Recent clutch change issue

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Coldcut

New member
Joined
Jun 26, 2016
Messages
96
I recently had a new clutch fitted,the LUK 3 piece which includes the release bearing etc.
The car has drove fine for the past few weeks when it was fitted but since 3 days ago,the clutch pedal sometimes has little travel,its spongy and then i struggle to change gear as the pedal dosen't feel correct,then it feels normal.
I took it back to the garage and they said it's probably the master cylinder and he said it looks like it has a small leak.
I couldn't really see any fluid leaking on the cylinder behind the clutch pedal apart from one moist spot on a bolt on the steering linkage which may be normal and may have been there for ages,i couldn't say if it was brake fluid or not.
He said it can sometimes put more pressure on the master cylinder when you have a new clutch fitted and that he had one in last week with the same problem and it was the master cylinder.
he said,its probably leaked down and it dosen't take much for the pedal to act like that.
I found it strange that ive driven 150,000 miles on the same clutch and the pedal was the same every single time but as soon as i have a new clutch fitted,within a few weeks,the pedal is normal then spongy with little travel making it hard to change gear sometimes.
I haven't lost any brake fluid to my knowledge as it appears full still.
Would the master cylinder suddenly go after a new clutch is fiited?
 
I would suspect many things will start failing given the age of the car and it maybe totally unrelated to changes recently made. :cry:
 
Not sure about the mechanics theory about new clutch putting more pressure on the master cylinder, possible maybe given weakening springs etc on the old clutch but if that was the case then everybody would fit a new master cylinder along with the new clutch, which of course nobody does.
Much more likely to be as above, simply coincidence and down to normal wear and tear due to age, after 150.00 miles seals are probably well past their best, new seal kit should fix the problem though a reconditioned cylinder may be a better option
 
Thanks for the replies.
I've got it booked in to have the master cylinder changed.
If by chance the problem still persists after the master cylinder has been changed, then would you say the clutch is at fault or not?
What else could it be?
 
if garage diagnosed fault with master cylinder and replacing it does not fix the problem, take it back to them
 
Just an update,
Had a new master cylinder fitted and the clutch is spot on now.
Just a question,
About a month ago or so,the car was making a loud noise which was i found was coming from the engine bay.
Took it to the garage and they said it sounds like the waterpump.
I got the waterpump,tensioner and aux belt changed and the car was better but the tickover sound of the car seems more noisey.
I don't know if it's because it's a new belt which may be tight compared to the old one and is putting extra stress on the pulleys or would you say they haven't done something right?
 
Wild E. Coyote said:
I would check the timing. It might be slightly off and one of symptoms is noisy engine

Thanks but the engine was quite before it had the items changed and the only noise that was originally there was coming from around the waterpump.
The timing belt didn't have to come off.
I'm going to get the timing belt changed in a few weeks, can anyone link me to one they have possibly bought themselves off ebay or elsewhere?
Don't want to get one that's not possible genuine or no good.
Thanks..
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GATES-TIMING-BELT-KIT-K035433XS-FIT-ON-FORD-PUMA-1-7-16V-ST160/172351707410?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
 
YOG said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GATES-TIMING-BELT-KIT-K035433XS-FIT-ON-FORD-PUMA-1-7-16V-ST160/172351707410?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
Thanks Yog, is that a good one to buy or should I look out for an genuine timing belt kit on ebay?
 
CherryVimto said:
You will be fine buying anything Gates....
Thanks.
Ive just come from the garage about the noise from my engine,they said it sounds 100% like the bearings in the alternator.

So im searching for a new alternator but the cheapest ive seen are lucas alternators at £100.
If anyones got a link to a new alternator cheaper,thanks.
Not looking for a used one.
 
