Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

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Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

Post by raggamuffin » Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:56 pm

On a side note - is there anywhere that sells headlight seals for the upper part of the headlight? Mine are sagging. J said it could be glued back on and one of the lights looks like it had been repaired in the past.

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:15 pm

raggamuffin wrote:
Tue Apr 09, 2019 6:56 pm
On a side note - is there anywhere that sells headlight seals for the upper part of the headlight? Mine are sagging. J said it could be glued back on and one of the lights looks like it had been repaired in the past.

Ed
All is written. You just need to search for it.... viewtopic.php?f=13&t=31290&p=369317&hil ... rs#p369317
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Post by raggamuffin » Tue Apr 09, 2019 8:34 pm

Replied to thread. Hopefully it's still going ahead.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Tue Apr 09, 2019 11:14 pm

I might go for the clutch release bearing as a cheaper and hopefully successful means of fixing the gearbox rattle. That, along with the driveshaft seal I got today, and maybe the gearbox issues will be fixed.

Lambda arrived today and i'll ask J to check the VSS when he does the other work on Wednesday.

The leak/puddle was smaller today, but it seems weird that it's dripping from various places. I wonder if the coolant hose is still leaking.

Do these look right for the clutch release?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw ... g&_sacat=0

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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 10, 2019 1:57 pm

I just had a thought - the oil leak seems to have coincided with when J had to adjust the gearbox to sort out the issue I was having getting the gearstick into 1st gear. I also have asked him if he filled it with 75W-90 otherwise this could be causing the leak.

However, J did say at the time the gearbox seemed quite oily underneath. Maybe it had been leaking since the rebuild and I never noticed. Which could mean it was overfilled?

Anyways, I'm going to get J to finish up the work next Wednesday for lambda, struts, door cards and cold air induction. After that I'll have a word with the old mechanic I used to use.

On a cold start, if I don't rev the engine it'll stall. When I let go of the accelerator coming up to junctions - it'll stall. It's a pain to be honest, and quite dangerous having to try and brake and accelerate whilst in neutral to keep the car going.

Anyways, windscreen has just been fitted and looks lovely. We've got the MOT tomorrow. Hopefully this tester is as lenient as the guy said. I'll ask him to clean up the transmission case before the test and advise them that I've bought the driveshaft seal but we think it's been overfilled. Might work?

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 10, 2019 4:37 pm

Well it was filled with 75W-90. So I've queried if the leak is due to overfilling, when the leaking should stop.

UPDATE: He said it'll stop leaking when the fluid level is correct.

Regarding the gearbox rattle, this looks like the right clutch CSC but can someone please confirm? Mine's a 2001 reg.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-PUMA-1- ... #vi-ilComp

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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Wed Apr 10, 2019 5:43 pm

raggamuffin wrote:
Wed Apr 10, 2019 1:57 pm
On a cold start, if I don't rev the engine it'll stall. When I let go of the accelerator coming up to junctions - it'll stall. It's a pain to be honest, and quite dangerous having to try and brake and accelerate whilst in neutral to keep the car going.
OK, this is new diagnosis and this points to IAV (Idle Air Valve).
Image

Image

Most likely it is clogged solid. You can try cleaning it by brake cleaner and using some old rags and see if it improves things. Try avoiding the brake cleaner getting to the electric side where is connector. If you clean it most likely it will start operating again and sort out your idleing issues. Maybe the connector is not connected?
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:18 pm

Going by the picture I can't locate this. I've asked Chris at LMS if this and the VSS have to be relocated due to the LMS intake manifold. Because I've looked long and hard in the engine bay and going by the pictures on the VSS and IAV and they're definitely not where they are on the standard engine bay. I'll make a video and put it on YouTube as it could shed some light on things, maybe you can point them out if you spot them in the video?

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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:25 pm

IAV has to be somewhere on inlet manifold downstream of the throttle butterfly.

VSS is on top of gearbox and can't be relocated anywhere. But now that you have said this about cold start and not idleing at all, this is almost 100% IAV that is clogged and seized.
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:28 pm

Decided to text Chris @ LMS and he said idle speed motor is on the underside of inlet manifold and not in standard position. No speedo changes to fit manifold. He queried if it's on standard map, what throttle body and what cams. Just waiting on a reply now.

If the IAV is on the underside of the inlet manifold I'd need to jack the car up? Does the Puma come with a jack as standard? Need to rummage through the boot I guess. There's still the old inlet manifold and cams in there so I'll need to get rid of those before I can check to see if there's a jack.

UPDATE: Chris @ LMS said it shouldn't be doing this on LM2 cams and to check it on diagnostics to see what's happening. :| He said everything you said to check though too: idle motor, lambda, clogged throttle body, cam timing issue or air flow meter.

Thing is, I know things could be checked for connections or cleaned as a temp solution. But I'm rather tempted to just bite the bullet and get all these parts new so I know they're all good. I know the throttle body is fine. I just hope it's one of these parts and not the timing issue.

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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 10, 2019 6:54 pm

New MAF and IAV ordered. Money money money.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 10, 2019 7:33 pm

If all else fails and none of this works, i'll take it to LMS and get Chris to sort out the timing.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:02 pm

Brief review of what the Puma is like after the engine rebuild along with sports cams and inlet manifold along with other assorted nonsense and the usual hyperactive, stupid voices I do in my own company or around friends.



Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Thu Apr 11, 2019 2:27 pm

MOT sorted. Also found someone who'll fit all the parts. Highly recommended mechanic who works for an extremely fair price.

