Fitted new battery - now it wont start

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YORKSHIRE LAD

New member
Joined
Aug 25, 2017
Messages
26
2001 1.7

Fitted a new battery today and also a new battery in the key.

Engine turning over fine but won't fire into life.

Programmed the key using the method of the 4 turns on and off from position 2 to 1 and then waiting for the beep, pressed one of the key buttons and the rear fog light switch lit for a few seconds. Removed the key, then tried again to start it with no joy.

Anybody got any ideas what else it might be?

The car started fine with a booster charger prior to fitting the new battery, so it is obviously something related to either the key or the new battery.

HELP PLEASE!!
 
That method is only for programming the central-locking remote, it should have no effect on the engine immobiliser. There is a totally different process to programme the transponder to the engine immobiliser.
I would first check for potential blown fuses, or fuel cut-off switch from when you replaced the battery.
 
Does it start with the booster attached now, have you checked the voltage of the new battery to ensure it's not a dud?
Are all the battery cables in good order, especially the one to the starter motor?

I also highly doubt it's the key. The transponders for the immobiliser are unaffected by a battery change. I've pulled the transponders out to fit them in new keys and they've still worked fine.
 
Yog - I'll try the fuel cut off switch first and see how I go.

Red - No I haven't tried it with the booster, but the engine is spinning over fine. I remember when I first turned the key after fitting the battery, the engine just started for a split second and then after that, it was just spinning and spinning with no sign of starting, so maybe it could be a fuel issue. I'll post again later once I've tried the fuel cut off and the booster method and see if either of those work.

Thanks for your help so far:)
 
YORKSHIRE LAD said:
[post]366207[/post] I remember when I first turned the key after fitting the battery, the engine just started for a split second and then after that,
This and the other symptoms suggest a blown fuse as likely. Certainly, that would be the best place to start looking.

Incidentally, fuses don't have to be removed to test them, you just put a beeping continuity meter across the metal tabs on the back of each fuse and a whole box of fuses takes only a minute or two to check.
 
UPDATE
I tried it with the booster but it made no difference.

The fuel cut off switch seems to be OK. I assume the red button should be pressed in when its working as this is how it is now. When I try and press it down further, its solid, so assume its pressed down as far as it will go. What I have noticed is that when I turn the ignition on, I cant hear the fuel pump whirring which I could before, so I am starting to think that it may be the pump that is the issue; maybe just a weird coincidence that this has developed a fault at the same time as the battery was replaced.
I have had the lid off the fuse box in the engine bay and all the larger fuses seem to be OK; is this where the fuse would be for the pump or do I need to look elsewhere in the car, or could it be a relay and if so which one? So many questions requiring answers!
More help please :?
 
Unplug the grey plug from the fuel cut off and run a wire battery live to the middle pin of the grey plug. Pump should run.

If you can't hear it and/or want to see actual fuel supply at the rail then unplug the white fuel line and run that to a container.
 
I'll check the fuse and relay and, if I cant get a result from that, I'll try the live wire method to check the power supply to the pump. It might have to be Saturday due to work and dark nights :-(

Thanks again for all the advice. It never fails to amaze me how much knowledge there is out there that people I have never met are prepared to share to help people like me who have limited knowledge about a particular problem.

I'll be back with an update in the next few days.
 
Hopefully sorted it!

The fuse had blown; replaced it and started first twist :grin:
Just hoping it was a coincidence that it was the fitting of the new battery that caused it to blow and not something more sinister, so i'll have to see if it pops again and, if so, investigate further.

Once again, thanks for all the advice.
 
YORKSHIRE LAD said:
[post]366223[/post] Hopefully sorted it!

The fuse had blown; replaced it and started first twist :grin:
Just hoping...
Good. :)

However, fuses don't blow because they just feel like it, it's a cause = effect type thing and if you just rely on hope then further down the line you'll likely be looking at fitting a replacement fuel pump (extremely tiresome to do yourself and extremely expensive (£400+ one guy paid!) for a garage to do for you)

Luckily, there is a very easy alternative route for you :

#1. Never have less than a ¼ of a tank of fuel in the car.
#2. Fit a new £10 fuel filter. It is likely/very possible a dirty fuel filter caused the pump to work harder, which in turn blew the fuse.

:)
 
Frank

Thanks for that advice, I'm planning to have the engine fettled by Chris Allison in the coming weeks; new belts , tensioner, seals etc. so I'll ask him to change the fuel filter as part of the work. Also noted about not letting the fuel level drop too low.
Cheers
 
UPDATE
Well, the day I was due to take the car down to Chris, the fuse blew again and it wouldn't start :x
Called the RAC and the guy banged the bottom of the tank a few times, replaced the fuse and it started first twist, but there was obviously some underlying fault so he followed me to my local independent mechanic who replaced the pump, fuel filter and fitted new petrol pipes, which he had to have made locally, so, hopefully the issue should now be resolved. He has also cut an inspection hole under the back seat and fitted a blanking plate to avoid having to remove the tank in future if we do have any further problems. I'll keep you posted.
 

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