FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

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xnbradley
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:37 pm

What is this...

jacko wrote:Source of the post JANSPEED; RACING PUMA OWNERS CLUB. you have to be a member to buy these but they are not asking for membership numbers to prove this. they have used the original jigs to make these and also using a janspeed stainless backbox. added bonus is that it comes with the original tailpipe.


Are these still available?

Thanks
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Mon Dec 12, 2016 10:10 pm

Just found the receipt from 2012...

currently have a Piper CAT on the car from Pumabuild...

What to do...
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby XAF » Tue Dec 13, 2016 12:10 am

Are you sure it's the cat, not a lambda, dirty air filter, plugs, leads, coil pack, MAF etc?

The FRP cats are very sensitive to proper emissions control. One part slightly out (like the tiny wire in the MAF) could be enough to foul the readings.

I've got a Piper cat and it's well within emissions, even when not toasty hot.
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Tue Dec 13, 2016 12:18 am

to be honest... i haven't got a clue...

I sprayed the MAF with Carb cleaner the other day... air filter looked pretty clean... no idea how to test the lambda leads... can you do that with ForScan?

I will chat though the above with the mechanic tomorrow...

Just trying to source the Goodridge hose and adapters so I can at least get it back home...

not a good day...
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby Wild E. Coyote » Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:46 am

If you sprayed MAF with carb cleaner it is not working as it should. Carb cleaner leaves an oily surface for lubrication purposes (as carb has moving parts). After carb cleaner apply some brake cleaner to degrease it properly.
How is your idle? When cleaned with brake cleaner it should be rock steady and engine should get more responsive
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Wed Dec 14, 2016 1:02 am

So...

today I have ordered a stainless Steel mid section from Chris and a couple of hose fittings to fix the PAS hose...

heart breaking stuff owning a FRP... I just want to get her back on the road...

oh well...
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby tuonokid » Wed Dec 14, 2016 1:11 am

Hi Christian
You'll get there in the end :-)
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby gingerdave » Wed Dec 14, 2016 2:46 pm

xnbradley wrote:Source of the post So...

today I have ordered a stainless Steel mid section from Chris and a couple of hose fittings to fix the PAS hose...

heart breaking stuff owning a FRP... I just want to get her back on the road...

oh well...

Heart breaking?...sounds more like bank breaking.NEVER LET IT BEAT YOU!!!
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby DOH » Thu Dec 15, 2016 11:09 pm

Re :High CO readings for MOT
Things to try are as follows:

1) have you ensured that the airfilter is clean?
2) Search for info I posted about testing the lambda sensor resistance readings of 13 ohms, If the pre heater is open circuit. (IIrc 2 the grey wires? , verified by carrying out an ohms test ,)then your idle readings & idle will be affected.http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=17895&p=229512&hilit=lambda+sensor+ohms#p229512
3) Remove and clean Lambda sensor with Carb Cleaner
4) Clean the injectors, they maybe gummed up and not closing off fully and therefore weeping fuel into the engine, which can also result in high CO readings
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Fri Dec 16, 2016 8:14 pm

So...

From the M to the O to the T... #032 is finally free...

New stainless steel mid section fitted... passed emissions with flying colours...

Fast Idle CO Max 0.20% - passed at 0.01%
Natural Idle CO Max 0.30% - passed T 0.05%

and this was when the engine was not hot at all...

Thanks to Chris for sorting the CAT out for me...

One of the best journeys so far... so glad I have another 12 months to restore the car to its former glory...

gonna take a rest over Christmas and will start again in the new year... maybe I need to make a list and come up with a schedule of what and when to do things...

may go for a drive tomorrow... for no apparent reason...

be good...
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby tuonokid » Fri Dec 16, 2016 8:30 pm

Well done Christian. If there's no history of the cambelt being changed get it shipped off to Chris ASAP.
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby gingerdave » Fri Dec 16, 2016 11:04 pm

:grin:
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby red » Fri Dec 16, 2016 11:38 pm

:ok: congratulations on getting it through and good luck concocting "the list!"
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby XAF » Fri Dec 16, 2016 11:45 pm

Good news Christian! Go enjoy and make your mind up in the new year what you're gonna do
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby Wild E. Coyote » Sat Dec 17, 2016 8:37 am

Glad it is ok. Regarding the suggestion above: repair everything that needs be done, of course!
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Sat Dec 17, 2016 9:43 am

Thanks guys...

