project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Do you have a Puma that is a project? Do you want to track the progress with your own thread? Feel free to do it here.

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demonskull13
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project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Sat May 23, 2015 3:39 am

my ford puma project black 1.7 is no more as wrote off on the motorway before christmas:

so now im on my ford puma melina blue 1.7 project 2! its a 1999 car with only 93k miles on it owned by old lady for the past 4 years so hasent been raged engine is a very good one. just normal wheel arch rust worse on drivers side than passengers.It only cost me £350 and all the electrics are working as they should and very good engine. so below is a start for what i am planning to do to my puma 1.7
BUILT NOT BOUGHT

i have a idea of what i am going to be doing to it first job
boot relise switch upgrade using ford ka boot switch-job done
next:neon side lights and indicator-job done
next:double din car stereo/dvd/tv/radio/usb/micro sd card with adapter/reversing camera and sat nav.-job done for now
next:OE HCV £45.00 off ebay bought need fitting just need to buy antifreeze and give system a flush when i have the money.
next:front drivers side abs needs replacing :bought of ebay £10.50 just need to undo 8mm bolt might need to take it to a garage as it is very tight on.garage done nut for me for £10 so i did the rest now no more abs light on after starting -job done
next :backbox sportex off ebay £144.99 order next week job done
next :ap coilovers ebay £326.00 need to save up for. needed before m.o.t in november as on last m.o.t said shocks rusty but not major
next :onto the wheels 17" black wheels & tyres job done
next :ford fiesta st rs turbo st200 300mm brake caliper and ford focus st170 discs conversion job done
today 01/10/2015 dropped car off at the garage to have new cambelt kit and water pump took my own antifreeze as i bought it a while ago to do the h c v but found in recipts had been done by a garage a while ago so cambelt;job done
then when thats done see what to do next i will keep this updated.
below is a photo of the ka release switch i fitted.
Image
below is a photo of the neons i fitted.
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below is a photo of the double din stereo i fitted still needs slight adjustment to finish.
Image
Last edited by demonskull13 on Thu Oct 01, 2015 9:47 pm, edited 14 times in total.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Sun May 24, 2015 7:38 pm

below is some photos of my car when i purchased it for £350.00
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it is in very good condition for a puma that cost me £350.00 with only 93k on the clock
Last edited by demonskull13 on Fri Sep 25, 2015 12:37 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby Glenn_ » Sun May 31, 2015 3:17 pm

Looks a nice car. I like the double din radio.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby ArtfulHussy » Wed Jun 03, 2015 3:16 pm

I like the radio also, can I ask what model it is please? I would like to fit something similar to my puma but I don't know the first thing about I.C.E and wiring and all that lark.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Mon Jun 08, 2015 1:07 am

ArtfulHussy wrote:I like the radio also, can I ask what model it is please? I would like to fit something similar to my puma but I don't know the first thing about I.C.E and wiring and all that lark.


hi the stereo is on ebay under:
double 2 din HD 7" touch car DVD player GPS SAT Navstereo Radio FM iPod Camera
for:£89.99 & 31.01 postage and packing
first disconnect the battery to stop shorts or elecxtricution

To fit this you will need to take the old stereo out
cut the black peice of plastic off from where the heating controls if you look at where the screws go for the heating control panel, you should see the black bit as its got a bit of a lip on it dont cut any silver out, the black peice is quite easy to cut with a craft knife, this gives you a little more space that you will need with this removed it is still able to put origonal stereo back in.
now for the hard part after this i dont know if the old stereo will go back in as i havent tried it and allready sold it so cant try it :
so next get a hammer and hit the silver runner on the top inside where stereo goes this used to slide the old stereo in when its moved a bit try your double din in if wont go in hit runner more it will be a very tight fit also hit the 2 small bits of metal that are in the top on both sides its trial and error really getting it just right to get the double din in dont push it all the way in as it will be hard to get back out and you cant pull it from the front because of the way the screen moves and pulling it could break it. when the stereo is ready to be fitted you will need to wire it in so hears all the cable colours and what they do:

orange/black battery connection +
green/black didnt use
blue/black didnt use
thin orange/black illumination
thin orange/black didnt use
green/black negative/ground-
thin orange/black didnt use

and for the speakers they are:

