YOG
Well-known member
This took a lot longer to write than to fit them!!
Parts required, either:
Finis 1708796 x 2 - Ford dealer £2.44 each + VAT.
or
Finis 1708797 x 2 - Ford dealer £2.44 each + VAT. This one is heated!
Not rocket science which Finis to choose! I intend to wire mine in with the heated front screen operation at a later date.
Original and "Fan Spray" Jets:
Unbolt the black resonator box (now would be a good time to throw it away!) and then remove the under-bonnet felt by pulling out the plastic clips that hold it.
Resonator Box and Under-Bonnet Felt Removed:
Now you have access to the tubes leading to the jets.
I used a hairdrier to soften the tubing where it attaches to the jets, before pulling the tubing off.
Next, carefully (it's a bit fiddly), remove the jets from the bonnet. They are held in place under the bonnet by a little piece of "sprung" plastic at the headlight end of the jet (you can just see it in the following picture.
Jet Removed:
Either try and push this in the direction of the windscreen, whilst pushing the jet out the bonnet hole, or use a thin blade (very carefully) to slide under the jet on the outside of the bonnet. I used a small chisel, but placed thin card on the bonnet, with a thin metal plate on top to lever against. Once the jet starts lifting it's easy to slide the thin card further under the jet to help avoid any mishaps!
Bonnet Hole:
Old (unheated) and New (heated) Jets:
Once the jets are removed, if you are using the heated version, first feed the connector through the bonnet hole from the top, but don't press the jet in yet.
Next, I pushed the tubing up through the bonnet holes and used the hairdrier to soften the end. This makes it easier to push the tubing fully on and get a good seal.
Now, you just need to "click" the jets into the bonnet.
Old Jet Fitted:
New Jet Fitted:
Clip any loose tubing back into place, test the washers work and replace the under-bonnet felt (and resonator box, if you want to).
Note: The new jets have a removable rubber seal around them, which the originals do not. You definately need to leave this rubber seal on, otherwise it is loose in the bonnet hole.
15-09-2011
Just come back from the breakers.
I have collected two wiring harnesses, one from a Mondeo and the other from a Focus, both were obviously already fitted to heated jets ((old style twin sprays).
Difference in the two, the Mondeo is just wiring, whilst the Focus also has the washer tubing taped to it.
Both types have the electrical connectors already, so they will just click on the new jet connectors.
Had a quick look under the bonnet, and it appears that the Focus has similar spacing between the jet connectors as the Puma, whereas the Mondeo wiring connectors are further apart. I believe both will fit.
Then it's just a question of connecting live (fused) and earth to 2 wires.
21-11-2011
Finally got around to connecting up the electrics!!
Before I start, after much searching, it would appear that Ford Mondeo heated jets are on permanently with the engine running. Apparently this is OK, as they draw very little current.
This is obviously the simplest way, as it only requires connections to ignition live (preferably fused) and earth.
The downside of connecting the positive to either the front heated screen, or rear heated screen is that in freezing weather/fog, the wind chill can still freeze the jets if not permanently on. This would require you to keep switching the front screen on as the timer switches it off after only a few minutes, or, with the rear screen, leaving it on as it is not timed. Either way, both screens take considerable current.
I decide that I would have a separate switch, so this is how I did mine.
Firstly, I extended the wiring as required from the Mondeo/Focus connectors that attach to the heated jet connectors.
I then used some of the washer tubing/connectors from the Mondeo/Focus to re-route the existing washer tubing (trimming the under-bonnet felt as required). This was to expose the tubing to engine heat (rather than being between the felt and bonnet), to help prevent the actual pipes freezing:
Pictures before under-bonnet felt replaced:
Under the bonnet:
Fitted the relay and also a fuse (with warning LED) in the wiring to the heater jets:
The LED warning light will show if the fuse has gone, or heating circuit failed:
Inside the car:
Needed a switch, so used a front screen switch cover, and fitted it to a front fog light switch. This gives a green warning light, instead of the normal amber:
Whilst I had the dash surround out, I took the opportunity to swap the positions of the front and rear screen switches. I did this because the steering wheel rim masks the rear screen switch, and not being timed, can inadvertently be left on for long periods. Now the front screen switch is masked instead, but auto switches off after a few minutes:
Each switch has its own locating groove in the dash surround, but it’s simple to either Dremel, or file a new one and the switches still fit securely. You don’t need to remove the dash surround for this.
