top nuts.

Hi On a 99 1.4 how do you reach the rear shock top nuts please.

You have to remove the rear seats and then remove the interior quarter panels then remove the bracket that covers the tops of the suspension turrets.

quest63 said:

You have to remove the rear seats and then remove the interior quarter panels then remove the bracket that covers the tops of the suspension turrets.

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Ok thanks. Just had a little explore.
In mine there is a "cupboard in the nearside boot side carpet which looks big enough to get to the nut.
On the offside the carpet pulls back to give the same limited access.
I presume the rear seats fold forward as the are held by a catch. Do you know how to release this catch, is it something to do with the small slits either side of the back seat near the seatbelt apeture.

Hi, amazing wot you find. Just found the two knobs that drop the seat.
I think the side carpets will bend down far enough to gat at those pesky nuts.

There are knobs located on the inside of the boot on the rear panel one on each side. Pull them both

The two grey pullers at the back of the boot, near the lights releases the rear seat.

How come you need to get to these nuts?

It will prove a REAL squeeze through the gap..

There is a cable release for each side in the boot, either side of the boot lock.
That releases the rear seat back rest.
But you do have to remove the seats and rear quarter panels to get to the bolts that hold the rear seat belts in place.

trublustu said:

The two grey pullers at the back of the boot, near the lights releases the rear seat.

How come you need to get to these nuts?

It will prove a REAL squeeze through the gap..

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Hi, fitting two new rear shocks.
Did the same job on an MGTF recently, very similar access.

hahaha, I remember it taking me a few head scratching moments to work out how to drop the back seats. Weirdest place to put those release pullers ever!.

When I replaced my shocks (well, Chris Tye off here did them for me), he managed it with a bent spanner, so nothing needed removing.

Hi I ordered the bent spanner yesterday, I think it's do-able.

I found that 10 mins removing the trim was better than inching the nut off and on in an enclosed space to be honest. You also need to be able to get a tool on the pushrod to stop it spinning with the nut so more room the better! Guide here - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=21066

john & Jake the dog said:

Hi I ordered the bent spanner yesterday, I think it's do-able.

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Just to be anorak-y they are called cranked spanners.

TGPlayer1 said:

john & Jake the dog said:

Hi I ordered the bent spanner yesterday, I think it's do-able.

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Just to be anorak-y they are called cranked spanners.

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I always liked 'swan necked'.

If I remember correctly the bent spanner used on mine was exactly that...a bent spanner, not an offset/swan neck one :lol:

yippeekiay said:

If I remember correctly the bent spanner used on mine was exactly that...a bent spanner, not an offset/swan neck one :lol:

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Ah, the tool you damage but think 'it'll come in handy for something' coz you can't bear to throw tools away!

Precisely :thumbs:

The Arch Bishop said:

I found that 10 mins removing the trim was better than inching the nut off and on in an enclosed space to be honest. You also need to be able to get a tool on the pushrod to stop it spinning with the nut so more room the better! Guide here - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=21066

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Hi, don't like disturbing trim panels. No good will ever come of it. They will rattlle and drive you mad.

Just had a go with my new bent, swan necked, cranked spanner and it took three minutes to remove the top nut.
Mole grips on the pushrod in the wheel arch, turn nut till mole grips jam and away you go. Lemon squeezy.

Just as a word of caution, gripping the shaft (ahem) can damage the surface and cause problems with the seal on the damper. Not that I'm Buzz Killington or anything but ya know.

TGPlayer1 said:

Just as a word of caution, gripping the shaft (ahem) can damage the surface and cause problems with the seal on the damper. Not that I'm Buzz Killington or anything but ya know.

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Hi, yes I agree but as I am fitting two new shocks it doesn't matter.
If I had any difficulty tightening the new top nuts then I would have gripped the shaft at the highest point in the wheel arch as that part of the rod probably does not go down into the seal.
Anyway all done now two shiny new shocks on the back.
I hope all the future jobs are that easy.

Yes in your case it's fine but it's just for general info. k:

A lot of jobs on the Puma are very easy, they are quite simply assembled and as long as things aren't seized most jobs can be done with simple tools and some grunt.