Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

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Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

Post by raggamuffin » Mon Jun 10, 2019 6:35 pm

I feel like owning the Puma is similar to those Top Gear specials, before the trio moved to the Grand Tour. Driving a car with all sorts of issues, that you still find truly endearing to own.

On another note, what could be causing the heater to fail to produce much cold air? I think the A/C needs regassing, but I find when I put the interior fans on (without A/C active), the fans blow hot air for a minute or so before getting colder. They never blow cold air unless the outside temperature is cold, it's always semi-warm.

Ed
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Post by Van_Dammesque » Mon Jun 10, 2019 6:44 pm

Mine is the same, only when doing 70 mph and it is mild-ish does it feel cool! :lol:
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Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

Post by raggamuffin » Mon Jun 17, 2019 12:56 pm

Judder is getting worse. Happening at higher revs/speeds now. If this MAF sensor and disconnecting battery/resetting ECU doesn't fix it, I'm going to have to go to a Ford garage to get them to run diagnostics and let me know what else I need to throw money at.

Brake judder and ABS/Traction lights are still intermittent too. So that's more money no doubt on sensors or fixing a wiring issue.

Car still likes to stall when coming to a stop in traffic when the engine RPM dips below it's idling line. Car continues to randomly creek at slow speeds and when this occurs I know the ABS judder will happen when I apply the brakes too.

Now a bulb/LED on the dashboard is flickering on and off intermittently too

I genuinely haven't been able to fully enjoy the car since getting it back due to these persistent issues. I really am set at selling the car at this point. Get the last of the parts fitted - clutch, MAF, struts, door cards. Then get the arches fixed early July and then sell it - there's no doubt in my mind at this point, the car has to go.

This project from start to finish has been an expensive disaster and I'm well and truly at breaking point now. What's troubling is that I don't really have a hope of getting much money for the car unless I can get these issues fixed.

Anyways, if anyone is interested in taking this car off me once I've had the last of the parts fitted, then PM me.

Ed
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Previous vehicles: Puma 1.7, MK I Focus LX, Celerio, Fiesta ST180, C4 VTS Coupe, Puma 1.7, Saab 9-5 2.3, Puma 1.7, Pug 206, Mk II Clio, Intruder 125cc, Pug 206.

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Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

Post by raggamuffin » Mon Jun 17, 2019 5:46 pm

Updated the for sale post:

viewtopic.php?f=29&t=32835&p=373314#p373314

It's alarming how I didn't realise how many issues the car still had until I came to actually write them all down.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Jun 17, 2019 7:14 pm

I guess it's never too late in the project for a little DIY, especially with the RPM judder getting even worse. So I decided I might as well fit the new Ford MAF myself on my lunch break. Borrowed some tools from the workshop above our office. The swap was straightforward enough. I've disconnected the battery for an hour as well to reset the ECU. Found this on another post on this forum from user called YOG:

Ford Technical:
After reconnecting battery, engine should be allowed to idle for 3 minutes, as stored idle and drive values contained within the powertrain control module have been lost. This may cause a driveability concern if the following is not carried out.

Once engine reaches normal operating temperature, revs should be increased to 1,200rpm and maintained for approximately 2 minutes. This will allow powertrain control module to relearn idle values. For powertrain control module to complete its learning strategy, vehicle should be driven for approximately 5 miles of varied driving.



So i'll try that once I reconnect the battery. I hope and pray that this fixes the rough idling and low RPM judder. Otherwise there's no more sensors to replace, and I'm going to be sincerely stumped on what to do next.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:19 pm

Seems to have helped the rough idling quite considerably. I drove it up and down the road for 5 mins or so.

Idling dips, IAV catches and it goes back to a smooth idle.

I'll do various driving on the way home, get the ECU up to speed and i'll keep you posted. I don't want to count my chickens yet, but if the low rpm judder is gone too, this could be 2 of the original issues fixed, and if that's the case - I can't even begin to say how relieved I am.

Ed
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Post by st220kyle » Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:25 pm

Hopefully you've done it, it's quite rewarding repairing faults on your own car. I would of thought you could do the door cards yourself too. There's always going to be things you need an expert for but why don't you see what you can do yourself? It might make you feel a bit more positive about the car and what you've achieved.
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:38 pm

raggamuffin wrote:
Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:19 pm
Seems to have helped the rough idling quite considerably. I drove it up and down the road for 5 mins or so.

Idling dips, IAV catches and it goes back to a smooth idle.
I am fully aware of the TIS recommendation, but it was written with service (as a job) for making money and saving time. I have found the best way of relearning the ECU is to let it idle until it cycles through two fan activations and between the first and second adding some strain on the engine (switching the lights, cabin blower, A/C on and off until all the combos have been tried with the final one with all on). That way you will have rock steady idling values programmed in.
This procedure is for sure better but it takes more time than the TIS recommendation. Anyway, you are there :wink:
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:46 pm

I did the procedure they recommended first and then I did what you suggested with the lights, A/C and blower etc. Then spent 5 mins going up and down the road near where I work.

