The "If I can do it, you can" thread...

Do you have a Puma that is a project? Do you want to track the progress with your own thread? Feel free to do it here.

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The "If I can do it, you can" thread...

Postby tuonokid » Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:54 am

Enjoy your bleeding :grin:
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
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Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

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Postby g-whizz » Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:29 pm

Having checked out Continental Direct, I've gone with the Pagids (£28 the pair) as it seems CD are nothing to do with Continental and there were some less than glowing reports on other items they do, such as drop links. So cheers for recommendation Barry :ok:
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Postby g-whizz » Wed Nov 23, 2016 11:17 pm

....hmmm... well I thought I was getting the Pagid ones... I mean the listing was for Pagid, and I paid for Pagid but I got...
Image001 by G Whizz, on Flickr

Not best pleased... got on to the seller asking why and how come only one when two ordered at same time? They simply said send it back... so replied that means more days with the vehicle off road and doesn't explain why it not Pagid or why only one? Different customer service person replied "We only have Pagid, so we will just do a refund." ....???! Eh? If you only did Pagid we wouldn't be having this conversation mush... and does that mean I still need to return for a refund because if it does I still have to source a new part and so am still off road for days longer?! :evil:

Getting rather fed up of the delays, I've fitted the brake hose anyway... so after getting all that off my chest (deep breaths, whale song in background, stroke earlobes, say "hoozaaah".... ah, that's better)... I'll fill in how to do it for those who haven't tried... like most of these things, it's quite simple... if you know how, which I didn't, not having done it before :grin:

So, seemingly simply, the bottom end (red arrow in photo immediately below) that goes into the calliper (it's an 11mm open end spanner needed to tighten it up) and in the middle (blue arrow) there's a bracket attaching to the strut that needs a 15mm spanner or socket for the nut...

Image002 by G Whizz, on Flickr

It's at the top that things get a little more interesting but it's still very simple really, once you know how. The top is also held by a bracket but connects to a copper brake pipe as well.

Check out this photo:

ImageIMG_2495 by G Whizz, on Flickr

If you look at this part of the job for the first time there are two sections that can take a spanner, one on the copper brake pipe (the top blue arrow) and the other on the top end of the brake flexi hose (the bottom red) but it isn't immediately obvious which bit you put it on to slack off and release the brake hose. Indeed, given that the copper pipe is obviously not flexible, you might think it's got to be the hose you move... it's not.

First though, at the middle (double-headed) arrow is a locating clip, if things are rusty it isn't easy to spot, but it sits on top of the bracket and slots into a groove on the brake hose connection. I used a smallish flathead srewdriver to pull it out.

The fixing at the bottom of the copper brake pipe is a nut that will rotate... mine though was seized and was in danger of shearing the pipe if I started turning it, which of course really threw me as it seemed neither the bottom part (which is held by the bracket) nor the top part would move without something shearing. Being in something of a quandary, I texted my mechanic mate who explained that the top was seized and asked if I had a blow torch to warm it... I had nothing but my own natural hot air and some WD40 but thankfully the WD and a bit of gentle jiggling to and fro eventually did it, or I'd have been blowing on it still now :lol:

So, in a nutshell to change the hose you simply undo the nut on the strut bracket; remove the locating clip (double-headed arrow) then undo the bottom connector going into the calliper and then undo the top brake pipe connector. To fit the new one simply reverse. Should look a bit like this...

ImageIMG_2496 by G Whizz, on Flickr

You'll need to wipe off any spilt brake fluid and then spray some brake cleaner over it as well to clean everything up. Don't forget to bleed the brakes after either... you can look that up online, it's how I did it and isn't Puma specific.

