JASAPP

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Post by red » Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:59 am

8-) that's great news! Well done JASAPP
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Post by XAF » Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:28 am

Are MoT's a drive through affair with you guys then?
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:16 pm

TBH, not really. It starts with you entering the testing lane (is that ok word to be used?) with your headlights on. Then you stop on the suspension strecher (the movable platform that tests the bushes and streches everything) and steer left and right a bit. The tester goes under the car and checks (visually) everything. Then he climbs out of a hole and sits behind the SW. He checks instrumentation and that lights, side repeaters, wipers and washer work and then proceeds onto the brake testers. Brakes with front wheels on the tester, proceeds to do the same with rear brakes (including the parking brake) and gose to the emission test. First he conditions a catalyst to bring it up to temperature and then does few measurings (at idle and 2000-3000 rpm). After that he checks the headlight aiming and that is it.
If all is ok, it lasts about 15 minutes and you go for stamping your documentation and paying for it all...
I would imagine it is pretty much the same in UK?
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Post by XAF » Tue Apr 25, 2017 12:59 pm

Wild E. Coyote wrote: TBH, not really. It starts with you entering the testing lane (is that ok word to be used?) with your headlights on. Then you stop on the suspension strecher (the movable platform that tests the bushes and streches everything) and steer left and right a bit. The tester goes under the car and checks (visually) everything. Then he climbs out of a hole and sits behind the SW. He checks instrumentation and that lights, side repeaters, wipers and washer work and then proceeds onto the brake testers. Brakes with front wheels on the tester, proceeds to do the same with rear brakes (including the parking brake) and gose to the emission test. First he conditions a catalyst to bring it up to temperature and then does few measurings (at idle and <a href="tel:2000-3000">2000-3000</a> rpm). After that he checks the headlight aiming and that is it.
If all is ok, it lasts about 15 minutes and you go for stamping your documentation and paying for it all...
I would imagine it is pretty much the same in UK?
Ha, ha. No!!

You turn up, they look at you as if you've just run over their dog, ask if you're sure it's booked in, tell you to come back in a few hours after they've had a fag and a biscuit. It's not a nice experience usually!

I actually used to help do MoT's many years ago and I'm sure it's not fundentally changed other than computerisation. There are no testing lanes or suspension tables. On the ramp, jack up the front, check. Jack up the back, check. Prod rusty parts with an official MoT hammer (which back in the day was suspiciously clean hanging on the wall as the tester where I worked preferred to us a small crow bar. I kid you not!), then do emissions and brakes.

15 mins would be a dream. 45 mins at least
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Post by red » Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:17 pm

:lol: 15 minutes sounds like pure fantasy, not to mention all this wizardry with suspension tests.

That sounds a lot more standardised than we have here, you could literally take your car to two places 1 mile apart and they'd pick up on completely different things. I'm sure it's just a perception thing as a customer and it probably is supposed to adhere to a structure..
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Post by g-whizz » Tue Apr 25, 2017 4:03 pm

Sounds & looks more like the system they have in Spain, mind they were also a LOT stricter over mods etc. Very difficult to get them through without engineer reports etc. and sometimes even that wouldn't suffice. Lots of bureaucracy. Having had to put cars through our MOT & Spanish ITV I'd rather wait the extra 30mins or so and not have to deal with returning the car to manufacturer's spec beforehand :grin: Not sure how that aspect is in Croatia of course?
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:43 pm

Just wanted to clarify things: the 15 minutes is for the actual check itself. The waiting in various queues is not included! It took me about an hour to complete the procedure.
Regarding the mods. Our testers are very picky on tyres for instance; if I had something other than 195/50 R15 (the homolgated dimensions) I would have some explaining to do and possibly problems. On the other hand, no one cares about the aftermarked HID's which blind everybody but the actual driver...
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Post by TGPlayer1 » Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:08 pm

UK MOTs have to last for at least 60 mins as the tester has to log on to the system and remain logged in for an hour - according to a pal o' mine
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sun May 07, 2017 4:38 pm

Did some more investigation on B6 swap. First made a bracket to determine the position of chassis leg in relation to the existing IB5 gearbox. Rather crude, but enough for some conclusions and ideas...

