Ford Puma ST Turbo *diy ambition*

Do you have a Puma that is a project? Do you want to track the progress with your own thread? Feel free to do it here.

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PH03NIX
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Ford Puma ST Turbo *diy ambition*

Postby PH03NIX » Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:20 pm

:!: BRAIDED LINES THROUGHOUT :!:

"I likey"
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Ford Puma ST Turbo *diy ambition*

Postby PH03NIX » Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:44 pm

One lonely night hours in the am, an exciting clear 600 yard or so straight ended by 1 sharp 90 degree right hander...
70mph (waaaayyy to fast)... steering wheel turns... wheels turn... "physics kick in" ... car continues straight into kerb!!

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**Wishbone, drop link and now (after several weeks since) a very preculiar rattle within the gearbox, as though something, a small something as dislodged and is now loose in the mech!?!

LESSON:
"The road is not a 'track'! Do not make dumb driving decisions day or night.. they most certainly will be dangerous or costly or both"

EDIT: "This also buckled the wheel!!"
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Ford Puma ST Turbo *diy ambition*

Postby PH03NIX » Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:26 pm

Right... SportKa/StreetKa 16" Alloys are indeed 6Jx16 ET35 with 195/45 R16 tyres
Original Puma wheel spec at 6Jx15 ET35 with 195/50 R15 tyres

The rolling size is practically the same!

I like the Ka spoke design and have retouched mine in matte black and gun metal grey.
Done with poundshop brought paints AND laquer... i know finish will not be lasting..even with a layer or two of silicone polish and wax glaze.

I must say repainting wheel with cheapy paints is not really a problem if preparation is done correct. Do not skip on this.. sand and sand and sand use as little but enough filler for scratches and sand, sand, sand more until smooth.. the primer nor the paint will fill and cover cracks/scratches/dents...
The laquer on the other hand is where the choice for a longer last should be... cheapy tin spray laquer will not hold up againt most car washes products and equipments (hot water, acidy soapy solutions and jet washes).
Epoxy laquer is really the way to go.. not easy for home use as requires mixing and applying from spray gun (so air compressor needed).

You could respray/recolour yourself then have the bodyshop clear coat them with the strong stuff!!!

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* :pose: "ive since decided a darker grey will look better to me..."
but as ive already done two to this scheme i will leave like this until they ruin a bit then redo to complete liking
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Ford Puma ST Turbo *diy ambition*

Postby Wild E. Coyote » Mon Jul 17, 2017 10:31 pm

PH03NIX wrote:Source of the post
**Wishbone, drop link and now (after several weeks since) a very preculiar rattle within the gearbox, as though something, a small something as dislodged and is now loose in the mech!?!


Most likely the CV joint on driveshaft had it as well...
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Postby PH03NIX » Mon Jul 17, 2017 11:15 pm

Wild E. Coyote wrote:Source of the post
PH03NIX wrote:Source of the post
**Wishbone, drop link and now (after several weeks since) a very preculiar rattle within the gearbox, as though something, a small something as dislodged and is now loose in the mech!?!


Most likely the CV joint on driveshaft had it as well...


I indeed thought this.. yet in the air on the ramp, in gear or out of gear and while holding wheel from spin or not ...
the rattke is still very much there.... the old rod to ear trick tells me its right around the diff area-ish.. i thought inner joint.. but a pluck apart and it looks fine to me.
Changed shafts and joints anyway but have been unable to test drive ....
I have a 1.4 puma gearbox in shed to enjoy.... so may end up putting it in early
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Postby PH03NIX » Tue Jul 18, 2017 2:52 pm

I have had pleasure at driving quite a few different model Fiestas growing up with various suspension set ups and wheel sizes, with poly this and poly that, i personaly opted for a subtle joy. This is still to be a daily-ish driver.
My side of town comes equipped with many speed humps and pot holes plus the local council came up with the idea of making every side road a 'narrow entry curbed driveway..' they call it the 'mini Holland' initative or program or rebuild or some b.s.

'Monroe' was the brand of high recomendations to me regarding dampers.
Price wise not in the cheap section but still reasonable plus a bargain can alway be had due to the common yet aged mk4/5 fiesta... in other words there are loads of these laying somewhere around not being sold.
'Apex' -35mm lowering spring was the choice for my suspension tag team. 1) They are YELLOW 2) They were had for good price.
Went to pick these up from eurocarparts and due to having a mate at the counter at the time i got to see the email they were sent proclaiming 'last uk batch'... so purchased just in time.
I saw the 'Lo' spring kit going for as little as £74 but was unsure of this company although the price was very very tempting. (I suppose they are just suffering from being a new company at this time).
Top mounts + bearing were from Monroe also, simply because the dampers were (not much to it). Installed with plenty of copper grease to combat the odd inevitable sqeek.
I did find the rear mount required drilling out just a small millimeter or two in order for it to actual fit down over the ledge on the rear strut. I dont know if this was just dodge batch and all that but i did have to do both.
Ive found also that new rubber mounts somewhat counteract the 30-35mm springs as by first look the drop is unoticable. (When this is done reusing old mounts the drop is seen a little more).


Rear springs side by side
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Front hub and shock
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New rear bump stop.... old ones complete brittle
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Old rear dampers + springs.... shocks didnt even try to raise
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**For those interested:
Monroe Part No#
Front Shock - 16226
Rear Shock - 23901
Front Mount + Bearing - MK055
Rear Mount - MK126
Front Bump Stop - PK022
Rear Bump Stop - PK018
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Postby PH03NIX » Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:28 pm

O/S Wishbone changed.. again..
I will keep it and fit polys in the future.

