's easier to clean the stub with the casing off the car so if you do you will need a new gasket from Ford.
As for the water pump in 99% of cases when they fail they end up leaking water so I don't think that's your problem plus and not sure on this the cam belt change is difficult if you don't have the correct tools.
My guess is it's a HCV or heater control panel problem.
Barry
First thing, the leak at the right hand side of the head. If the 1.4 is like the 1.7 the largest pipe coming out of the casing tends to weep almost as if the hose is slightly too big for the alloy outlet. If you buy the right size jubilee clip to replace the spring clip Ford put on and clean off the pipe outlet as it will be all furred up it will do a better job of sealing. (TBH it's easier to clean the stub with the casing off the car so if you do you will need a new gasket from Ford.
As for the water pump in 99% of cases when they fail they end up leaking water so I don't think that's your problem plus and not sure on this the cam belt change is difficult if you don't have the correct tools.
My guess is it's a HCV or heater control panel problem.
Barry
Hi Barry, you're spot on regarding the furred up pipe but alas I think the ford spring type hose clip has cut into the hose to the point of near failure. I'll take your advice on cleaning up the outlet and replacing the clip with a proper jubilee but I'm probably going to have to cut the damaged part of the hose off with a sharp blade and see if I can jiggle and pull what's left of it onto the outlet before I tighten it all up. And then get a new hose on order. Unfortunately I live in the back end of nowhere so must keep the car operational at all times. So long as the hose was long enough to start with I may just get away with it.
I'm on nights this week and my tea breaks over so I'd best get back but I'll let you know how I get on.
...so SKF it is then. Its time to click "buy", cheers for the heads up.
I'm on nights this week and my tea breaks over so I'd best get back but I'll let you know how I get on.
...so SKF it is then. Its time to click "buy", cheers for the heads up.
Managed to get it done at the weekend, you were right about the hose appearing to be too big for the outlet, not exactly what I'd call a tight fit. I went with my plan to cut the worn out end of the hose off before putting it all back together with a new jubilee clip, I also cleaned up the top hose mounting too but chose not to cut that back as it looked okay. The hardest part of the whole job was getting the old clips off, followed by the cleaning up, I didn't have a new gasket so I did it with the casing still attached to the head but I'm pleased to report its now leak free & looking much cleaner.
Incidently I replaced the HCV with a genuine ford part a couple of weeks back so I do at least get cold air through the vents now when the heater controls turned down whereas before it was always hot, but now I only get hot air when the revs are up.
Its a bleeding issue isn't it...
...common to fiestas as well as pumas so they say. My local mechanic rekons lifting the front of the car up before topping up helps the coolant flow into the heater matrix better. I'll give it a go this weekend while I'm rummaging about underneath replacing a bent wishbone.
I'll have to hold tight on the cam belt till my second hand Haynes manual turns up from amazon. It cost 26p plus pp by the way. Its obviously the fiesta one but they had the same engine.
Incidently I replaced the HCV with a genuine ford part a couple of weeks back so I do at least get cold air through the vents now when the heater controls turned down whereas before it was always hot, but now I only get hot air when the revs are up.
Its a bleeding issue isn't it...
...common to fiestas as well as pumas so they say. My local mechanic rekons lifting the front of the car up before topping up helps the coolant flow into the heater matrix better. I'll give it a go this weekend while I'm rummaging about underneath replacing a bent wishbone.
I'll have to hold tight on the cam belt till my second hand Haynes manual turns up from amazon. It cost 26p plus pp by the way. Its obviously the fiesta one but they had the same engine.
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Anton
As I said before if your water pump is not leaking I'm 99.99% sure that's not causing your lack of heater control the most likely culprit being the HCV or the heater control panel. Also if you are intending to change the cam belt you will need special tools to hold the crank pulley so you can reach the required torque on the holding bolt.
Barry
As I said before if your water pump is not leaking I'm 99.99% sure that's not causing your lack of heater control the most likely culprit being the HCV or the heater control panel. Also if you are intending to change the cam belt you will need special tools to hold the crank pulley so you can reach the required torque on the holding bolt.
Barry
Thanks for your advice Barry, I've read a few posts regarding the HCV and control panel issues and to be fair I lack the electrical diagnostic know how to deal with that one, thankfully summers coming so think I can live with it for now. Getting back to the cam belt however I remember years ago changing the head gasket on a MK 1 Toyota mr2 with the engine in situ and came across the same problem of holding the crankshaft still to undo the pulley bolt. I opted to put the car in gear with the handbrake on and found that was enough to get the required torque necessary to shift it, surely I could adopt a similar technique with the front drive puma and achieve similar results simply by wedging the footbrake down with something. Its unorthodox I know but unless I can get hold of the suitable tool it may be my only option. I'd need to get a camshaft locking tool anyway(not that I'd use it to hold the crankshaft), perhaps the other tool is also readily available. Thankfully though the "zetec se" is a much simpler lump to work on than the highly praised 1.7 unit. I believe they have woodruff keys. Or at least that's what I'm hoping. Other than that, stripping down the belt end of the engine would give me a nice opportunity to get on with a bit of detailing. I like a nice clean engine and the pumas bay's is one of the better looking ones.
