danielz000
Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2010
- Messages
- 167
Hope this helps someone, please feel free to delete it if it's already been done...
Things you will need:
Lots of gloves
Lots of tissues
A swear box
19mm socket
32mm socket
Torque wrench (covering 45nm to 270/290nm)
18mm deep offset (swan neck) ring spanner
HW6 hex bit
T50 torx bit
17mm spanner
CV joint or CV boot
CV boot pliers (e.g. Sealey VS1633 although nail puller pliers might work)
Long nose pliers
New hub nut
Things you might need:
T45 torx bit
Mallet
Circlip pliers
A new suspension arm ball joint pinch bolt
1) loosen the wheel nuts and the hub nut (you might need to 'destake' the nut).
2) Using the HW6 bit to stop the piston rod from turning use the 18mm swan neck ring spanner to loosen the suspension strut nut by 5 turns.
3) Jack the car up and remove the wheel.
4) Get the swear box ready and use the T50 torx bit and the 17mm spanner to release suspension arm ball joint pinch bolt (mine was almost completed rounded off). Detach the ball joint from the spindle carrier (I had to use a mallet to knock the arm down and out).
5) Remove the hub nut and washer underneath it.
BEFORE CONTINUING - REMEMBER NOT TO LET YOUR INNER CV JOINT BEND MORE THAN 18 DEGREES OR THE OUTER JOINT MORE THAN 45 DEGREES
6) Give the driveshaft stub a little tap and pull it out of the wheel hub, you will probably want to move the wheel hub towards the rear of the car a bit as shown in the picture (my cv joint is already off in this pic)
7) Use the scissors to cut your old CV boot off and then use the pliers on the CV boot clips (they look a bit like jubilee clips) to peel them back and off like a can of sardines. Remove any remains of the CV boots.
8) You should now be left with something that looks a bit like the following picture. Use some tissues to wipe up all the grease and muck on the driveshaft.
9) Once everything is a bit cleaner use the long nose pliers to release the circlip on the outer CV joint and pull the CV joint free. This may be a little tricky, it took me about 10 minutes to one of the sides so if you have small circlip pliers use them. Here's a picture of the CV joint from the back and still attached to the drive shaft, followed by a nice clear picture of the CV joint removed and cleaned up so you can see the circlip and what it is you need to open up to release the joint.
10) Give everything a clean and then slide your new boot over the drive shaft. Tighten up the small CV boot clip with the CV boot pliers. Fill boot with CV joint grease.
Note: You may notice that the drive shaft gets a bit thinner near where the small end of the boot goes. I'm not sure if the boot is meant to sit above or below this point but when I put my boot on the smaller part it seemed too compressed towards the wider end of the boot so I fastened it to the thicker part. I'm not sure what the correct thing to do is.
11) Make sure your CV joint is all straight and in line and slide it onto the drive shaft. Slide the wide end of the CV boot over the CV joint and fasten the larger CV boot clip.
12) Poke the drive shaft stub back through the wheel hub and loosely tighten the washer and your new nut onto it.
13) Fit the ball joint back into the carrier and tighten the torx bolt to 52nm. If you use a new pinch bolt (and I suggest you do) from eurocarparts it will be a T45 not a T50.
14) Tighten the drive shaft stub nut a bit further now fit the wheel and wheel nuts. Lower the car back to the floor and tighten the drive shaft stub nut to 270nm (that's from Ford TIS, I noticed another thread on here somewhere that says 290nm, i'm not sure what's correct). Next tighten the wheel nuts to 85nm.
15) Stake the drive shaft stub nut to secure it.
16) Using the HW6 again to stop the piston rod turning tighten the suspension strut nut to 45nm (I guess there's a special tool to do this but I'm just gonna do some maths to work out the correct torque).
I think that's everything and I think that's more or less correct. Any mistakes please let me know so I can correct the message.
Cheers,
Dan
Things you will need:
Lots of gloves
Lots of tissues
A swear box
19mm socket
32mm socket
Torque wrench (covering 45nm to 270/290nm)
18mm deep offset (swan neck) ring spanner
HW6 hex bit
T50 torx bit
17mm spanner
CV joint or CV boot
CV boot pliers (e.g. Sealey VS1633 although nail puller pliers might work)
Long nose pliers
New hub nut
Things you might need:
T45 torx bit
Mallet
Circlip pliers
A new suspension arm ball joint pinch bolt
1) loosen the wheel nuts and the hub nut (you might need to 'destake' the nut).
2) Using the HW6 bit to stop the piston rod from turning use the 18mm swan neck ring spanner to loosen the suspension strut nut by 5 turns.
3) Jack the car up and remove the wheel.
4) Get the swear box ready and use the T50 torx bit and the 17mm spanner to release suspension arm ball joint pinch bolt (mine was almost completed rounded off). Detach the ball joint from the spindle carrier (I had to use a mallet to knock the arm down and out).
5) Remove the hub nut and washer underneath it.
BEFORE CONTINUING - REMEMBER NOT TO LET YOUR INNER CV JOINT BEND MORE THAN 18 DEGREES OR THE OUTER JOINT MORE THAN 45 DEGREES
6) Give the driveshaft stub a little tap and pull it out of the wheel hub, you will probably want to move the wheel hub towards the rear of the car a bit as shown in the picture (my cv joint is already off in this pic)
7) Use the scissors to cut your old CV boot off and then use the pliers on the CV boot clips (they look a bit like jubilee clips) to peel them back and off like a can of sardines. Remove any remains of the CV boots.
8) You should now be left with something that looks a bit like the following picture. Use some tissues to wipe up all the grease and muck on the driveshaft.
9) Once everything is a bit cleaner use the long nose pliers to release the circlip on the outer CV joint and pull the CV joint free. This may be a little tricky, it took me about 10 minutes to one of the sides so if you have small circlip pliers use them. Here's a picture of the CV joint from the back and still attached to the drive shaft, followed by a nice clear picture of the CV joint removed and cleaned up so you can see the circlip and what it is you need to open up to release the joint.
10) Give everything a clean and then slide your new boot over the drive shaft. Tighten up the small CV boot clip with the CV boot pliers. Fill boot with CV joint grease.
Note: You may notice that the drive shaft gets a bit thinner near where the small end of the boot goes. I'm not sure if the boot is meant to sit above or below this point but when I put my boot on the smaller part it seemed too compressed towards the wider end of the boot so I fastened it to the thicker part. I'm not sure what the correct thing to do is.
11) Make sure your CV joint is all straight and in line and slide it onto the drive shaft. Slide the wide end of the CV boot over the CV joint and fasten the larger CV boot clip.
12) Poke the drive shaft stub back through the wheel hub and loosely tighten the washer and your new nut onto it.
13) Fit the ball joint back into the carrier and tighten the torx bolt to 52nm. If you use a new pinch bolt (and I suggest you do) from eurocarparts it will be a T45 not a T50.
14) Tighten the drive shaft stub nut a bit further now fit the wheel and wheel nuts. Lower the car back to the floor and tighten the drive shaft stub nut to 270nm (that's from Ford TIS, I noticed another thread on here somewhere that says 290nm, i'm not sure what's correct). Next tighten the wheel nuts to 85nm.
15) Stake the drive shaft stub nut to secure it.
16) Using the HW6 again to stop the piston rod turning tighten the suspension strut nut to 45nm (I guess there's a special tool to do this but I'm just gonna do some maths to work out the correct torque).
I think that's everything and I think that's more or less correct. Any mistakes please let me know so I can correct the message.
Cheers,
Dan