white/black +front left
yellow/black -front left
white/purple +rear left
yellow/purple -rear left
white/red +front right
yellow/red -front right
white +rear right
yellow -rear right

problems wiring a sub and amp into a ford puma 1.7

main problems people have like i did myself are :
finding a hole from the engine bay into the car

the way i ended up doing it after a couple of days of looking and trying to work it out is this

first dissconect the battey to stop electricution/ or the car to short out

get a old metal coat hanger or thin stiff cable:
look under the bonnet you will see where the fuse box is pull water seal off just to get in furfer and let you take the top of the fuse box.take top of fuse box off to give you more room to play with look at the rubber gator which has the wiring loom going through get a hobby knife and cut a small cross on the left hand side of the gator being carefull not to cut wires in wiring loom then:
push the wire in it should be quite tight its best to get it as tight as you can to stop water leaks if you dont cut it big enough you can allways make it bigger but not smaller
push the wire in untill you can see it under the passenger side dash:
then get the red live cable and put a circular terminal on the live cable and hook coat hanger/wire through the hole so it dosent slip off.
pull the coat hanger/ wire from inside the car you will get to where the join is then you will have to pull it quite hard, dont worry about the gator going in as you can sort this later when the join has gone through it will go in easier and because its just a small cut it should still be waterproof. you can sort the gator now if its gone slightly in really easy to do.
after that run the live cable under the carpet to the back of the car and also run the remote cable on the same side from the stereo.
then its just the aux cable remove dash surround, so you can feed the cable behind and then under the carpet run to back of the car, the reason for running the live and remote down the passengers side and the aux cable down the drivers is to keep them as far apart as possible to stop getting interfearence form the live cables an distorting the sound.
then just wire the sub and amp up. Then the last job is to connect the power cable from the battery to the live cable . you should have left anough cable in the bonnet to get to the fuse box ect. now you can reconnect the battery if your happy you have done it right
i havent found anywhere that tells you how to do this so
hopefully this will help people wanting to wire a sub and amp in a puma
sorry about the lenth of this but just checking i covered everything if you want to be able to switch your sub on/off use blank button on dash & put a switch in to switch on/off.

if fitting a rear camera in run the video cable down drivers side,
you can run the ipod wire from stereo into the glove box easyly
and ive put a Digital T.V box into the clove compartment also.
then just reconnect the battery.
i also have just bought a sat nav card it is on ebay under:
IG08 replacement universal Double Din Software 8"7"6.8"6.2" Xtrons/Erisin
for £12.00 free postage and packing.

hope this helps with what your after and how to set it up any questions ask me

i cant take the blame for anyone doing this and getting it wrong if you feel like its a bit much of a challenge please ask someone you know who knows what there doing.

hope this helps.

Jason

:P 8) :thumbs: :D
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby ArtfulHussy » Mon Jun 08, 2015 8:04 am

Wooooaah-kaay.

I won't be attempting that one myself! :lol:

Very much a spanner and hammer car enthusiast, think I'll leave the lecky stuff to a professional.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby TGPlayer1 » Mon Jun 08, 2015 10:52 am

+1

I feel the standard audio system is adequate :lol:
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby trublustu » Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:17 pm

You could do as Ford did with the Platinum sound option
and take the power for the amp from the heated windscreen circuit.
(unless you want an insanely powerful amp of course)
This is easily found just behind the stereo..
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:37 pm

trublustu wrote:You could do as Ford did with the Platinum sound option
and take the power for the amp from the heated windscreen circuit.
(unless you want an insanely powerful amp of course)
This is easily found just behind the stereo..

so if your saying you could use the heated windscreen circuit,,could you also use the live off the cigarette lighter as im sure both would probably use the same amount of current?
just enquiring about this for other users;
because i have got a very loud amp and it needs to be wired to the battery!

:thumbs:

Jason
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Tue Jun 09, 2015 10:06 pm

hi i am going to share with you today my sub and amp install.

first i have cleared everything from the boot and the inside looks great with no rust/flackey paint or damage it is mint below.

Image
then i have got a peice of plywood and measured it buy simply drawing around the boot carpet outside the car then trying it in the car below.

Image
then i cut out the slot for the sub woother below.note i also cut out the peice for the spare wheel release screw.

