project puma mk2 1.7 melina blue

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demonskull13

New member
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
434
Location
worcester
my ford puma project black 1.7 is no more as wrote off on the motorway before christmas:

so now im on my ford puma melina blue 1.7 project 2! its a 1999 car with only 93k miles on it owned by old lady for the past 4 years so hasent been raged engine is a very good one. just normal wheel arch rust worse on drivers side than passengers.It only cost me £350 and all the electrics are working as they should and very good engine. so below is a start for what i am planning to do to my puma 1.7
BUILT NOT BOUGHT

i have a idea of what i am going to be doing to it first job
boot relise switch upgrade using ford ka boot switch-job done
next:neon side lights and indicator-job done
next:double din car stereo/dvd/tv/radio/usb/micro sd card with adapter/reversing camera and sat nav.-job done for now
next:OE HCV £45.00 off ebay bought need fitting just need to buy antifreeze and give system a flush when i have the money.
next:front drivers side abs needs replacing :bought of ebay £10.50 just need to undo 8mm bolt might need to take it to a garage as it is very tight on.garage done nut for me for £10 so i did the rest now no more abs light on after starting -job done
next :backbox sportex off ebay £144.99 order next week job done
next :ap coilovers ebay £326.00 need to save up for. needed before m.o.t in november as on last m.o.t said shocks rusty but not major
next :eek:nto the wheels 17" black wheels & tyres job done
next :ford fiesta st rs turbo st200 300mm brake caliper and ford focus st170 discs conversion job done
today 01/10/2015 dropped car off at the garage to have new cambelt kit and water pump took my own antifreeze as i bought it a while ago to do the h c v but found in recipts had been done by a garage a while ago so cambelt;job done
then when thats done see what to do next i will keep this updated.
below is a photo of the ka release switch i fitted.

below is a photo of the neons i fitted.

below is a photo of the double din stereo i fitted still needs slight adjustment to finish.
 
below is some photos of my car when i purchased it for £350.00










it is in very good condition for a puma that cost me £350.00 with only 93k on the clock
 
I like the radio also, can I ask what model it is please? I would like to fit something similar to my puma but I don't know the first thing about I.C.E and wiring and all that lark.
 
ArtfulHussy said:
I like the radio also, can I ask what model it is please? I would like to fit something similar to my puma but I don't know the first thing about I.C.E and wiring and all that lark.

hi the stereo is on ebay under:
double 2 din HD 7" touch car DVD player GPS SAT Navstereo Radio FM iPod Camera
for:£89.99 & 31.01 postage and packing
first disconnect the battery to stop shorts or elecxtricution

To fit this you will need to take the old stereo out
cut the black peice of plastic off from where the heating controls if you look at where the screws go for the heating control panel, you should see the black bit as its got a bit of a lip on it dont cut any silver out, the black peice is quite easy to cut with a craft knife, this gives you a little more space that you will need with this removed it is still able to put origonal stereo back in.
now for the hard part after this i dont know if the old stereo will go back in as i havent tried it and allready sold it so cant try it :
so next get a hammer and hit the silver runner on the top inside where stereo goes this used to slide the old stereo in when its moved a bit try your double din in if wont go in hit runner more it will be a very tight fit also hit the 2 small bits of metal that are in the top on both sides its trial and error really getting it just right to get the double din in dont push it all the way in as it will be hard to get back out and you cant pull it from the front because of the way the screen moves and pulling it could break it. when the stereo is ready to be fitted you will need to wire it in so hears all the cable colours and what they do:

orange/black battery connection +
green/black didnt use
blue/black didnt use
thin orange/black illumination
thin orange/black didnt use
green/black negative/ground-
thin orange/black didnt use

and for the speakers they are:

white/black +front left
yellow/black -front left
white/purple +rear left
yellow/purple -rear left
white/red +front right
yellow/red -front right
white +rear right
yellow -rear right

problems wiring a sub and amp into a ford puma 1.7

main problems people have like i did myself are :
finding a hole from the engine bay into the car