Ps, I just checked out your project pics. Very impressed with the standard of work, and its nice to see what pumas look like underneath without all the plumbing and suspension. I'm going to show the welder them and if he can get close to it I'll be happy.
Ps, I just checked out your project pics. Very impressed with the standard of work, and its nice to see what pumas look like underneath without all the plumbing and suspension. I'm going to show the welder them and if he can get close to it I'll be happy.
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Anton
Thanks for your comments on my thread
No even the 1.4 engine has no woodruff keys and the force required to tighten the crank pulley is such that with the backlash on the engine and box would make it hard to measure the 90 deg required. When I did the cambelt on mine I had all the special tools to lock the bottom pulley and it still required a 4ft scaffold pole with all my weight behind it to tighten it up. For loosening the bolt I had the pulley locked with the special tools and a trolley jack underneath the breaker bar and the car started lifting before the bolt came loose. that's how tight it is/needs to be.
Barry
Thanks for your comments on my thread
No even the 1.4 engine has no woodruff keys and the force required to tighten the crank pulley is such that with the backlash on the engine and box would make it hard to measure the 90 deg required. When I did the cambelt on mine I had all the special tools to lock the bottom pulley and it still required a 4ft scaffold pole with all my weight behind it to tighten it up. For loosening the bolt I had the pulley locked with the special tools and a trolley jack underneath the breaker bar and the car started lifting before the bolt came loose. that's how tight it is/needs to be.
Barry
Thanks for the info Barry, very valuable. Damn, no woodruff! Maybe a reputable garage is the way to go then, I was kind of hoping to keep costs down but perhaps it was false economy. I had a chuckle when you described the trolley jack/breaker bar technique, that's precisely how we did it on the MR2, first the car started to lift then things got a bit tense followed by a bang!! and it loosened. Trying to get the pulley off soon wiped the smile off our faces. We didn't use a breaker bar though, we did it with one of those cheap semi plastic socket sets from Argos, needless to say we weren't expecting it to work but it did, it was a while ago and after phoning both the dealer and the owners club they both said just getting the head off was an engine out job, but we did it in sit. How easy are the tools to get hold of? are they pricey? Even Alfa cam tools can be had cheap now through club support. Its just that I'd rather spend the garage fees on welding.
Anton
Anton
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Anton
The tools now are hard to get and pricey but some members on here take the engines out and use a flywheel locking tool to lock the engines from the other end but then you have to hold the engine steady whilst putting the enormous torque on the crank pulley. Whereabouts are you anyway, if you are near to me you can borrow mine but I'm not posting them?
The timing tools are cheap and easy with a Laser set costing about £13 but they are strictly timing tools and not locking tools.
The other thing I thought of is that you can replace the water pump if necessary without touching the timing belt and isn't the 1.4 engine a 100,000 mile belt change interval?
Barry
The tools now are hard to get and pricey but some members on here take the engines out and use a flywheel locking tool to lock the engines from the other end but then you have to hold the engine steady whilst putting the enormous torque on the crank pulley. Whereabouts are you anyway, if you are near to me you can borrow mine but I'm not posting them?
The timing tools are cheap and easy with a Laser set costing about £13 but they are strictly timing tools and not locking tools.
The other thing I thought of is that you can replace the water pump if necessary without touching the timing belt and isn't the 1.4 engine a 100,000 mile belt change interval?
Barry
Thanks for the offer Barry, I'm near lands end, end of the line some say.
Yeah the belts were quoted as good for 100,000/10years. Mines up to 80k but alas its been nearly 20 years since it left the line and I can't remember seeing any evidence in the service book to indicate it having been done. I'll check tomorrow and let you know.
Anton
Yeah the belts were quoted as good for 100,000/10years. Mines up to 80k but alas its been nearly 20 years since it left the line and I can't remember seeing any evidence in the service book to indicate it having been done. I'll check tomorrow and let you know.
Anton
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Anton
Yeah, if it's the original at 20yrs old it definitely needs doing.
Barry
Yeah, if it's the original at 20yrs old it definitely needs doing.
Barry
Cam belt update.
Ended up dropping it off at a local mechanic near St Austell, the guys been a Ford man since working at Dagenham back in the sixties so I figured I'd found the right place. He allocated the work to a local mobile mechanic who set about replacing the cam belt and tensioner, followed by the water pump and auxiliary belt before replacing the coolant. Taking a look at the original parts they appeared to stand up well given their age and even though the water pump was seeping a little the plastic impeller blades looked in good shape, the new pumps the improved version with metal blades however.
I arranged to bring the car back the following week having discussed a welding plan with them and set off home.
The car drives nice, engine feels smooth and responsive. Now for the bodywork.
Ended up dropping it off at a local mechanic near St Austell, the guys been a Ford man since working at Dagenham back in the sixties so I figured I'd found the right place. He allocated the work to a local mobile mechanic who set about replacing the cam belt and tensioner, followed by the water pump and auxiliary belt before replacing the coolant. Taking a look at the original parts they appeared to stand up well given their age and even though the water pump was seeping a little the plastic impeller blades looked in good shape, the new pumps the improved version with metal blades however.
I arranged to bring the car back the following week having discussed a welding plan with them and set off home.
The car drives nice, engine feels smooth and responsive. Now for the bodywork.
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