"El Puma"

Do you have a Puma that is a project? Do you want to track the progress with your own thread? Feel free to do it here.

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JAC
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Post by JAC » Thu Sep 07, 2017 5:37 pm

Wild E. Coyote wrote: No, that would be Idle Air Valve. Finis 1030996
Thank you kind sir. I certainly hope this clears the stalling problem once and for all!
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Post by JAC » Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:07 pm

Well, as an update...

I still haven't had chance to change the Idle Air Valve. Lately the car stalls at most crossroads so I decided I must get it done.

So, as I am always tight on time lately, I asked the garage to quote me on it... 220€ !!

My question is, seeing that I can find the part for 30€ in a multitud of places, is it really that difficult to swap that they want 180€ in labor?
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Mon Apr 23, 2018 7:46 pm

No, it is literally 5 min job. It is that thingy on inlet manifold AFTER the throttle buterfly
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Post by RoadWarrior » Tue Apr 24, 2018 1:41 am

The garage is ripping you off.

It's literally a two minute job, open bonnet, undo two bolts and put new one in. Reverse removal and it's done.

Image

Circled it for you above. Two 10MM bolts, and a plug behind to remove. :wink:
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Post by JAC » Tue Apr 24, 2018 7:33 am

Thanks guys, that certainly looks simple enough!
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Post by JAC » Tue Apr 24, 2018 9:36 am

I am guessing that I should also replace the gasket at the same time?

This is the ICV that the search for Finis 1030996 returns (sorry, it's in spanish):

https://www.recambioscoches.es/era/2474408

Searching the forum I came up with the code Finis 7165249 for the gasket, however, none of the places I can source the ICV here seem to carry the gasket. I only get UK and Russian results!!

Is this the correct gasket, if so, should I just make my own?

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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:13 pm

Just cut out your own gasket and that's it
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Post by RoadWarrior » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:10 am

Buy some gasket paper, it's literally pennies. Get your old or new ICV and put tippex on it and then put it on the paper and then cut out the holes. Easy. The shop will just leave the old one on, they usually stick to the inlet manifold or come off and can be reused if not ripped.
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Post by JAC » Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:43 am

Thanks guys, that seems like a plan.

Good tip on using tippex, I have always tried to trace on paper and then copy across, that seems like an easier way of doing it.
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Post by JAC » Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:48 am

I finally managed to get the ICV changed!

I read through this thread again from the beginning, and after 2 and half years of the car stalling on me, it seems it is finally fixed!!!

After swapping out the ICV, I did the ECU reset as it wasn't running well (it was jumping from 1000 to 1500 rpm constantly), but a reset seems to have cured it and it has been fine with no stalls for the last 3 days I have been driving it.

So, one thing to finally cross off the list, just 200 more to go :D

Thanks to all of you that gave input and helped me with this!
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Post by JAC » Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:46 am

After a couple of weeks, it seems that the stalling issue is finally resolved. The car does still drop to 500RPM when braking with the clutch in, but this doesn't cause it to stall anymore.

However, when the A/C is switched on, the car seems to not be running smoothly. It is fine most of the time, but when sticking to a constant speed/revs, it feels like the car misses slightly. It is not a missfire or anything really bad, but it just doesn't feel smooth. I checked the air filter and somehow there is only one bolt holding it together now. Both of the rear bolts are missing the nuts below, so the air filter box cover is only resting on the bottom half. I'm not having much luck getting new nuts to fit, but I have yet to take it apart completely to see if I can repair it that way.

The strange thing is that the non-smoothness only happens when the A/C is on. With the A/C off it runs fine.

Apart from fixing the the air filter box, any other ideas on what to check that may be causing this?
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Post by DOH » Tue Jul 10, 2018 12:43 pm

Check for air leaks at the Servo and also the cluster of vacuum hoses(approx 4 of them) including the rubber blanking plug cap . They are located between the idle control valve and the throttle body. Also check at the other end of each of the hoses. The blanking plug cap has been known to split due to age.
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Post by CherryVimto » Tue Jul 10, 2018 1:13 pm

Running the A/C takes power from the engine and it is easy to notice!

With the car running at idle, turning on the A/C will cause the revs to drop, but the ECU will pull the revs back up. When the A/C cycle turns off it is possible the revs will jump up a little so the ECU will drop them back down again. While the A/C is on it will cycle like this.... up, down, up, down.

When the A/C cuts in while you are driving you may feel a short dip in power from the engine.
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Post by JAC » Tue Jul 10, 2018 6:06 pm

Thanks @DOH, I'll see if I get chance over the weekend to have a look.

@CherryVimto, thanks for the input but this doesn't seem to be related to the switching on/off of the A/C. With the A/C constant (the A/C doesn't automatically turn on off as there is no ambient temperature control) it is like there is a slight air intake issue (or fuel) but only a slight stutter, not enough for a passenger to notice.
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Jul 10, 2018 7:57 pm

JAC, the compressor is not switched on constantly. When you switch the A/C on, the ECU is running the compressor and it is switching on and off all the time (to minimise the fuel consumption). The hesitation you complain about is normal and you feel it when the compressor is switched on. The newer cars with fly-by-wire throttle don't behave in such way as the ECU (since it is already controlling the throttle) compensates for the compressor switching on and you don't feel these jerks. Puma has cable operated throttle and ECU can't compensate in that way so you feel it.
The thing that further complicates matters is the fact that puma uses just about the biggest A/C compressor you can imagine. Because of that A/C is extremely efficient, but those jerks are significant and can be and are felt
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Post by JAC » Wed Jul 11, 2018 3:53 pm

Ok, understood. Maybe it is the air con that is causing the issue. To be honest, I have had plenty of older cars with A/C (before the fly-by-wire) and never experienced this issue, but it could be that they didn't have a oversized compressor like the Puma does. I am used to the loss of power when the A/C kicks in (as experienced with many of the cars mentioned above) but this doesn't feel like a loss of power, the only thing I can sort of compare it to is when I used to do motocross etc. and the dirt/dust built up in the air filter. If it wasn't for the fact that it only does it when the A/C is on, the air filter would have been my first guess.

Anyways, thanks for the input Wild E. (and CherryVimto) regarding this, as I said, it isn't really an issue, just more of an annoyance.
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Post by JAC » Thu Oct 04, 2018 5:27 pm

Bit of a scare last week when I was called over the PA of a Supermarket to urgently go to the parking lot. On my way there I was told the Puma was on fire!!

As I made it to the car, a worker pointed out how much "smoke" was pouring out of the engine as he ran to break the glass on a fire hose. I managed to convince him to wait for a moment until I opened the bonnet before he got crazy with the water.

Sure enough, the coolant tank had punctured and was spraying a small stream of coolant on top of the hot engine. :roll:

50€ later it was fixed and has a new coolant tank. However, the smell of burning coolant takes a long time to go away, and smells awful!! :-D
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Post by red » Thu Oct 04, 2018 9:16 pm

Phew! Glad it wasn't on fire!
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Post by JAC » Fri Oct 05, 2018 8:17 am

Me too!!
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