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Do you have a Puma that is a project? Do you want to track the progress with your own thread? Feel free to do it here.

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Wild E. Coyote
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sat Jan 23, 2016 4:00 pm

It has a lip for that purpose, but not the usual one at 10 mms+ that traps all the crap inside. No problem with it whatsoever, as I believe it is a bit thicker than original, anyway....
It was welded (MIG), as is usual pracice. First just few spots, and then filled in until everything was welded. It is strong plenty enough.... You don't have to worry about that
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:53 am

Hi everyone,

I need some advice. I am planning a gearbox replacement, opting for six speeder from fiesta ST180. Those can be had for some, not to expensive money, offer very similar 5 gear ratios, exactly the same final drive ratio, the added 6th gear and a potential for power increase (did I hear somene whispering turbo.....? :wink: ).
From the information I could gather on net, the belhousing is the same and the B6 should have the same bolt pattern as the IB5.
First hurdle passed.
The second is, obviously, the cable shift system, but that shouldn't be much of a problem.
That brings us to the third obstacle. The ST180 is a new car and has no VSS as it gets its speed from a rear wheel ABS sensor. Sure, someone might suggest to follow the same route, but puma uses old ABS system (inductive sensors) so they output A/C voltage (someone please correct me if I am wrong on this).
The new system uses Hall or VR sensors that output spikes if I am not mistaken? So, that is a no-go, I am affraid.
Turning my attention to VSS. I have done some investigation and found info (Delphi is the source) that there is some sort of 'rule' that each turn of wheel should produce 8 spikes by Hall sensor. Can someone confirm this information?
I would guess, as all sensors in car, this uses 5V?
So, these are my thoughts: ideally, I would just chuck in the speedo gear on diff, as it is in IB5 gearbox. I don't know if that is possible, as the B6 is, so I understand, completely new construction. I know some gearboxes of other manufacturers have just plugs where pinion gears should go in if they are not installed.
If that fails, plan is to put a hall sensor and a gear on driveshaft. Ideally, I would put on the speedogear and pinion drive with VSS and everything would just work as intended, but have reservation as that gear is in oil and that would mean I need seals on driveshaft etc....
Any input and thought is more than welcome!
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Postby tuonokid » Tue Mar 01, 2016 2:58 pm

Hi Sinisa
That's a lot of work to take on and is there a LSD in this box like you have at the moment? The sensor you've put on your other post is similar to the one Westfield use and that drives off the bolts holding the CV joints onto the diff output so that's 6 spikes per revolution.
Barry
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Tue Mar 01, 2016 3:31 pm

I was hoping you would know and answer something! Ok, that is a step in the right direction. I have found that subarus need 4 spikes per revolution for their speedo. What speedo do you use on westie? A stock Ford one or aftermarket?
No LSD in that box but quaife has one on offer. Needless to say, my g'box will be for sale if you are interested....
Of course it is lot of work, but the possible gain will outweight all the hassle as I do lots of motorway miles every day (100 kms) so turning the revs down will be like from heaven sent feature.... :wink:
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Postby tuonokid » Tue Mar 01, 2016 3:58 pm

Hi Sinisa
The Westfield one is a VDO from the vision series but if you're not using the original speedo can't you use a GPS one and then you won't have to worry about wiring in senders etc. Also if you're worrying about getting the cruising revs down wouldn't it be possible to swap to another Ford CWP with your existing box?
Your gearbox would be wasted in my car as it's having an easy life but I'm sure others would be interested.
Barry

http://www.vdo-instruments.com/instrume ... meter.html

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keyw ... i8ge0nmw_b

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/b ... peedo-plus
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509

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Postby moondustka » Tue Mar 01, 2016 11:03 pm

You can always use a speedo healer to correct a signal if you can get a VSS to work?
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Wed Mar 02, 2016 9:21 am

HAd a good look yesterday only to discover (to my embarassement) that I have digital sender already. It is a Hall sensor reading input from speed ring on diff. Silly of me to spend few days of investigating instead of checking what actually is on my car! :oops:
Anyway, that made conversion much easier and more doable; now I need just to get hold of speed ring that is attached to the diff. Does anyone here have it laying around to get a picture of it? My plan is to replicate it and attach it to the driveshaft and that is it.
Cheers for the help in advance, and also in reverse to the ones who contributed already 8-)
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Postby Brian' » Wed Mar 02, 2016 11:29 am

I might be interested in your gearbox :D
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sun Mar 20, 2016 3:34 pm

Yesterday had a good clean of my car and also checked the sills to see how those stickers held through the winter.

So instead of lots of talk, just some images to show that it was really well spent 30 minutes!

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The car in general

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A closer look at the left sill

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No rust, no stone chips. The sticker held nicely!

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The door area

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This is fantastic condition. I recommend to eveyone to put that sticker on his car. It really does its job and protects the bodywork.

As a comparison, a shot of my front bumper. I am not worried about it as it can't rust, but the damage is visible.

Image


Those 30 minutes I did spend on applying the stickers to the car were really invaluable!
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Postby Frank » Sun Mar 20, 2016 3:46 pm

Wild E. Coyote wrote:Source of the post I recommend to everyone to put that sticker on his car. It really does its job and protects the bodywork.