I'm getting him to fit whatever parts arrive tomorrow and the rest next week. That means J only has to fit the door cards and struts.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:46 pm

Roughly £30 per 1% increase in bhp.
56749270_108029130389144_8318346024414347264_n.jpg
A bargain at any price.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:59 pm

Now that the MOT is over and done with and eBay says most of the parts to fix the judder will arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping Saturday is the next big step in having a smooth operator of a car.

The old mechanic I used to use when I lived at my parents is back to work on Monday. I think I'll ask him to do the clutch slave cylinder one morning before work and hopefully that'll fix the last of the gearbox issues.

Smokey said 3-4 weeks potentially until he's ready for a new car to work on. Currently working on a ricer MX-5 which the owner had in hot pink with glitter in the paint. Vile looking thing in our opinion, which the owner considered to be a show car. It had a garish body kit, wide track, colossal alloys, stickers everywhere, 1 frayed bucket seat, a questionable steering wheel design,weird leopard print, blue and pink coloured tape that was stuck on a front strut brace and half of a door card, along with a gear knob that looked like a plastic handle from a screw driver except it had no colour, but was the size of a half pint glass. Utterly bizarre tastes - but at the end of the day, a car enthusiast. So you know what? Fair play to her. Smokey - having worked on a Porsche motorsport team (saw some awesome old photos of his), said he wasn't a fan of the car in no uncertain terms.

Speaking of odd colour choices - i'll admit the colour on my LMS inlet manifold wasn't what I was expecting, and yet it might work in the engine bay. Reminiscent of the green the puma came in which is probably what model it came from:
download.jpg
I think the Puma looks sleak in silver and once the arches have new metal in them and are waxoyled I think the car will look very tidy. I toyed with the idea of getting exterior modifications done, but I don't want to draw unnecessary attention to the car. The looks are striking enough.

I was thinking of getting new anti roll bars and wishbones when I eventually get the poly bushings. I'm tempted by coil overs if I could get them properly set up along with the wheels aligned and possibly wheel spacers. Nothing drastic, but if I can get the handling sharpened and setup properly for a fast road driving style I think it'd heighten the experience. That's not to say the Puma doesn't add a lot of confidence to corners in it's standard form - because it really excels in that department.

J said he'd do the engine cover in black. I think the struts are red, so I might ask to have those recoloured. I'm sort of tempted to try a similar colour as the inlet manifold to see if I can make the 2 colours work a little better if there engine feels more dichromatic.
56563269_2318360065100101_6844078056018018304_n.jpg
Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:22 am

raggamuffin wrote:
Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:46 pm
Roughly £30 per 1% increase in bhp.

56749270_108029130389144_8318346024414347264_n.jpg

A bargain at any price.

Ed
All that will increase with the mushroom in the picture is noise, I am affraid :roll:
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Post by red » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:31 am

Everyone loves some induction noise right? :grin:

Cone filters are a long debated subject as is whether to keep it in half of the original air box or not?..does it actually let warmer air in to the engine? I think it's just personal preference at the end of the day.
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Post by raggamuffin » Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:56 am

Can the original box stay in place with the K&N pipe and filter installed?

Bought a new coolant header tank as well as J said one of the fittings had snapped. He said he'd just cable tie it, but I want as many new bits on the car as possible.

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Post by YOG » Fri Apr 12, 2019 11:24 am

raggamuffin wrote:
Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:59 pm
.......... The old mechanic I used to use when I lived at my parents is back to work on Monday. I think I'll ask him to do the clutch slave cylinder one morning before work and hopefully that'll fix the last of the gearbox issues.........
Ed
You do realise that the gearbox needs to be taken off to fit the CVC? If the clutch has done 10,000+ miles, I would look to at least replace the clutch plate whilst it's off.
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Haynes Fiesta Manual (3397) answers a lot of your questions: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5259"

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Post by raggamuffin » Fri Apr 12, 2019 1:23 pm

I think i'll wait to fit the CVC until next pay cheque. That way I can buy a stage 1 clutch off eBay and get them both fitted.

There's only a couple of drips now when the car has been parked overnight. I'm guessing this overfill of gearbox oil was indeed the cause.

All the bits to fix the judder have arrived, to be fitted tomorrow afternoon. Spoke to the guy and he said fitting all these plus the lambda shouldn't take too long. I got the oil filter and new 5l of oil, so I might get that done too, as by the time I've driven to his workshop on the weekend the car will be around 450 miles since the rebuild.

I can't believe it's not Christmas
Puma01.jpg
Puma02.jpg
Puma03.jpg
Puma04.jpg
Everything shiny shiny.

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Fri Apr 12, 2019 4:44 pm

Ed,

Replacing IAV - 5 min
Replacing VSS - 15 min (the battery and it's carrier have to go out)
Replacing MAF - 5 min
CV boot - that is a pig of a job as it is messy big time....

But the first 3 you can do on your own without problems...
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Post by raggamuffin » Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:03 pm

CV was just the clip mentioned in the MOT, but I figured I'd get the kit in case anything else looked like it needed doing.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Fri Apr 12, 2019 5:33 pm

Car's been parked up all day and I just checked - NO OIL LEAK.

It was a simple overfill. That's made me more relieved than it passing the MOT yesterday tbh.

Next stop - fix that judder tomorrow.

Ed
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Post by Van_Dammesque » Fri Apr 12, 2019 8:27 pm

Have you thought about the cone filter plus the FRP mod box as shown on these forums?
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