how to flow your MAF!!!!!!!!!!!

the maf sensor sends a signal to the ecu to let it know how cold the air is....its a thin wire thats heated up & the voltage required to do this is detected and helps to fuel the engine....

(silly 'chips' can confuse the maf and ecu and you end up over fuelling your car which kills the bore liners and the cat converter.)

this guide is how to de-restrict the airflow through the maf to help the car breath better (same theory as adding a better air filter).

i will not say that you will gain power.....in case someone disagrees but my car does feel less 'restricted' now!!!!!!!!!

get a spare maf or take your off......

basically; anything that looks like its getting in the way of air passing through VERY quickly needs to be removed or smoothed. i used a dremel and a file. use sanding bobbins on the dremel; the stones are too tough and get easily clogged. you will need approx 10 sanding bobbin doodars

this is the mk1 version....still got the massive lump in the middle as i needed to experiment & i like to do a bit at a time rather than going mad & wondering why it didnt work! i have seen ones with the centre removed & i am doing this next but as mine is now it flows so much easier the car wouldnt idle for 2 weeks til the ecu adapted!

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all sharp edges, steps, lumps etc removed or smoothed....some argue that polishing the whole lot smooth will help but i am still experimenting....

mk2 version / 'for sale' version i am doing on the lathe. intake is chamfered to 30degrees, exhaust to 30 and 20 degrees and a few edges smoothed. sold a few now (exchange) and people have been very happy. £15 posted (exchange-will need the old one back, you pay postage)

Looks like it will help airflow a fair bit k:

well i can keep up with standard frp's at meets easily enough and at present i am running standard cams (dont ask! frp cams are in a cupboard!!) & thats a 10bhp ish drop in power......so in theory (maybe!) the maf and frp inlet i make have added a good 10bhp.....

did you ever remove the centre piece jacko??

I am currently looking at my spare MAF and cant't see how the bottom column is needed. do you have any pics of one without this piece?

one more question... what tool gets the torx shaped screws out with a silly little bobble piece in the middle of it so a normal torx won't go in.

You need anti-tamper torx bits. Mine came from ARD Electronics, but I don't think they are still trading. Try Halfords, B&Q, etc.

Machine Mart do a set for about £10 think its a Torx T10 security bit from memory

nice one i will head down now. Thanks People.

a drill works wonders...... then replace with an allen bolt or similar....

slimmed the centre bit down. have seen them on ebay with centre removed....dunno tho. its there to do something so....er! my mk2 was going to have centre removed to experiment...havent got round to it....

ive been sanding down ALL day lol. i have slimmed the middle down a little bit but I dont want to push it and expose the screws. I have just focused mainly on the flat edges of it like the circle opening for the sensor bit. it is bloody hard work lol... just letting it bath in hot water for a bit to get rid of some of the grime from the outside.

Ive cut out all but the tube part inside the maf this is the mk3

and how is that? much difference?

I have decided to take it to my dads factory and get it done properly with the right tools and get all that grime vacuum blasted off so it looks brand spanking new when im done.

should i remove the centre column... hmmm

carb cleaner....& if that done work i use the sanding bits on a dremel....

to flow it get it on a lathe & chamfer the intake etc to 10 degrees.....or post it to me & i can do it for a free drink at the next meet....

you would? as in flow it as good as yours?

From what I can see, the centre bit only directs the airflow from the sensor back to the bottom of the MAF airflow. I'll let you know soon what sort of effect it has, cos I've just hacksawed and filed mine off. Just got to saw the plate down to size and polish it a little and I'll try it. Got to get some more sanding pads, any body know where I can get a bulk bag of the things? I've seen them somewhere, it might have been the DATA show at the NEC last year. If anybody knows give us the heads up.

i can do the intake & outlet....effectively knife edging them so theres no step that affects the airflow....i can do this in about 5 mins on the lathe....the rest my friend is upto u!!! cos it takes bloody ages!!!

took me the best part of an hour to do the intake etc by hand....use a lathe now tho...5 mins

i will look forward to your findings hotrodspike!

and I would be very grateful if you could do it for me jacko. where abouts you from? are you sure you dont want any money for the work?

Well, just fitted the surgically adapted MAF, and.......
the car wouldn't idle, backfired, no power, kept surging, so I've put the original back on and everything is AOK again. This was on a normally mapped ECU so it might be alright with a different map.
Anybody want it to play with, it's yours for the postage. Let me know.
I'm going down the lightening route now instead, CF bonnet, lose the spare/carrier and possibly the back seats. Might try again around Xmas and buy a Dreamscience thingy etc.

It was worth a try.

i got rid of the spare and the back seats for a time being but there back in... can tell of the improvement.

thanks for the headsup. it was deff worth a try and i bet it could be mapped in somehow.

I don't really think that losing the weight will affect the performance that much, but it should lower the fuel consumption a touch (ecologically sound, that's me), plus why carry stuff that I don't need to carry? The most I ever carry is me and the missus so I don't need the back seat. I'll have a look during my holidays. Fetching the CF bonnet today and fitting that next weekend, all I've got to do then is go on a diet and lose a couple of stone!