So, now I'm the proud owner of an ST170 300mm conversion... and a bit more Puma knowledge :wink:

I do have one question to throw out there guys, as I've just noticed it in the bottom photo: the end part of the flexi hose seems relatively taught, can it be fed through the bracket apperture and the wire protector or is it fixed to those bits?
Last edited by g-whizz on Wed Nov 23, 2016 11:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby tuonokid » Wed Nov 23, 2016 11:30 pm

Hi Greg
Yes, but you'll have to unravel the bracket as it goes around the hose a little bit as it's pretty tight. The reason that it's tight is that your caliper entry is now 20 mm further away than what it was.
Barry
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Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
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Postby g-whizz » Thu Nov 24, 2016 12:02 am

tuonokid wrote:Source of the post Hi Greg
Yes, but you'll have to unravel the bracket as it goes around the hose a little bit as it's pretty tight. The reason that it's tight is that your caliper entry is now 20 mm further away than what it was.
Barry

Hi Barry, when you say "unravel" is that prising apart the bit the hose goes through to then slide the hose down and give some slack lower down, or, am I not catching your meaning?
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Nov 24, 2016 12:12 am

Hi Greg
That's exactly it, it's tightly coiled around the brake hose so you'll have to use a blunt screwdriver to lever it apart without damaging the hose. Tricky but do-able.
Sos about late reply, talktalk broadband shite tonight.
Barry
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

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Postby g-whizz » Thu Nov 24, 2016 12:14 am

tuonokid wrote:Source of the post Hi Greg
That's exactly it, it's tightly coiled around the brake hose so you'll have to use a blunt screwdriver to lever it apart without damaging the hose. Tricky but do-able.
Sos about late reply, talktalk broadband shite tonight.
Barry

Cheers Barry :ok: (Only) posted about 10 mins before, so yeah.. your standards slipping :lol:
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Nov 24, 2016 12:17 am

Yeah Talktalk make me look really bad..... to**ers!!!! :grin:
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

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Postby g-whizz » Tue Feb 07, 2017 11:38 pm

I first fell for the Puma back in '97 when my then girlfriend got one new. My regular drive back then was actually a restored 5a Reliant Scimitar rebuilt with a Rover V8. It was all hairy chested, twin stainless exhausted, RWD fun and really rather roarty and manly; so much so that I even considered wearing driving gloves and changing my name to Dirk. :-)

Then we went car hunting for her and I test drove the Puma, I'd previously been rather scornful of FWD cars but it was a complete revelation, so chuckable and such an enjoyable drive, I was a bit smitten by Ford's new kitten!

Despite the ignorant 'girl's car' comments around at the time I took every opportunity to drive it, though always with two reservations about it: one was a fear that'd I'd begin to develop a taste for musical theatre; the other that the seats were so bad they'd leave me walking like someone who enjoyed musical theatre, a lot!

In the intervening years I've learnt that the girlie car comments are basically just a result of ignorance (and that jokes about musicals and walking funny are possibly not far off the same :-) ) but the one thing that has remained steadfast is my cripplingly low opinion of the Puma's seats: they are a complete pain in the ass, or the lower back in my case.

So, nearly 2 decades on I have my own Puma to play with and I'm not standing, or sitting, for it any more! They gotta go. But what to replace them with? Within the range only the Millie seats were of interest and a set came up (with obligatory butchered bolsters) but I fancy something else, if I can get 'em to fit:

ImageIMG_20170207_161634 by G Whizz, on Flickr

They are "Tombstones" from a Gen 4 Honda Prelude. I really like the look, but more importantly they are super comfy and get a hold of you like Donald Trump with a beauty contestant.

ImageIMG_20170207_152611 by G Whizz, on Flickr

Meanwhile, I got hold of a set of later Puma seats for a comparison (my car is a '99 so slightly different) and the seat rails are roughly same dimensions as the Puma's: the Honda, centre to centre of rail mounting holes, is 43cm wide & 34.5cm long. The Ford is 41.5 & 34 but the seat is offset from the mounts. It is overall roughly 54cm at the widest point due to that, with Honda a cm or two less.

ImageIMG_20170207_152636 by G Whizz, on Flickr

Before I go removing my own seats to check, I thought I'd throw this out to all those who have done seat swaps, removed their interior etc. etc.- from the photos, what do you see as possible pitfalls?

ImageIMG_20170207_154543 by G Whizz, on Flickr

My first concern is that offset mounting, what's it to clear on the car and is it a problem for the straight mounting Hondas? The front mounting hole on the Hondas would need cutting and flattening/straightening and I'd probably have to ditch the pre-tensioners.