the way i ended up doing it after a couple of days of looking and trying to work it out is this

first dissconect the battey to stop electricution/ or the car to short out

get a old metal coat hanger or thin stiff cable:
look under the bonnet you will see where the fuse box is pull water seal off just to get in furfer and let you take the top of the fuse box.take top of fuse box off to give you more room to play with look at the rubber gator which has the wiring loom going through get a hobby knife and cut a small cross on the left hand side of the gator being carefull not to cut wires in wiring loom then:
push the wire in it should be quite tight its best to get it as tight as you can to stop water leaks if you dont cut it big enough you can allways make it bigger but not smaller
push the wire in untill you can see it under the passenger side dash:
then get the red live cable and put a circular terminal on the live cable and hook coat hanger/wire through the hole so it dosent slip off.
pull the coat hanger/ wire from inside the car you will get to where the join is then you will have to pull it quite hard, dont worry about the gator going in as you can sort this later when the join has gone through it will go in easier and because its just a small cut it should still be waterproof. you can sort the gator now if its gone slightly in really easy to do.
after that run the live cable under the carpet to the back of the car and also run the remote cable on the same side from the stereo.
then its just the aux cable remove dash surround, so you can feed the cable behind and then under the carpet run to back of the car, the reason for running the live and remote down the passengers side and the aux cable down the drivers is to keep them as far apart as possible to stop getting interfearence form the live cables an distorting the sound.
then just wire the sub and amp up. Then the last job is to connect the power cable from the battery to the live cable . you should have left anough cable in the bonnet to get to the fuse box ect. now you can reconnect the battery if your happy you have done it right
i havent found anywhere that tells you how to do this so
hopefully this will help people wanting to wire a sub and amp in a puma
sorry about the lenth of this but just checking i covered everything if you want to be able to switch your sub on/off use blank button on dash & put a switch in to switch on/off.

if fitting a rear camera in run the video cable down drivers side,
you can run the ipod wire from stereo into the glove box easyly
and ive put a Digital T.V box into the clove compartment also.
then just reconnect the battery.
i also have just bought a sat nav card it is on ebay under:
IG08 replacement universal Double Din Software 8"7"6.8"6.2" Xtrons/Erisin
for £12.00 free postage and packing.

hope this helps with what your after and how to set it up any questions ask me

i cant take the blame for anyone doing this and getting it wrong if you feel like its a bit much of a challenge please ask someone you know who knows what there doing.

hope this helps.

Jason

:p 8) :thumbs: :D
 
Wooooaah-kaay.

I won't be attempting that one myself! :lol:

Very much a spanner and hammer car enthusiast, think I'll leave the lecky stuff to a professional.
 
You could do as Ford did with the Platinum sound option
and take the power for the amp from the heated windscreen circuit.
(unless you want an insanely powerful amp of course)
This is easily found just behind the stereo..
 
trublustu said:
You could do as Ford did with the Platinum sound option
and take the power for the amp from the heated windscreen circuit.
(unless you want an insanely powerful amp of course)
This is easily found just behind the stereo..
so if your saying you could use the heated windscreen circuit,,could you also use the live off the cigarette lighter as im sure both would probably use the same amount of current?
just enquiring about this for other users;
because i have got a very loud amp and it needs to be wired to the battery!

:thumbs:

Jason
 
hi i am going to share with you today my sub and amp install.

first i have cleared everything from the boot and the inside looks great with no rust/flackey paint or damage it is mint below.


then i have got a peice of plywood and measured it buy simply drawing around the boot carpet outside the car then trying it in the car below.


then i cut out the slot for the sub woother below.note i also cut out the peice for the spare wheel release screw.



next i tried the sub into the slot i cut for it below.



next i built the sub frame in the car by measuring and putting in and marking where each beam goes below.

then i took each beam out by itself and nailed it to the next part of the sub frame the sub frame is now done below.