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You can notice the inlination: the engine is tilted to the rear in the engine bay.

And the outcome is here. It is remarkably close! The ST180 gearbox mount will need rasing by about a cm or so..

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I guess I will need taking these studs out and replace them with slightly longer ones. They are studs?

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Then it would just be a matter of making a subplate thick about a cm or so and sliding it beneath the mount. The other side is offset in relation to the puma one about a cm or so to the left (further away from the engine).
The holes are for the original puma mount that was bolted here previously

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Now, this might be a problem

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It is fouling my construction. If the chassis leg is more like capital letter I in cross section, that shouldn't be a problem.

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If not, some cutting and welding will be required...

Also, there might be slight clearance issue with the cable bracket on the gearbox and the hose for heating the cabin

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Fortunately, the big metal part at the back is bolted to the carrier and can be taken down and modified shoudl be needed. I would really like to see the fiesta hose as the engine water outlet is more or less the same....
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sat May 13, 2017 5:59 pm

Some work to make car nicer! Since I had that accident with a deere had to buy a new headlight. Fortunately, it was available at the time and I replaced. So the left one is now 3 years old and looking nice, but the other one is as old as is the car and turned yellowish. Few days ago a stray dog ran in front of me, I avoided it, fortunately!, but it dawned on me that if had that accident my car wouldn't be driveable any more as headlights are NLA. So, I browsed through eBay (german mainly, as the headlights are different for LHD and RHD vehices and spotted a sale for a pair of headlights, which were as good as new! The price was OMG, but still much cheaper than one new headlight (were they still obtaineable) so went for them. And, today replaced the flakey one...
Before:

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The other end for comparison

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And after :grin:

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And the car as is now...

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Gained at least 5-8 bhp with this upgrade :wink: :lol:
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sun Jun 04, 2017 7:32 am

Cleaned the flakey, yellowish one. Went with sanding paper (600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500) to get here....

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Then used some polishing paste to get to this state
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And then finally dropped it off at a friend with paintshop who did them with a clear coat to renew the UV protection (or they would turn yellow really nasty in under half a year again)

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That headlight really looks as good as new now. Hopefully, the clear laquer will stay on it (as it was done professionally and cured in the heat chamber after applying).


Switching back onto the B6 gearbox. As predicted, there is a slight clearance issue with the hose connecting the head and the heating element for the cabin

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Will have to take that shield off and most probbaly do one with slightly different top end to prevenet kinking the hose to much.

On more positive note, got the driveshaft made shorter and am really pleased with how it turned out. The original driveshaft is really impressively made and is hardened. The surface hardness is HRC 49.7. So the replacement one they did exactly the same and is hardened to the same standard and hollow as well.

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Next on the list is the intermediate shaft bearing carrier
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Post by tuonokid » Sun Jun 04, 2017 1:09 pm

Top quality work there again Sinisa, well done mate :thumbs:
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Post by CeReD » Tue Jul 25, 2017 12:27 pm

Photobucket suck - use imgur to host your images - all the bandidth! :D

Amazing work too going by the descriptions, if you pull this off hopefully i'lll become the first FRP with a 1.7 6spd
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Post by aj5419 » Mon May 07, 2018 1:07 pm

I have to say, you got here a nice project :) Congrats for the car. I will use some of this on my own ;)
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sun May 13, 2018 8:33 am

Cheers!

Just trying on imgur. JASAPP on MOT station in queue. She passed with flying colours!