Finished:
10th December2011 - working at below 0 degrees centigrade:
True colour, taken with flash - before switching on:
Taken without flash - before switching on:
After swtching on and with the washer tubing/under-bonnet felt modifications:
Parts required, either:
Finis 1708796 x 2 - Ford dealer £2.44 each + VAT.
or
Finis 1708797 x 2 - Ford dealer £2.44 each + VAT. This one is heated!
Not rocket science which Finis to choose! I intend to wire mine in with the heated front screen operation at a later date.
Original and "Fan Spray" Jets:
Unbolt the black resonator box (now would be a good time to throw it away!) and then remove the under-bonnet felt by pulling out the plastic clips that hold it.
Resonator Box and Under-Bonnet Felt Removed:
Now you have access to the tubes leading to the jets.
I used a hairdrier to soften the tubing where it attaches to the jets, before pulling the tubing off.
Next, carefully (it's a bit fiddly), remove the jets from the bonnet. They are held in place under the bonnet by a little piece of "sprung" plastic at the headlight end of the jet (you can just see it in the following picture.
Jet Removed:
Bonnet Hole:
Old (unheated) and New (heated) Jets:
Once the jets are removed, if you are using the heated version, first feed the connector through the bonnet hole from the top, but don't press the jet in yet.
Next, I pushed the tubing up through the bonnet holes and used the hairdrier to soften the end. This makes it easier to push the tubing fully on and get a good seal.
Now, you just need to "click" the jets into the bonnet.
Old Jet Fitted:
Clip any loose tubing back into place, test the washers work and replace the under-bonnet felt (and resonator box, if you want to).
Note: The new jets have a removable rubber seal around them, which the originals do not. You definately need to leave this rubber seal on, otherwise it is loose in the bonnet hole.
15-09-2011
Just come back from the breakers.
I have collected two wiring harnesses, one from a Mondeo and the other from a Focus, both were obviously already fitted to heated jets ((old style twin sprays).
Difference in the two, the Mondeo is just wiring, whilst the Focus also has the washer tubing taped to it.
Both types have the electrical connectors already, so they will just click on the new jet connectors.
Had a quick look under the bonnet, and it appears that the Focus has similar spacing between the jet connectors as the Puma, whereas the Mondeo wiring connectors are further apart. I believe both will fit.
Then it's just a question of connecting live (fused) and earth to 2 wires.
21-11-2011
Finally got around to connecting up the electrics!!
Before I start, after much searching, it would appear that Ford Mondeo heated jets are on permanently with the engine running. Apparently this is OK, as they draw very little current.
This is obviously the simplest way, as it only requires connections to ignition live (preferably fused) and earth.
The downside of connecting the positive to either the front heated screen, or rear heated screen is that in freezing weather/fog, the wind chill can still freeze the jets if not permanently on. This would require you to keep switching the front screen on as the timer switches it off after only a few minutes, or, with the rear screen, leaving it on as it is not timed. Either way, both screens take considerable current.
I decide that I would have a separate switch, so this is how I did mine.
Firstly, I extended the wiring as required from the Mondeo/Focus connectors that attach to the heated jet connectors.
I then used some of the washer tubing/connectors from the Mondeo/Focus to re-route the existing washer tubing (trimming the under-bonnet felt as required). This was to expose the tubing to engine heat (rather than being between the felt and bonnet), to help prevent the actual pipes freezing:
Pictures before under-bonnet felt replaced:
Under the bonnet:
Fitted the relay and also a fuse (with warning LED) in the wiring to the heater jets:
The LED warning light will show if the fuse has gone, or heating circuit failed:
Inside the car:
Needed a switch, so used a front screen switch cover, and fitted it to a front fog light switch. This gives a green warning light, instead of the normal amber:
Whilst I had the dash surround out, I took the opportunity to swap the positions of the front and rear screen switches. I did this because the steering wheel rim masks the rear screen switch, and not being timed, can inadvertently be left on for long periods. Now the front screen switch is masked instead, but auto switches off after a few minutes:
Each switch has its own locating groove in the dash surround, but it’s simple to either Dremel, or file a new one and the switches still fit securely. You don’t need to remove the dash surround for this.
Finished:
10th December2011 - working at below 0 degrees centigrade:
True colour, taken with flash - before switching on:
Cool 