Is it on just for the winter or all the time? i.e. can it be removed without damage?
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sun Mar 20, 2016 5:38 pm

Permanent thing. If I were to take it off it would most probably take the paintjob with it
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Postby TylerB » Sun Mar 20, 2016 7:12 pm

Looking good, i wonder if it won't change too much of color after a longer period. Anyway it seems to give a great protection of the paint. Might give this a try for my sills too.
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Postby tuonokid » Mon Mar 21, 2016 1:33 am

Hi Sinisa
I thought it would be like Vinyl and just peel off but it doesn't matter if it's doing protection. My next door neighbour has just bought a 2012 Impreza saloon and this car has the same thing all over the rear wheel arches just like the MK1 Focus RS
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509

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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Mon Mar 21, 2016 7:34 am

No, it is rather thick, perhaps 2 mm. But, it is excellent stuff. Lots of new cars have that on rear doors to protect it from chip stones.
And the adhesive is so strong, once on I don't think it would come off just like that. Perhaps with some heating involved...?
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Postby Milkie » Tue Mar 22, 2016 10:45 am

I use that stuff on RC heli rotors and mountain bikes, protects the bikes a lot from scratches, chips, crashes! It's known as Heli Tape, there are different thicknesses and don't buy unbranded cheap stuff as it will probably go yellow with UV. I usually apply it with soapy water, a sponge and a hairdryer as it's around awkward tubes. It can definitely take the paintwork off. :wink:

Never even thought about using it on cars! :roll:
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Postby KoNLaR » Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:43 am

People do this to the entire car. Mostly known as clear bra or paint protection film. Helps a lot against scratches and chips. Can even go as far as protecting against someone trying to key your car. If you get a self healing clear bra, just some hot water and scratch is gone.
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:48 pm

Update time!

After almost a year of thinking about and planning finally gave in and replaced the engine mount. Can't complain about the old one as it gave me a service life of 207.800 kms! It hasn't leaked, but there was some dronning noise present at certain revs at certain times. Run into some old stock clearing so got the FeBi mount for mere 32 GBP! The problem was that the four bolts were rusted in and really stuck big time. To make the problem worse, they are very strange bolts; they are not standard bolts as they use spanner 10 and being so small make it easy for spanner to slip and deform the head beyond use. Today had an opportunity and took it: a colleague had his acetilene-oxygen cutter ready, set the flame to very mild setting and heated it up from beneath. The bolts gave in right away without any resistance!

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They were reused, although I am thinking about replacing them with standard ones with some washers as their head would be bigger; most probably in region of 12-13 mms.

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Then it was time for undoing the big nut (#41!) but that was not a problem.

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Only thing left was to take the 3 studs out of engine block (engine was, naturally suported by a jack) and here they were:

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And, finally the old mount. Rusty as hell, but no leaks, did his duty well!

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And new and shiney mount!

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Little of blue loctite on all the threads to keep them safe from undoing and to protect them from rust as well and all is put together. The engine runs sweeter and quieter, the car is running great! It is noticeably quieter and I would strongly recommend to replace the engine mount as it improves NVH beyond description! Very good update, not expensive and not very time consuming. The car just got better! Again :wink: :grin:
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Postby trublustu » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:58 pm

This upper engine mount is @15 years old on almost every Puma.
Most I have seen, have perished/burst and gone sloppy over time. Causing vibration and `buzzing` at speed.
I replaced my (leaky) original with the stiffest one I could find.
You certainly found a bargain at £32gbp.
A few dollops of grease on the exposed lower part of the bolt thread, will help with any future maintenance.
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Postby tuonokid » Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:59 pm

Well done Sinisa. Did you waggle the stud on each mount after you took out the old one to see if you could feel any difference?
Barry
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509

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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:54 am

No Barry, I didn't. But at the first startup I could tell the difference right away. Ok, I am really anal about NVH having my car accoustically treated in every possible way. The other took the instrument cluster out and put some foam beneath the silver shroud as during winter sometimes it was buzzing just a bit on cold mornings with engine in 1800-2200 rpm range. Noone else either noticed, or was bothered by it, but it was driving me crazy when it was happening (picture me driving and with left hand holding the shroud as then it wouldn't make any noise :cry: ).
After 'foaming it' it was much better, but still there was some very slight sound appearing: now it is completely gone! Since the improvement is so massive, already got the torque link (FeBi, even cheaper at 13 GBP) which will be rplaced this weekend. Then it leaves only the gearbox mount which I haven't sourced yet, but intend to!
The thing that is so motivating is the improvement that each of those things bring to the car and just makes her another step closer to the good as new state which is the ultimate goal. It really still is, in every respect, a really GREAT car. The performance is there, well and above any small car, economy is (in real life) on par with two generations younger cars that puma outperforms with smile on her face :grin:
Really a great car that deserves to be in prime condition
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:30 pm

Just few decent photos of the mount in the engine bay....

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Still can't believe how stupid these bolts are with that small head for spanner #10....

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And what is more to come over weekend if the weather holds (as the rain is forecast and a drop in teperature of at least 10 C!)

Image
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Apr 07, 2016 6:43 pm

Hi Sinisa
Welcome to our world :-) we had nearly all 4 seasons here yesterday, rain, high winds, really cold, hail and sunny, it must be a shock after 25C?
Barry

http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/2646458
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509

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Wild E. Coyote
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Thu Apr 07, 2016 7:07 pm

TBH, last seven days were averaging 25C+ which is not normal for this period of year, but hey, what is normal these days/years....?
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Postby moondustka » Thu Apr 07, 2016 10:52 pm

You should find a local eletroplater for the those bolts Sinisa :wink: will stop the heads deforming from surface rust.

But yes, you're right, they are a daft sized bolt for their purpose!
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Fri Apr 08, 2016 6:45 am

moondustka wrote:Source of the post You should find a local eletroplater for the those bolts Sinisa :wink: will stop the heads deforming from surface rust.

But yes, you're right, they are a daft sized bolt for their purpose!


Nah, I will do it. Have already given a go at it, just need to find some time to set it all up. Zinc is already at home :wink:
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