I'll let you know how it goes on the drive home. Justin rang me immediately after I text him saying what I'd done. Big relief for both of us to be fair. I really hope this puts an end to this idling/juddering fiasco.

Then at least I can enjoy driving the car without having to constantly adjust my speed to prevent the car from acting up.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Jun 17, 2019 11:01 pm

I kept driving to provoke the judder and it didn't happen. I'm still struggling to believe it could actually be fixed...

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Jun 18, 2019 6:33 am

raggamuffin wrote:
Mon Jun 17, 2019 11:01 pm
I kept driving to provoke the judder and it didn't happen.
:thumbs:
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Jun 19, 2019 3:09 pm

I've driven around 40 miles since the reset.

Judder is back. Poor idling is back.

Well, unless anyone can recommend another sensor or thing to check - I think I'm about done.

Ed
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Post by Van_Dammesque » Wed Jun 19, 2019 3:44 pm

Sticking throttle cable, clutch position switch? Dirty injectors?
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Jun 19, 2019 4:06 pm

Dirrrtty injectors.

Hmm. I'll ask J to check these. On a brighter note I interviewed for a new job today and got the job. I'm leaving my current one in 2 weeks time. :grin:

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Post by Van_Dammesque » Wed Jun 19, 2019 10:15 pm

raggamuffin wrote:
Wed Jun 19, 2019 4:06 pm
Dirrrtty injectors.

Hmm. I'll ask J to check these. On a brighter note I interviewed for a new job today and got the job. I'm leaving my current one in 2 weeks time. :grin:

Ed
You could take a risk and insert some redex cleaner?! (Risk because it is not good for the nicisil (sp!) coatings of the engine.
Although once or twice every couple of years hasn't seem to hurt it!
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Post by red » Thu Jun 20, 2019 8:37 am

Good luck in your new job 8-)
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Post by XAF » Thu Jun 20, 2019 9:10 am

At the risk of being controversial, is it worth taking it to a specialist? J sounds like he knows how to spanner, but not sure he totally understands all the workings of a Puma and the various little quirks they have, especially on a modified one... just a thought.
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Thu Jun 20, 2019 9:36 am

How are your contacts on MAF connector? That would be my prime point of suspicion. Since the replacement brough an improvement, it could be that resistance at connecting point is too big. Just a thought. I mean, you have replaced almost everything electric so the components should be ok...?
Did you replace the clutch switch under the steering column? That is known to cause idling problems...
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Post by raggamuffin » Thu Jun 20, 2019 1:33 pm

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies, I appreciate all the advice and support during this project. J rang yesterday and reassured me not to give up on the car. He said he knows a guy who he can borrow a Ford diagnostic tool from. He said he'd like the car for longer, but now that I'm starting a new job my July holiday has been cancelled. This means J can't have any longer than a weekend to work on the car. In fact, it probably means the bodywork can't be done for the forseeable future too. Or the clutch. At this point it may have to be sold with the parts that still need fitting.

As for a specialist or further parts to potentially buy/replace. At this point I'm struggling to justify spending any more money.

Got the car for £550. The rebuild went 3 times over my initial budget and an 11 month delay. I figured the rebuild would be a strong foundation for a car that I'd keep for a long time. Since getting it back it's been riddled with problems that didn't exist before the rebuild. I'm not sure where I'm at this point, but I've spent at least 10 times more than the car was originally bought for.

Trying to fix the judder and idling alone has cost me over £600 in sensors and over £400 in labour. At this point, everything I'm attempting isn't working and it's hard to keep going. Just how much more time and money will it take? Even if the car was running perfectly, it's not practical enough to keep long term.

I can't keep throwing money at this. Realistically I could spend thousands more and still not iron out all the problems. I have to be realistic at this point. This project hasn't gone my way - not once. I don't want to admit defeat, but I think it's time to throw in the towel. Again, if anyone is interested in taking this car/project on - let me know in a PM. I'll be looking to sell in the next few weeks.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Thu Jun 20, 2019 3:40 pm

£1500 - PM me if interested. I live near Peterborough.

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Post by raggamuffin » Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:43 pm

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Post by raggamuffin » Fri Jun 21, 2019 11:18 am

Bought a VW Polo 1.2 E. 60bhp. 0-60 in 16.5 seconds.

Kill me now.

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Fri Jun 21, 2019 7:22 pm

So sad... :'(
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Post by raggamuffin » Fri Jun 21, 2019 8:26 pm

It is, but I just can't keep going at this point. I've never had so much bad luck with a car before, or spent so much trying to fix one.

Had some of the issues been fixed I think I might have reconsidered. But since I got it back the only 2 problems that have genuinely been fixed is the heatshield rattle and the coolant leak.

After spending over £1000 and the judder and idling is getting worse, not better. I don't like admitting defeat, but ever since the delays began with J working on the car, things have been going from bad to worse.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Fri Jun 21, 2019 8:51 pm

To be honest, looking on ebay I think I'm going to struggle to get £1500. There's one for £1250 which has more mods and is working fine. One for £950 with 59k on the clock and a custom wrap/colour.

I thought I was feeling bad when I decided to give up on the project, but this is above and beyond.

Ed
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