Gates make the belts for Ford and are the best that you can get.
If you go to Fords and buy it from them , the belt will still have Gates on it, but it will have cost you more from the dealership.
Did they remove the new aux belt and spin the alternator to be certain? I ask because, there is also the auxiliary belt tensioner idler pulley that contains a bearing that often becomes noisy on engines of high mileage. Its fitted to the engine with a 10 mm bolt on the outside of the plastic timing cover. (It's available from Gates and has been improved since the original was fitted)
 
DOH said:
Gates make the belts for Ford and are the best that you can get.
If you go to Fords and buy it from them , the belt will still have Gates on it, but it will have cost you more from the dealership.
Did they remove the new aux belt and spin the alternator to be certain? I ask because, there is also the auxiliary belt tensioner idler pulley that contains a bearing that often becomes noisy on engines of high mileage. Its fitted to the engine with a 10 mm bolt on the outside of the plastic timing cover. (It's available from Gates and has been improved since the original was fitted)
Thanks,i will get the gates belt then.
No he put a spanner on top and it was vibrating,though i wouldn't know if that was normal.
He then listened with the spanner pressed on top then i did and it was making a noise that did sound the same as what i could hear from the engine bay.
I did have a new tensioner fitted with the aux belt,so do you mean that tensioner?
He did recommend having a new tensioner fitted with the belt.
Would it be a lot of trouble for them to remove the belt just to test and spin the alternator?
thanks..
 
Coldcut said:
[post]368231[/post] I did have a new tensioner fitted with the aux belt,so do you mean that tensioner?
Yes
Coldcut said:
[post]368231[/post] Would it be a lot of trouble for them to remove the belt just to test and spin the alternator?
Between 40 mins to 1hr labour to remove and refit.
With the mileage your cars done and assuming it's the original alternator , then it's likely that the front bearing behind the pulley is failing. It's a pity that noise wasn't there before the waterpump change, so that it could have been spun by hand without the belt.
If you need a replacement Alternator. Rather than buying new I would recommend contacting Ian G , he may well have one off a low mileage car that he can post out to you.

If you are about to change the timing belt, the vast majority of the above labour can be incorporated in the timing belt change plus then a further 20 minutes to change the alternator
 
Thanks for the reply Doh.
Yes it's the original alternator.
It makes me wonder if the garage switched my alternator and put a bad one on.
They would of had to remove it to access the waterpump?
Its annoying that you have a waterpump, Aux belt and new tensioner fitted and then within a few weeks I need a new alternator.
I did ask the garage if they could slip the belt off just to rule out the belt but he said you wouldn't be able to accurately diagnose like that because of how fast the belt spins.
He said he was 109% sure it was the bearings in the alternator and didn't recommend buying a used one.
He also guaranteed me that if he fitted a new alternator and the noise was still there, he would put my old alternator back on and i wouldn't he charged as i would have no intention of paying for a fault he diagnosed.
I can't see how having those 3 new parts would ruin the bearings in the alternator though?
Sorry I don't know Ian g?
Thanks..
 
Ebay do reconditioned units for around £50 with 12 month warranty, mine came from ebay 4 years ago, no problems at all
 
zinc2000 said:
Ebay do reconditioned units for around £50 with 12 month warranty, mine came from ebay 4 years ago, no problems at all
Thanks for the reply, as I need it quickly as it's really noisy, I'll bite the bullet and let the garage get one in so I can get it fitted possibly by Tuesday.
At least if the mechanic is wrong, I won't have to pay.
That's good news about your alternator.
I'm going to keep the one he takes off and possibly buy the bearings for it, if they don't cost to much.
 
A lot of suppliers request the old Alternator on an exchange basis , unless it's an outright purchase.
So he might not be able to retain it for you.

A noisy Alternator can be easily diagnosed by spinning by hand , if it's really bad the bearing might have play in it .

Ian G's contact details:
https://www.projectpuma.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=6902

Top bloke to deal with although he can be difficult to contact by phone as he is often either recovering a Puma(driving) or dismantling it.
email or Facebook him is often a good way to contact him.
 
Coldcut said:
[post]368240[/post] Thanks for the reply Doh.
He said he was 109% sure it was the bearings in the alternator

You can make a diagnosis yourself as it is really straightforward. Just take the largest screwdriver you have and lean the tip of it onto the housing of the alternator near pulley. Let the engine running and put the tip of the screwdriver onto the housing and lean your ear against the handle. So basically, your screwdriver becomes a stetoscope :wink:
If you hear a grinding sound as if something is going to tear apart every second, that is the sign that bearing has gone south.

I had the same problem and replaced the bearings. You can check it here: https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?t=26486&start=25
 

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