Anything else spring to mind guys? Solutions, if you got 'em, also welcome :ok:

Edit-P.S. swapping Puma mounting bracketry onto Honda rails one option am wondering about, or, Honda seat onto Puma base if possible, which would mean keeping pre-tensioner.
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Postby g-whizz » Wed Feb 08, 2017 11:34 pm

Hmmm, judging by the lack of suggestions/advice, perhaps for this idea I should change the thread name to "If I can do this you'll be bloody amazed!" :lol:
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Feb 09, 2017 12:07 am

Hi Greg
I'd keep the pre-tensioners if you can even if you have to adapt the seats slightly as they can be life savers.
Barry
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
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Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
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Postby g-whizz » Thu Feb 09, 2017 12:59 am

tuonokid wrote:Source of the post Hi Greg
I'd keep the pre-tensioners if you can even if you have to adapt the seats slightly as they can be life savers.
Barry


Hi Barry, yeah definitely preferred option, first thing will be to try and get some early Puma seat rails & see if I can fit the Honda's to them, or some fiesta 3.5 runners maybe? I did get a spare set of Puma seats but they are the later ones and even after doing a bit of site searching I'm still not clear on whether they will fit my '99? If they did then would just swap over the pre-tensioners.
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Feb 09, 2017 2:02 am

Hi Greg
It's a minefield trying to fit seats from another car nowadays as the mountings differ so much. In the old days you would have had four boltholes in the floor in a square pattern but those days have gone now. I had a look at my early to late Puma mountings when I switched seats and there's not so much difference. If your car is from 99 a set of Millie Recaros may go straight in without any modifications, just ask James to make sure.
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

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Postby g-whizz » Thu Feb 09, 2017 4:46 pm

tuonokid wrote:Source of the post Hi Greg
It's a minefield trying to fit seats from another car nowadays as the mountings differ so much. In the old days you would have had four boltholes in the floor in a square pattern but those days have gone now. I had a look at my early to late Puma mountings when I switched seats and there's not so much difference. If your car is from 99 a set of Millie Recaros may go straight in without any modifications, just ask James to make sure.
Barry


Hi Barry, I might have to go the Millie route but want to explore the Tombstones first, having had another look I think the easiest solution might be drilling out & taking off the Puma mounting brackets, attaching them to Honda rails & then drilling the rails from side & attaching the pre-tensioners. I did find a set of Fiesta 3.5 rails, which would have been a simple swap it looks like but the guy's asking £99 for them!! Seems just a little OTT.
P.S. I thought you'd achieved 'Guru' status the other day? Have you been returned to the ranks? :grin:
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Feb 09, 2017 5:25 pm

Hi Greg
Just had a look at my old seats as I have yet to put them in the loft. The rails and the structure looks so complicated from underneath, I hope you can manage to separate it all out.
I'd never noticed my status until you mentioned it but it looks like I've I've been promoted to an Elder which may be particularly apt :-)
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Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
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Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

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Postby g-whizz » Thu Feb 09, 2017 6:35 pm

tuonokid wrote:Source of the post Hi Greg
Just had a look at my old seats as I have yet to put them in the loft. The rails and the structure looks so complicated from underneath, I hope you can manage to separate it all out.
I'd never noticed my status until you mentioned it but it looks like I've I've been promoted to an Elder which may be particularly apt :-)


Aye, they are a box of snakes... Reckon that why easiest option is just drilling out Puma mounts and attaching to Honda's rails. Just need to source a set of early seats for their mounts so I know it matches what I already have & that way I can get it all done off the car & then just swap over.
My plans already changed a bit as just got these for the rears:
Imagephoto by G Whizz, on Flickr

From another '99 but I'd not seen that design before, so might be looking to retrim the Hondas eventually to match.

Re. status, pretty sure it said "Guru" the other day, perhaps it was deemed too meteoric a rise? Feared you'd go all Keith Moon on us and there'd be a Puma in the pool before y'know it! :lol:
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Feb 09, 2017 7:18 pm

Hi Greg
Aye those new rears do look unusual, are they leather?
I don't really care about the status thing as long as the next one isn't martyr :grin: .
Barry
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2001 ColOrado red Puma 1.7, work in progress.
Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
Fiesta Style 1.25
Aprilia Tuono Factory.
1975 Yamaha TY80
Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