The cam belt has definitely been changed in the last five years... just waiting to hear back on the exact date... should be ok until the spring/summer when I'm gonna get Chris to strip and service the engine...

hopefully I will have removed quite a bit from my donour car... stripped... serviced... cleaned and sealed ready to fit..

I may look at the front bumper repair next... kinda like the idea of getting the Splitter back on... no foubt I will be asking for advice...

peace
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby red » Sat Dec 17, 2016 11:24 am

An FRP without the splitter fitted just is not right :-)
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby CeReD » Fri Jan 06, 2017 12:45 am

I'm still looking to buy, will be happy to put her right!

Glad it's now playing ball for you now though, defo get a splitter put on
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Fri Apr 07, 2017 10:51 pm

Hey there...

hope everyone has had a good winter... glad the summer is on it's way... not much done over the last 3 months... other than driving the car every day and enjoying it every day... took my 6 year old son out last Saturday just for the fun of it.. he seems to like it too... ***flash forward 11 years*** 'Dad... can I borrow your car?' noooooooooo...

I found these the other day for £5.00 a pair... still deciding whether to put them on the rear too...

IMG_2425.JPG


I am finally going to get my Splitter fitted tomorrow and I am still confused... I bought a set of original splitter brackets and have been told that I need to get the brackets riveted to the cross member... but looking at projects on here people have got them attached to the bumper... in that you can remove the bumper and splitter in one piece... like this...

IMG_0099.jpg


can someone please clarify where the splitter was originally attached to... is it the cross member... or is it the bumper as shown above....

Thanks for your help in advance...

also about to get the Black Edition onto the drive to completely strip of anything useful... including the engine... figure I will use it to learn on... take it to bits and see how it works...

peace...
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Fri Apr 07, 2017 10:55 pm

better photo...

IMG_0099.jpg
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby red » Sat Apr 08, 2017 12:03 am

I'm 99% sure the splitter is fully on the bumper.
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby XAF » Sat Apr 08, 2017 6:50 am

100% fitted to the bumper itself - exactly as the pictures.
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Sat Apr 08, 2017 6:27 pm

all fitted... only took me 6 months... thanks for the confirmation...

IMG_2428.JPG
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby xnbradley » Tue May 02, 2017 5:54 pm

Hi there...

Water pump died today... started making a bad noise and the died... pulled into the A1 auto centre that fitted the CAT and passed the MoT... gonna cost £500 to fix...

OEM Timing Belt £129
Water Pump £31.57
Drive Belt £18.40
antifreeze Change £33.33
3.5 labour £203.00

plus VAT is £500.00

what do I do... they don't have the tool either...

crap... crap... crap...
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FRP #32 - Let's go back to the start...

Postby g-whizz » Wed May 03, 2017 4:15 pm

If it's just the water pump why all the rest, or is it due for changing anyway?

The timing belt is overpriced anyway I'd say...here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-F ... xyONBSZlzn

saved you roughly £30 and if you go say the SKF kit it's less than half that price:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKF-Timing-Be ... Swy5ZXDNI8
and you now down closer to £400 which just feels so much better.

This Gates kit is even better at less than £60:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gates-OE-Qual ... Sw37tV-XU3

I could go on but I may be labouring the point...which is do a bit of shopping yourself and you may save a bit on parts...for instance, I got a Gates aux belt for just £8 last week... damn, I had to take it too far, gone from hepful to annoying now :grin:
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