JASAPP

Do you have a Puma that is a project? Do you want to track the progress with your own thread? Feel free to do it here.

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Postby red » Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:59 am

8-) that's great news! Well done JASAPP
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Postby XAF » Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:28 am

Are MoT's a drive through affair with you guys then?
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Wild E. Coyote
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:16 pm

TBH, not really. It starts with you entering the testing lane (is that ok word to be used?) with your headlights on. Then you stop on the suspension strecher (the movable platform that tests the bushes and streches everything) and steer left and right a bit. The tester goes under the car and checks (visually) everything. Then he climbs out of a hole and sits behind the SW. He checks instrumentation and that lights, side repeaters, wipers and washer work and then proceeds onto the brake testers. Brakes with front wheels on the tester, proceeds to do the same with rear brakes (including the parking brake) and gose to the emission test. First he conditions a catalyst to bring it up to temperature and then does few measurings (at idle and 2000-3000 rpm). After that he checks the headlight aiming and that is it.
If all is ok, it lasts about 15 minutes and you go for stamping your documentation and paying for it all...
I would imagine it is pretty much the same in UK?
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Postby XAF » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:59 pm

Wild E. Coyote wrote:Source of the post TBH, not really. It starts with you entering the testing lane (is that ok word to be used?) with your headlights on. Then you stop on the suspension strecher (the movable platform that tests the bushes and streches everything) and steer left and right a bit. The tester goes under the car and checks (visually) everything. Then he climbs out of a hole and sits behind the SW. He checks instrumentation and that lights, side repeaters, wipers and washer work and then proceeds onto the brake testers. Brakes with front wheels on the tester, proceeds to do the same with rear brakes (including the parking brake) and gose to the emission test. First he conditions a catalyst to bring it up to temperature and then does few measurings (at idle and <a href="tel:2000-3000">2000-3000</a> rpm). After that he checks the headlight aiming and that is it.
If all is ok, it lasts about 15 minutes and you go for stamping your documentation and paying for it all...
I would imagine it is pretty much the same in UK?


Ha, ha. No!!

You turn up, they look at you as if you've just run over their dog, ask if you're sure it's booked in, tell you to come back in a few hours after they've had a fag and a biscuit. It's not a nice experience usually!

I actually used to help do MoT's many years ago and I'm sure it's not fundentally changed other than computerisation. There are no testing lanes or suspension tables. On the ramp, jack up the front, check. Jack up the back, check. Prod rusty parts with an official MoT hammer (which back in the day was suspiciously clean hanging on the wall as the tester where I worked preferred to us a small crow bar. I kid you not!), then do emissions and brakes.

15 mins would be a dream. 45 mins at least
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Postby red » Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:17 pm

:lol: 15 minutes sounds like pure fantasy, not to mention all this wizardry with suspension tests.

That sounds a lot more standardised than we have here, you could literally take your car to two places 1 mile apart and they'd pick up on completely different things. I'm sure it's just a perception thing as a customer and it probably is supposed to adhere to a structure..
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Postby g-whizz » Tue Apr 25, 2017 4:03 pm

Sounds & looks more like the system they have in Spain, mind they were also a LOT stricter over mods etc. Very difficult to get them through without engineer reports etc. and sometimes even that wouldn't suffice. Lots of bureaucracy. Having had to put cars through our MOT & Spanish ITV I'd rather wait the extra 30mins or so and not have to deal with returning the car to manufacturer's spec beforehand :grin: Not sure how that aspect is in Croatia of course?
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:43 pm

Just wanted to clarify things: the 15 minutes is for the actual check itself. The waiting in various queues is not included! It took me about an hour to complete the procedure.
Regarding the mods. Our testers are very picky on tyres for instance; if I had something other than 195/50 R15 (the homolgated dimensions) I would have some explaining to do and possibly problems. On the other hand, no one cares about the aftermarked HID's which blind everybody but the actual driver...
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Postby TGPlayer1 » Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:08 pm

UK MOTs have to last for at least 60 mins as the tester has to log on to the system and remain logged in for an hour - according to a pal o' mine
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sun May 07, 2017 4:38 pm

Did some more investigation on B6 swap. First made a bracket to determine the position of chassis leg in relation to the existing IB5 gearbox. Rather crude, but enough for some conclusions and ideas...

