JASAPP

Do you have a Puma that is a project? Do you want to track the progress with your own thread? Feel free to do it here.

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tuonokid
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JASAPP

Post by tuonokid » Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:17 pm

Just had a thought, does the new box have a fixed shaft at the back of the engine as that would be a good place to mount a trigger as there is only rotary movement on that.
0 x
2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Wild E. Coyote
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:39 pm

tuonokid wrote:
Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:06 pm
Hi Sinisa
The trigger wheels I've seen are usually quite light duty so to weld those to the flange of the driveshaft would be quite difficult but i'm sure you could epoxy them on but is there room on the inner flange because the flange is quite recessed down into the gearbox and there are strengthening webs around there (from memory)
That is actually not a bad idea! Glueing it in place. There is enough space, I checked. The only problem would be scaling down the signal as it would be 4-5 times bigger frequency, than needed. Ok, that is one option. Still think the best option is using the rear hubs, but alternative solution is always a bonus.

I might open up a gearbox and check if there is enough space on differential to take the tone ring from MTX75, but am very reluctant to the idea of drilling the housing so woud rather mount the sensor from outside...
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XAF
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Post by XAF » Sun Nov 25, 2018 9:44 pm

Sinisa, you have blown my mind again!! How do you even know where to start with this stuff?!!

I’m in awe, and can’t wait to see the result!
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Wild E. Coyote
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Mon Nov 26, 2018 5:25 am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bQzkdK2ha0

1:40...
A bit from here, a bit from there.... :wink:

All is there on the net, you just have to search and study :!:
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Wild E. Coyote
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sun Dec 09, 2018 8:52 pm

So, a smallish update. I am sorry that progress is very slow, but I am just so busy lately and by the time I get home it is pitch dark and cold and since I have no heating in my mancave the things are not progressing as I would like them to!

So I am now focusing mainly on research and planning...

Anyway, this is the setup I am going to use (hopefully) as my VSS replacement.

Image

Image

This is the camshaft position sensor from a Hyundai i30/i20. Nothing fancy about it, just happened to have access to the connector and pigtail for it, hence the choice. When you come down to it, all are the same, i.e. do the same thing. As said, all the sensors are doing the same thing, the only differences among them is the packaging. There are som other candidates if this one turns out to be unsuitable.This one is Hall type, what is denoted by 3 wires.

Image

One wire is +, the other is ground and the third one is signal. It works both on 12V (as intended in Hyundai, most probably to be more resilient to distortions) and 5V. When sensor is in proximity of a ferrous metal it opens up the signal and sends the puls of 12V or 5V (depending on what is connected to).

There are two wire sensors which are VR (inductive) and they produce sinusoidal voltage that needs processing to be turned into voltage peaks needed by PCM, instrument cluster and PS pump. They need certain speed of rotation for the rings to be of use. The same type is used in ABS in puma and as you know it doesn't work below 5-6 kph. Hence I opted for Hall type.

I will have this tone ring laser cut from 4.5 - 5 mm thick steel plate (not stainless, it has to be magnetic)

Image

It has 9 teeth as that is what my instrument cluster needs per wheel revolution to operate. The Toyota PS pump needs 4.5 pulses per wheel revolution so that signal would need scaling down by 50%. The idea is to have it installed to the rear hub. Might make additional 3 holes for attaching it to the hub by 3 bolts to secure it properly. There will some be needed some bracket for the sensor, but will cross that bridge when come to it.

The other option would be to use another ABS sensor at rear already existing tone rings (you can just make another opening for it on the other side of the hub) but that one has 44 teeth so would need some serious scaling down (dividing by factor of 4.89 for IC and by 9.78 for PS pump) and, as already explanined, wouldn't operate below 5-6 kph, but no need for machining the hub, fabricating the bracket etc...

So that's it for the moment. When there is some development, will post it
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Wild E. Coyote
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sun Mar 17, 2019 9:23 pm

Smallish update from JASAPP. As was preparing it for a weekend drive, discovered a leak from power steering servo system. Had a good look, and the pressure pipe corroded in front. Not the cooler, but the twisted section in front of A/C compressor.

Image

That rubber which is suppsed to protect it was a reason for failure. It collected moisture and the pipe corroded through. So, had a real fun taking it out yesterday. Had to take the battery out and then only just could undo the pipe from steering rack.
Anyway, it is out. After washing, cleaning and drying...

Image

It really is a testament to stupidity of a person who designed it. It is part of high pressure circuit and it must be altogether 2 meters long with two elastic sections. It could have been made 0.5 meters in length but someone thought this was cheaper option then to put PS switch next to the rack, behind gearbox (plenty of space for that). Instead, it runs along engine to the front to get the PS swithc next to A/C compressor switch on line and then goes all the way back to the rack. Really, really stupid solution!

Talking stupid: is there anything more prone to failures than the notorious HCV? The second one broke on me. I noticed some coolant was missing, and thought I smelled it too, but this was final proof:
Image

Again the front section broke as the pipe is twisting it with the engine movements. I am so fed up with this idiotic solution that I will be making my bespoke HCV out of metal to prevent this kind of shit happening again. I will be using the solenoid part from the plastic HCV, but the housing and pipeing will be made out of aluminum or something similar. The solenoid will be bolted to it (as it is now) and that should work as intended, but hopefully no more these breakages.
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tuonokid
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Post by tuonokid » Sun Mar 17, 2019 11:05 pm

Hi Sinisa
How are you going to repair it, with new pipes from Ford or go to a Hydraulic shop and have custom pipes made up? When I get the pipes off my scrapper Thunder I'm hoping I can get some made up in better materials at Pirtek.
Barry
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

My Project Link - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=23509" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Wild E. Coyote
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Mon Mar 18, 2019 5:18 am

Hi Barry,

As interim solution I will buy another one, but will use this one as a template. The left pipe (which is broken) is only connection for the two hoses anyway. The other has to provide housing for the solenoid valve..

And if you were asking (most probably you were) about the power steering hose, I will get it repaired. As you know my plan is to get rid of it anyway later when I install the Toyota pump so this will be useless. And given the Toyotoa PS pump will be fixed to bodywork, no flexyble hoses will be needed so I will bend a copper hose and fix it to the bodywork.
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