then by pushing the rear seats down the sub frame can go in note its not attached to the car atall because when you put the rear seats back up it locks it in place picture below.





then i got the plywood out again sloted it in and put the amp under the space i left it ready to have a perspex window fitted to see amp i will up date when i do this now it looks like this with plywood back in below



then next i got the origonal carpet and using the plywood as a guide cut out the space where the sub is going so now it looks like this below









and thats it job done no more cables on display, sub locks in when rear seats are up and under the board i carry a few odds and ends e.g little bottle of water just in case jubili clips, and the wheel nut undoer.

hope this helps anyone who wants a sub with no wires storage space protection from shopping, and a tiedy boot

Jason

:p 8) :grin: :twisted:
 
below is a photo of my ford puma with second hand 17" alloys on not sure whether to have them powder coated white or keep them black.


and below is the tip of my sporteck exhaust.

and below is a photo of my second hand alternator painter with heat res spray looking good ready to go on when get the chance of a dry day


my new sporteck backbox.

and another photo of it.
 
Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!
 
KoNLaR said:
Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!
yes i am after the leather interior and as for rest of engine bay the engine cover is also purple and alot of the interior is also will put pictures up soon!
p.s. yes exhaust sounds great not to loud but a lovely rumble.


:thumbs: :pose2: :pose:
 
heres the centre console getting ready to be sprayed



more masking


rest of masking


rest of masking ready for primer


primer sprayed

3 coats purple i use the heat res stuff as its the same color as my alternator ect.

ready to go back in car

a good veiw through the puma you can see the centre console and dash surround

good veiw of the centre console and dash surround

i have also done the electric window switch surround and the door handles more photos to follow.
 
KoNLaR said:
Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!
is that your red puma looks a nice one
 
demonskull13 said:
KoNLaR said:
Looking good! I think original alloy colour/chrome would suit the wheels and rest of the car very well.

The alternator is also a very nice touch, do you plan to dress up the engine bay even more? Would love to see some pictures when its in :)

Hows the backbox too, does it give a nice sound from it? :)

Car looking very good, really like the colour. Almost like a FRP! Have you also considered doing something to the interior, would look great with leather or something like the FRP interior.

Keep up the good work, looking forward to see more!
is that your red puma looks a nice one
Yeah thats mine :) Thanks!
 
i have just replaced my drivers side hub as the bearings had gone on my old one and thought instaed of removing the hub and taking it to a garage to press the old ones out and the new ones in it would cost me the same as replacing the hole hub then car wont be off the road whilst waiting for them to be pressed and now my old hubs will have new bearings in when i can afford them.
so to start with i removed the hole hub sorry no photos for this as i was working in the rain and wanted them done then the son came out and so did my camerea.
so below is the drivers side with no hub in.


then i put my new second hand hub in after giving it a good clean and removing any surface rust.

next to go back on is the disc.

then the calipers went back on.

i have got to put a photo up later of the wheel going on

if you havent done this before it will take you between 2 and 3 hours it was my first time but i have replaced a wishbone and a front susspension before so was pretty familiar with what to do.
and also you idealery need a air commpressor with a air gun for the tack rod end as if you try it with a normal spanner or socket set you would need to some how stop the ball joint moving around in cicles as you cant turn it as fast as a air gun but if you have a commpressor i would recomend a air gun as this is what i used and you can buy them for about £20 off ebay so just using once would pay for itself as a garage would charge more
i hope this helps people out as they can see whats what for reference

:p :thumbs: :pose2: :eek:k:

jason
 
hi i had a leaky rocker cover gasket so had to get a new gasket and sealer.
first photo below you can see the oil is up nearly to the top of the h.t. leads

so i got rid of the excess oil

then took the rocker cover off engine insides looking good but the old gasket had a gap in it and was very brittol

another photo of the engine

then put the gasket in and a bead of sealer all the way round especialy the cambelt side,
and put the gasket on

painted the engine cover to match my colour codes

then all done engine looking good photos to come
 

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