Image

next i tried the sub into the slot i cut for it below.

Image

next i built the sub frame in the car by measuring and putting in and marking where each beam goes below.Image

then i took each beam out by itself and nailed it to the next part of the sub frame the sub frame is now done below.

Image

then by pushing the rear seats down the sub frame can go in note its not attached to the car atall because when you put the rear seats back up it locks it in place picture below.

Image

Image

then i got the plywood out again sloted it in and put the amp under the space i left it ready to have a perspex window fitted to see amp i will up date when i do this now it looks like this with plywood back in below

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then next i got the origonal carpet and using the plywood as a guide cut out the space where the sub is going so now it looks like this below

Image

Image

Image

Image

and thats it job done no more cables on display, sub locks in when rear seats are up and under the board i carry a few odds and ends e.g little bottle of water just in case jubili clips, and the wheel nut undoer.

hope this helps anyone who wants a sub with no wires storage space protection from shopping, and a tiedy boot

Jason

:P 8) :grin: :twisted:
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Thu Jul 30, 2015 12:25 am

below is a photo of my ford puma with second hand 17" alloys on not sure whether to have them powder coated white or keep them black.
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and below is the tip of my sporteck exhaust.
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and below is a photo of my second hand alternator painter with heat res spray looking good ready to go on when get the chance of a dry day
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my new sporteck backbox.
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and another photo of it.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby KoNLaR » Thu Jul 30, 2015 10:43 am

Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby Frank » Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:13 pm

demonskull13 wrote:Image


Car looking good. The drive, not so much. :-)

http://www.resolva-weeds.com/
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:16 pm

KoNLaR wrote:Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!

yes i am after the leather interior and as for rest of engine bay the engine cover is also purple and alot of the interior is also will put pictures up soon!
p.s. yes exhaust sounds great not to loud but a lovely rumble.


:thumbs: :pose2: :pose:
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:24 pm

Frank wrote:
demonskull13 wrote:Image


Car looking good. The drive, not so much. :-)

http://www.resolva-weeds.com/


yes i know lol
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:26 pm

heres the centre console getting ready to be sprayed

Image

more masking
Image

rest of masking
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rest of masking ready for primer
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primer sprayed
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3 coats purple i use the heat res stuff as its the same color as my alternator ect.
Image
ready to go back in car
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a good veiw through the puma you can see the centre console and dash surround
Image
good veiw of the centre console and dash surround
Image
i have also done the electric window switch surround and the door handles more photos to follow.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:50 pm

KoNLaR wrote:Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!

is that your red puma looks a nice one
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby KoNLaR » Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:18 am

demonskull13 wrote:
KoNLaR wrote:Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!

is that your red puma looks a nice one

Yeah thats mine :) Thanks!
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:04 pm

i have just replaced my drivers side hub as the bearings had gone on my old one and thought instaed of removing the hub and taking it to a garage to press the old ones out and the new ones in it would cost me the same as replacing the hole hub then car wont be off the road whilst waiting for them to be pressed and now my old hubs will have new bearings in when i can afford them.
so to start with i removed the hole hub sorry no photos for this as i was working in the rain and wanted them done then the son came out and so did my camerea.
so below is the drivers side with no hub in.
Image

then i put my new second hand hub in after giving it a good clean and removing any surface rust.
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next to go back on is the disc.
Image
then the calipers went back on.
Image
i have got to put a photo up later of the wheel going on

if you havent done this before it will take you between 2 and 3 hours it was my first time but i have replaced a wishbone and a front susspension before so was pretty familiar with what to do.
and also you idealery need a air commpressor with a air gun for the tack rod end as if you try it with a normal spanner or socket set you would need to some how stop the ball joint moving around in cicles as you cant turn it as fast as a air gun but if you have a commpressor i would recomend a air gun as this is what i used and you can buy them for about £20 off ebay so just using once would pay for itself as a garage would charge more
i hope this helps people out as they can see whats what for reference

