BOILING COOLANT
- Thread starter Joey186
- Start date
Help Support ProjectPuma:
The heating system in the mk4/5 fiesta and Puma are almost identical.
My old Puma had the same symptoms as yours, but my coolant wasn't bubbling, it was just getting hotter than usual and the temperature gauge went into the red even on fairly short journeys.
I changed my heater valve and problem solved.
If you're going to change your heater valve, used a genuine Ford item. The cheap eBay ones are utter rubbish.
Good luck.
My old Puma had the same symptoms as yours, but my coolant wasn't bubbling, it was just getting hotter than usual and the temperature gauge went into the red even on fairly short journeys.
I changed my heater valve and problem solved.
If you're going to change your heater valve, used a genuine Ford item. The cheap eBay ones are utter rubbish.
Good luck.
tractorboy
New member
Is the radiator getting fully up to temp? Feel the rad hoses; they should be very hot. If they are then the thermostat is probably opening OK.
Any sign of white smoke from the exhaust when it's hot? That could indicate a blown head gasket.
Bob
Any sign of white smoke from the exhaust when it's hot? That could indicate a blown head gasket.
Bob
Frank
Member
These threads might help -
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=25449&hilit=bypass" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=25905&hilit=hcv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You can also completely bypass the HCV by joining the 'In' and 'Out' hoses together with a hose connector and jubilee clips. I haven't done this, but I know for a fact that a few people here have done just that.
I would add that you'd have to be 100% certain that you really did have a HCV/Heater PCB problem before doing that as a last resort as the HCV plastic stubs would probably crumble/snap in taking off the hoses, even on a previously working HCV.
Certainly, I carry a hose connector and clips in my toolbox these days for exactly that purpose.
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=25449&hilit=bypass" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=25905&hilit=hcv" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You can also completely bypass the HCV by joining the 'In' and 'Out' hoses together with a hose connector and jubilee clips. I haven't done this, but I know for a fact that a few people here have done just that.
I would add that you'd have to be 100% certain that you really did have a HCV/Heater PCB problem before doing that as a last resort as the HCV plastic stubs would probably crumble/snap in taking off the hoses, even on a previously working HCV.
Certainly, I carry a hose connector and clips in my toolbox these days for exactly that purpose.
jimfrp88 said:
Hello Jim,
Thanks for the advice, i changed the HCV and it seemed to have an after market one already on there. I put a genuine part on and so far it seems to have worked. I went on a 30 min drive and it was perfect. Fingers crossed!
Joe
Frank said:
Hi Frank,
As above the HCV wasn't an original, i think that the original may have faulted before and they put a cheap after market one on which has again broken. I put a genuine one on, it seems to have fixed the problem.
Thanks for the help
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