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Postby g-whizz » Thu Feb 09, 2017 7:46 pm

tuonokid wrote:Source of the post Hi Greg
Aye those new rears do look unusual, are they leather?
I don't really care about the status thing as long as the next one isn't martyr :grin: .
Barry


Aye, leather, I did wonder if they were a re-trim but the chap reckons not? Maybe an option in '99, or even a Euro interior? I like the design though, they a bit Millie-like but funkier to my eye, be interesting to see if the fronts are normal seats with that design or more Recaro? I will find out soon enough, he's not far from you, in Barnsley, so hoping to kill two birds etc. weekend after this? :ok:
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Feb 09, 2017 8:03 pm

Hi Greg
I wonder if it's the guy who I bought my door cards from as he was in Barnsley and had some leather seats for sale but he wanted too much for them plus the seats were a bit shorter in the leg support wise.
Yeah, combine the trips together, remind me nearer the time and I'll get the kettle on and the custard creams out.
Barry
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Westfield SEIW 1800 Zetec.
Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
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Now working on my sons Anglia 105e

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Postby g-whizz » Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:14 pm

First, cheers to those who took the time to respond to my "Help Me!" thread re. my locked up lambda. :ok:

So, I'd noticed the Puma wasn't running smoothly & was a little smokey. I initially feared that maybe the previous cambelt trouble hadn't been such a lucky escape after all and had actually caused a bit of valve damage but getting it on the scanner revealed a very erratic lambda reading.

Mine being a '99 it only had the one sensor and if you find you need to replace it & don't actually know where it is....(of course I knew where it was, I was not looking underneath the car for it, I'd simply lost a contact lens, or something, down there) it's actually pretty easy to locate... see if you can spot it in this photo:
Imagephoto (1) by G Whizz, on Flickr

So, after popping in the lens I'd dropped of course, I looked, gave a hearty laugh while slapping my thigh and said: "This is a doddle. It's a two minute job!"

Three days later I was still saying it but while rocking back and forth in the corner of my shed.

First, I tried just cleaning the sensor's electrical contacts in the hope I could actually make it a one minute job, it's worth a shot & obviously is a lot cheaper if it works but my sensor was past it. Thankfully, I managed to source an OE aftermarket one for only £18 by cross referencing part numbers.

Just pop it out and job done thinks I but it soon became apparent that space is rather limited (removing heat shields did little to improve matters) and more annoying again is that it sits in a slight valley in the manifold... so your normal spanners are pretty useless, as are your standard sockets due to the sensor wires. So, more dosh, this time on a specific 22mm lambda socket. Hahaha, now I gotcha!

Unfortunately, I suspect that it was the original sensor and over the last 17 years it had formed quite an attachment to the exhaust manifold, so much so that, despite soaking it in WD40, when force was applied it remained steadfast & simply spread the jaws of the lambda socket & slipped off, resulting in red knuckles and blue air.

After enlisting the wise council previously referred to, I was back to spending some dosh, this time on some PlusGas and a deep impact socket set. After another soak, cutting the wires to ensure the 22mm deep socket fitted (just) & grabbing the breaker bar I finally prevailed:
Imagephoto (2) by G Whizz, on Flickr

It wasn't just my knuckles that suffered though. The eagle-eyed among you may have noticed a rather dodgy looking engine to chassis earth strap in the first photo? Well, with only the slightest of touches it broke in two. The original (on the right) looks rather weedy so I decided on beefing it up:
Imagephoto (3) by G Whizz, on Flickr

I whipped this up and now am also considering doing a Big 3 (or 4) electrical upgrade:
Imagephoto (4) by G Whizz, on Flickr

So, all back in place and looking a bit neater too:
Imagephoto (5) by G Whizz, on Flickr

Another job done, total cost of £46 in the end but still cheaper than going to a garage I reckon, plus expanded the tool kit and my experience. MOT on Saturday, fingers crossed!
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Postby tuonokid » Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:18 pm

Well done and good luck Greg :-)
Barry
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Building Westfield SEI 2.0 Zetec Blacktop on TBs.
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Postby Frank » Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:53 pm

g-whizz wrote:Source of the post The eagle-eyed among you may have noticed a rather dodgy looking engine to chassis earth strap in the first photo? Well, with only the slightest of touches it broke in two. The original (on the right) looks rather weedy so I decided on beefing it up:

The original is a weedy looking thing, isn't it, considering how important it is. Mine was looking frail, but did test OK, when I was checking the starting system on mine. So, I replaced it - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305-mm-12-Car ... 33c5822442

The only thing of note, is that Ford has a bizarre habit of earthing to painted metal parts, so you're only getting thread to thread earth contact! Just do a 1 inch (2.54 cm) circle of bright metal around the bulkhead thread hole (2 mins with Dremmel or Stanley knife + coarse sandpaper) and you'll have a true earth contact that even the gods themselves would be proud of.