:P :thumbs: :pose2: :ok:

jason
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Sun Sep 13, 2015 9:20 pm

hi i had a leaky rocker cover gasket so had to get a new gasket and sealer.
first photo below you can see the oil is up nearly to the top of the h.t. leads
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so i got rid of the excess oil
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then took the rocker cover off engine insides looking good but the old gasket had a gap in it and was very brittol
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another photo of the engine
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then put the gasket in and a bead of sealer all the way round especialy the cambelt side,
and put the gasket on
Image
painted the engine cover to match my colour codes
Image
then all done engine looking good photos to come
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:26 pm

hi i have just done my front brake conversion. things you will need:
:ford fiesta st rs turbo st200 300mm brake caliper conversion £50 off ebay:
:ford focus st170 300mm discs:£22.00 off ebay reduced from £66.00
:drill 12mm:for hub
:13mm socket:for old brake bolts
:15mm socket:for new brake bolts
:14mm spanner for the new caliper pipe to undo:
:10 or 11mm spanner for the origonal pipe to undo:
:hacksaw and file:to cut couple of mill off new bolts lenth
:clingfilm:(cover the top of the brake fluid resivoir to form a vackum and stop loosing fluid when swapping the calipers over)
first get the 4 nuts (come with caliper)and cut a couple of mill off as otherwise they stick out the back and leave little clearance for the disc.
first this is the caliper when i bought it
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then i cleaned them up and painted them purple
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and this is my wheels with the old caliper and discs on
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then i took the wheels off
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and got my 13mm socket and breaker bar on the 2 nuts
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then i got my drill ready with a 12mm drill bit
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and drilled the hole on the hub to 12mm at the top using wd40 as a coolant when drilling
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and then the bottom hole
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then i connected the brake line back on by holding the pipe straight and spinning the caliper on then hanging the caliper on a bungey tighten the pipe
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then slip the new disc on
Image
then bolt the caliper on (15mm) and use threadlock on the tip i done mine up as tight as poss as dont know the tourque settings and dont have a tourque whrench.
Image

then bleed the system.
then front wheel are put back on
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new discs verses old
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old calipers verses new
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old setup
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verses new
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now i just have to bed them in. As soon as i braked could feel the stopping power so much better i did have a judder under bracking before with old setup had put it down to the disc on the drivers side was warped and it was as now its super smooth.

hope this helpe anyone out if they are interested in doing a front brake upgrade its worth it.
turned out cheaper to do this than get new standered pads and discs.

jason
:pose2: :ok:
Last edited by demonskull13 on Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby Frank » Thu Sep 24, 2015 11:47 pm

Looking good. Good write-up, as well.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Fri Sep 25, 2015 12:10 am

car booked in for cambelt change next week
today 01/10/2015 took my puma to the garage to have a new cambelt kit and water pump fitted cost me £248.40. It looks like it hadnt been done since car was new it now has 98630 miles on it. before i had the cambelt done i was experiancing like a electrical rattling sound from front drivers side of the engine could not find the fault but it must have been something to do with the cambelt or pully as now no sound at all. so i think i had the cambelt kit fitted just in time.

jason
:pose2: :ok:
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby demonskull13 » Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:25 pm

hi i had another piece come for my puma they are the front anti roll bar drop links as mine were pretty messy cost £9.06 not bad price.
here they are below and how to fit them.
Image
and one unwrapped
Image
below is the old drop link and you can see the clip what attaches the abs cable this just unclips
Image
then you need to jack up the susspension to gain better access to the bottom nut
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then you can see the bottom nut has better access
Image
Image
now you need a 17mm socket or a 17mm spanner to undo the nut
Image
and onto the top nut you will need one 17mm spanner and a 6mm allen key or if you got one a air socket set
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now just pull old one out push new in and tighten and add the clip for the abs (i painted this purple)
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new one from a different angle
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and the bottom where it joins the roll bar
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and my painted abs clip
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below is a picture of the old anti roll bar drop link showing how to use a 17mm spanner and a 6mm allen key to undo it
Image
Last edited by demonskull13 on Tue Oct 20, 2015 11:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

Postby tuonokid » Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:59 pm

Hi Jason
Just a small point. If you've increased the size of your front discs you might want to have a look at the bracket off the strut that holds the flexi hose as it might be in the wrong place now and be straining the flexi hose as effectively the caliper has moved out 20-30mm (depending on whether you had 240 or 260mm discs). Also if you check the car on full lock with the wheels off you might find that grinding the heads off one of the carpet torx screws will stop it catching on full lock.
Hope that helps :-)
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