Image
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So, that works! You have to select the last option, linked BBCode for messaging boards and the image shows up perfectly :wink:
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Post by tuonokid » Sun May 13, 2018 5:24 pm

Looking sharp as usual Sinisa plus I wish mine had the parking sensors as well.
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Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Post by mogsa98 » Tue May 15, 2018 9:13 pm

Congrats on the MOT, any news on the gearbox? As you know, I'm still very much interested, as I'm hoping to do the fact same conversion :grin:
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Wed May 16, 2018 10:17 am

It is on slow burner ATM. I got myself a civic 1.5 (1999) as daily driver to protect the JASAPP mileage and have been sorting the honda out since august. I expect to pick up the work on B6 conversion in about a month :wink:

(have to praise honda as very logicaly and precisely made car which is incredibly easy to work on and is totaly rust resistant. Also, quite frugal; I average 5,3 l/100 km with it so no need for diesel whatsoever)
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Mon Jul 30, 2018 8:05 pm

After some time finally did something for JASAPP. The ball joints were very lose and the steering wheel had some vibrations over 120 km/h.
So today replace one after work as I ran out of daylight and time for the both of them. The other will be done tomorrow..

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It was tricky and I approached the job full of trepidation (how will the suspension bolts behave?) but in the end they cooperated nicely and had no problems undoing them...

So this is a replacement, I went for TRW as they are known to be good quality
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The TIS says drill out the rivets and that was the biggest problem I faced! It took me over an hour to grind them and drill them out while paying attention not to hurt the suspension arms

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I started drilling a hole in each and grinding them down but they wouldn't let go

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In the end had to drill them completely out and they only then let go

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Finally, the new ball joint in its place

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And assembled on the car

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Tomorrow will do the other side
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Post by tuonokid » Tue Jul 31, 2018 12:05 am

Hi Sinisa
Well done mate, I've taken off two sets of front wishbones now and on both sides there has always been a seized bolt. I'm trying to work out which is hardest, grinding out the balljoint rivets or sawing off the wishbone bolts that are seized
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Aug 07, 2018 7:46 pm

While doing the ball joints have seen that one of bushes has well passed it's prime...

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So replaced them both as had them on my personal stock. I used original Motorcraft ones.

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Did take the suspension arms with me to a friend's who has a 20 ton press. They went out without a problem and the new ones in.

After that decided I had enough of rust on the front crossmember. I was worried it was spreading from within and was releived to find it only on surface. Sanded it down, then treated with rust stop and after that covered with zinc primer.
Next weekend will paint it with a coat of moondust silver and then the clearcoat to protect it and finish it off properly...

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Post by tuonokid » Thu Aug 09, 2018 12:18 am

Hi Sinisa
Just to let you know, the panel you worked on is known in English as the slam panel as it's what the bonnet slams against when it's closed.
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Wed Sep 05, 2018 5:54 pm

When replacing balljoints discovered that there was no heatshields for the balljoint boots. So bought them and installed.

Image

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And finis code, should anyone need it...

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On first thought it probably isn't needed as I am using bigger discs (ST150 brake setup) which are more heat resistant, but then gave it some thinking and cam to conlusion that bigger discs bring the heat source closer to the boots so installed them.
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Post by Nooni_nooni » Wed Sep 05, 2018 7:25 pm

Loved reading through all this. Lovely subtle changes that make your car into some kind of luxury edition without anything looking odd or out of place. Very tastefully done and inspiring to me!
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Thu Sep 06, 2018 7:14 am

Nooni_nooni wrote:
Wed Sep 05, 2018 7:25 pm
Loved reading through all this. Lovely subtle changes that make your car into some kind of luxury edition without anything looking odd or out of place. Very tastefully done and inspiring to me!
Cheers, mate!

The car is a product of a team of designers that went to study arts etc. During process they have tried many, many iterations to come to the solution as it is. It doesn't hurt me to admit I don't have that level of knowledge and experience so I would only spoil it. I try to keep it visually as close to the OEM as possible.

Understatement is for me the only way to go
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