Btw told you that PlusGas was good, didn't I? :grin:
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Postby Wild E. Coyote » Fri Feb 17, 2017 9:41 am

Congrats! As we say the smarter one will let go, and lambda did let go :wink:

Btw, that earth strap is there just to eliminate noise from stereo system. It's job is to equalise the earthing potential of stereo and the rest of the car to eliminate buzzing. So, no need for going extra beefy on the cable. And one word of advice: both cables should be heat insluated as this is very hot (the hottest actually) area of engine bay. You may have noticed that original earthing strap was not insulated exactly because of that and lambda had special, heat resistant insulation. I would strongly suggest to cover both with some aluminum tape or something similar that will radiate heat back
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g-whizz
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Model: 1.7
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The "If I can do it, you can" thread...

Postby g-whizz » Fri Feb 17, 2017 11:30 am

Frank wrote:Source of the post

The only thing of note... do a 1 inch (2.54 cm) circle of bright metal around the bulkhead thread hole (2 mins with Dremmel or Stanley knife + coarse sandpaper) and you'll have a true earth contact that even the gods themselves would be proud of.

Btw told you that PlusGas was good, didn't I? :grin:

Hi Frank, aye gave it a bit of a scrape under the chassis connection and yeah, PlusGas it is for me from now on, mind, I suspect a proper beefy socket helped too instead of that slack jawed affair :-)

Wild E. Coyote wrote:Source of the post Congrats! As we say the smarter one will let go, and lambda did let go :wink:

Btw, that earth strap is there just to eliminate noise from stereo system. It's job is to equalise the earthing potential of stereo and the rest of the car to eliminate buzzing. So, no need for going extra beefy on the cable. And one word of advice: both cables should be heat insluated as this is very hot (the hottest actually) area of engihe bay... I would strongly suggest to cover both with some aluminum tape or something similar that will radiate heat back


Hi Sinisa,
Ah, that explains my love life then! :grin:
Cheers for tip re. aluminium tape, I did wonder & routed the earth cable up & away as best I could but am always happy with the 'belt and braces' approach. Will get it sorted. :ok:
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My goals are world peace, and a piece of the world... if my plans for a benevolent dictatorship ever come together.

At the moment though am too busy with this: viewtopic.php?t=29348

g-whizz
Project Regular
Project Regular
Posts: 285
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:20 pm
Model: 1.7
Location: Southport

The "If I can do it, you can" thread...

Postby g-whizz » Sat Feb 18, 2017 9:20 pm

MOT sorted, just one advisory for an oil leak from that annoying pattern rocker gasket I've been meaning to change for ages... and now I have! Huzzah!

It's also had new links & 'bones, though I must confess, I didn't do 'em :shock: this was down to my jack playing up and my mechanic mate kindly sorting for just £25. Sometimes it's nice to have a Loreal moment, though £25 is definitely about the limit of my worth :-)

Also dropped in some new Ring Xenon Ultima as got 'em for just £13 the pair, my grin at the price slipped a bit though when on removing the driver's lamp I faced this:

Imagephoto (6) by G Whizz, on Flickr

Seems the previous owner had been up to something, mainly breaking the seal and the lugs from what I can tell, and then just put it back with a single cable tie holding it all together, I love a bit of craftsmanship :lol: Still, it had stayed in there all the time I've had it so, until I can get a replacement sorted, back it's gone.... but (inspired by Rich's new FRP thread) with the luxury of 2 new cable ties! :wink:
0 x
My goals are world peace, and a piece of the world... if my plans for a benevolent dictatorship ever come together.

At the moment though am too busy with this: viewtopic.php?t=29348


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