Heater Matrix

Does anyone know if heater matrices are the same all the way through the 1.7 Puma range? I've just about stripped the scrapper I bought and sorting out what I need to keep. The heater matrix I've dug out is in great condition but it's out of an R reg non A/C Puma whereas my Puma is a 2001 with A/C. I know the radiators are different as I've compared them but it would be good if the matrices are the same.
Barry

There seem to be 2 for Pumas - Ford Part Nos. - 1011670 and 1113626 . Don't know what the differences are or when they changed over. Still, it's a start.

Cheers Nick, as you said it's a start. How's the work on yours going?

tuonokid said:

[post]357689[/post]How's the work on yours going?

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Fine, car's been running sweet. This coming weekend, I'm doing the special internal treatment on the sills and putting some new spark plugs in and that'll be about it for this year, I reckon.

Last week, I figured out a really good way to mount the sat nav that doesn't involve suckers on the windscreen (too far away to reach easily and reflects off the screen at night) or sticking it in an air vent (dreadful idea that). Works very well and it's removed in seconds and the car looks as it did before. I'll probably do a thread on sat nav stuff sometime.

Oh, I've got to spray my arch liners with Thompson's Water Seal - takes 10 minutes with a hand sprayer and it's 3 years since I did it last.

So..all good and nothing too taxing.

Hi Nick
So you got your welding done then? Are you going to take the seats and carpets out so you can remove the inner sill tape and make sure you can blather it everywhere?
That Thompsons water seal is that just a silicone liquid?
Be careful with that back!
Barry

tuonokid said:

[post]357699[/post]
So you got your welding done then?

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Yeah, that was done around a month back. It was only that 4 inch burst on the rear of that nearside outer sill and didn't cost much. More importantly, the guy did a very good neat job and then did the whole sill underseal line a bit higher and you'd never know it had been done.

Few days before that, I had taken care of that 'slight corrosion on rear chassis rails' advisory, myself. It was only slight, but that Dinitrol should have stopped all that. This time, I stripped back, 2 coats of Vactan and re-Dinitroled and cavity waxed the insides...and that is not going to happen again. Good stuff that Vactan - I've re-examind areas I've done using that 3 stage method on from a couple of years back - front wishbones - and they are as good as the day I did them.

tuonokid said:

[post]357699[/post] Are you going to take the seats and carpets out so you can remove the inner sill tape and make sure you can blather it everywhere?

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The inner and inner of the membrane sill have already been done with cavity wax, via the wiring loom holes. They'll be fine and just get engine oil at the bottom this time to creep into the seam. The rear of the outer sills were taken care of when I did the rear arches and were only showing surface rust anyway.

This time, it's outer sill and outer side of membrane sill - rear door cards off, YOG access the outer and then - spray Vactan whole length..allow to dry...spray cavity wax...allow to dry....inject in clean engine oil to creep into seams. That short front section, I'll just drill through and blanking plug afterwards. Not a hard job, but because of the drying time, the cards will be off a few days. They'll think twice about ever trying to rust on me after I've done with them.

tuonokid said:

[post]357699[/post] That Thompsons water seal is that just a silicone liquid?

Click to expand...

There's other stuff in it, but essentially, yes. Used to be solvent based, which made it useless on cars. These days, water-based and so ideal for those arch liners.