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You can notice the inlination: the engine is tilted to the rear in the engine bay.

And the outcome is here. It is remarkably close! The ST180 gearbox mount will need rasing by about a cm or so..

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I guess I will need taking these studs out and replace them with slightly longer ones. They are studs?

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Then it would just be a matter of making a subplate thick about a cm or so and sliding it beneath the mount. The other side is offset in relation to the puma one about a cm or so to the left (further away from the engine).
The holes are for the original puma mount that was bolted here previously

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Now, this might be a problem

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It is fouling my construction. If the chassis leg is more like capital letter I in cross section, that shouldn't be a problem.

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If not, some cutting and welding will be required...

Also, there might be slight clearance issue with the cable bracket on the gearbox and the hose for heating the cabin

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Fortunately, the big metal part at the back is bolted to the carrier and can be taken down and modified shoudl be needed. I would really like to see the fiesta hose as the engine water outlet is more or less the same....
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sat May 13, 2017 5:59 pm

Some work to make car nicer! Since I had that accident with a deere had to buy a new headlight. Fortunately, it was available at the time and I replaced. So the left one is now 3 years old and looking nice, but the other one is as old as is the car and turned yellowish. Few days ago a stray dog ran in front of me, I avoided it, fortunately!, but it dawned on me that if had that accident my car wouldn't be driveable any more as headlights are NLA. So, I browsed through eBay (german mainly, as the headlights are different for LHD and RHD vehices and spotted a sale for a pair of headlights, which were as good as new! The price was OMG, but still much cheaper than one new headlight (were they still obtaineable) so went for them. And, today replaced the flakey one...
Before:

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The other end for comparison

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And after :grin:

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And the car as is now...

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Gained at least 5-8 bhp with this upgrade :wink: :lol:
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sun Jun 04, 2017 7:32 am

Cleaned the flakey, yellowish one. Went with sanding paper (600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500) to get here....

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Then used some polishing paste to get to this state
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And then finally dropped it off at a friend with paintshop who did them with a clear coat to renew the UV protection (or they would turn yellow really nasty in under half a year again)

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That headlight really looks as good as new now. Hopefully, the clear laquer will stay on it (as it was done professionally and cured in the heat chamber after applying).


Switching back onto the B6 gearbox. As predicted, there is a slight clearance issue with the hose connecting the head and the heating element for the cabin

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Will have to take that shield off and most probbaly do one with slightly different top end to prevenet kinking the hose to much.

On more positive note, got the driveshaft made shorter and am really pleased with how it turned out. The original driveshaft is really impressively made and is hardened. The surface hardness is HRC 49.7. So the replacement one they did exactly the same and is hardened to the same standard and hollow as well.

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Next on the list is the intermediate shaft bearing carrier
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Postby tuonokid » Sun Jun 04, 2017 1:09 pm

Top quality work there again Sinisa, well done mate :thumbs:
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Postby CeReD » Tue Jul 25, 2017 12:27 pm

Photobucket suck - use imgur to host your images - all the bandidth! :D

Amazing work too going by the descriptions, if you pull this off hopefully i'lll become the first FRP with a 1.7 6spd
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Postby aj5419 » Mon May 07, 2018 1:07 pm

I have to say, you got here a nice project :) Congrats for the car. I will use some of this on my own ;)
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sun May 13, 2018 8:33 am

Cheers!

Just trying on imgur. JASAPP on MOT station in queue. She passed with flying colours!

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So, that works! You have to select the last option, linked BBCode for messaging boards and the image shows up perfectly :wink:
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Postby tuonokid » Sun May 13, 2018 5:24 pm

Looking sharp as usual Sinisa plus I wish mine had the parking sensors as well.
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509

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Postby mogsa98 » Tue May 15, 2018 9:13 pm

Congrats on the MOT, any news on the gearbox? As you know, I'm still very much interested, as I'm hoping to do the fact same conversion :grin:
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Wed May 16, 2018 10:17 am

It is on slow burner ATM. I got myself a civic 1.5 (1999) as daily driver to protect the JASAPP mileage and have been sorting the honda out since august. I expect to pick up the work on B6 conversion in about a month :wink:

(have to praise honda as very logicaly and precisely made car which is incredibly easy to work on and is totaly rust resistant. Also, quite frugal; I average 5,3 l/100 km with it so no need for diesel whatsoever)
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