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Postby PH03NIX » Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:44 pm

So.... over time i have seen many questions of: "what steering wheels fit the puma?"
I myself wanted this answer... maybe sierra, maybe escort, even KA?
Well it seems not many or i should say not many that are worth the hassle of trying to rewire airbag modules and the sort...

Plus really and truly we all want one similar to the mk7 fiesta...
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The wheel diameter is actually slight bigger...
Plus a different column fitting means IT DOES NOT FIT the puma. :cry:
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Postby PH03NIX » Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:13 pm

BUT.... I refuse to be detered and have set out on a true DIY approach

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I have been trying to figure out how to incorporate the original switch.
Unfortunatley the switch casing is quite large and awkwardly shaped. It stands at 35mm tall and around 40mm diameter.
That will require a big hole/gap cut into the steering wheel to house the switch as its original wheel design does.
Now i know cutting and shaping steering wheel is not an easy task and so will not be an option unless someone will kindly like to contribute one for task at hand, instead i have taken as much material away from the switch housing as i can and got rid of the plastic contact blocks.

I now have this...
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Still a little too tall (25mm).

Maybe some micro tactile switches under the top casing / buttons will allow me to reposition the lower half of casing elsewhere?!?
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Postby PH03NIX » Tue Aug 08, 2017 1:50 am

:-D

Rear bushes done!! Very very very (did i type: 'very' ?) hard job.
Theres a member on the other site.. who says: and i quote.. "don't believe what anyone says, you can't use a ' bush removal tool' to get these buggers out."
Such true words.
I would of actually paid to have them done but then i realised thats defeating the DIY objective.
So SDS drill out (the big daddy), various chisels and a mallet, 15mm socket & ratchet, 19mm ratchet spanner, copper grease, brand new PSB rear bush and an on the spot homemade bush puller.... oh and about 7 hours of my life!!

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Passenger side was worse.... (this sides suspension was also more gone)

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With the looks of that you can understand the difficulty of removal.

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Theres that o.t.s.h.m bush tool i mentions .. simply a long bolt with large square washer one end, a randomly found piece of circular metal that was a small but larger in diameter to the bush housing and a bolt... simply slowing wind bolt up.
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Postby PH03NIX » Tue Aug 08, 2017 2:21 am

In regards to the rear bushes, i went for the PSB -Problem Solving Bushes- brand simply for exactly what the name says.. 'problem solving'.
For the first problem of getting the old ones out.. it made sh!t load of difference .. (an oxy torch would be the hero there)
For the second problem of fitting new OEM ones.. needing a proper bush tool or atleast better homemade one and a lot more force ... "it done what it says on the tin"

Equipt with the lowering springs and fresh mounts, links and what not she handles superbly.
Very precise...
The rear bush being of the poly type, i do have to admit does make the rear end just a tiny tincy incy wincy bit firmer over the standard bush. But dont confuse this for the firmer feel from stiffer springs if you also install these. The bush will more so affect the sway and any pulls and pushes the rear end will suffer.
Into a corner the softer bushes will alow the rear to glide a slight piece the polys make the rear wheel a touch more reactive to the fronts direction.. where there front goes the back goes..

Plus the company offers *lifetime warranty inclusive... so why not?

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Postby PH03NIX » Tue Aug 08, 2017 4:06 am

I would so like to learn the techniques and skills of welding. Im steady with a pencil but have already learnt it takes more than that.
Bearing this in mind, Daniel son decided to skip karate class and beat up some bullies without Mr Miyagi.
In other words... one week of youtube and finally some alone time with an arc/stick welder and the drivers side rear arch was attacked

WARNING: Do not attempt any welding without the correct safety eye wear and clothing and gloves.

Before any knowledgable boffins pull me up i will add that this method of welding is not actually appropriate for alluminium, especially such thin aluminium.
A Peugeot 206 front wing was indeed used (the pumas o/s required the pugs n/s)

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Bad metal cut and area cleaned. I cut away the inner lip with the aim of filling the gap with fibreglass which will also be my base filler.

Time for welding.
Now this wasnt my very first welding attempt.. first time was repairing an exhaust and due to not wearing goggle.. look, close eyes, spark & weld, peak, close eyes, stop weld, look.. i suffered "Arc Eye" several hours later.. my eyeballs were in literal pain, closed swollen shut for hours, ending up in Moorefield Eye Hospital early hours of the morning.
Bless the Mrs and the nurse who took the chance to give a grilling while i was blind!

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Tried some so called 'spot welds' ...
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Then went full crack..
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Hmmm... it actually stuck...
I thought i was just burning holes at one point..
Looks wise, very poor... but i found when i was grinding down the weld would heat and spread out a little... not sure if that was meant to happen but it did allow to produce a nicer and smoother finish to work with.
Ive since used fibre glass filler as the first layer with the idea that it being non porous will be a better provention towards future rust.

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The passenger side rust has already, yet only slightly started to bubble through the paint work.
Just before full body touch up i think i will tend to it then.
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Ford Puma ST Turbo *diy ambition*

Postby PH03NIX » Fri Oct 20, 2017 3:21 am

Things have been kinda slow ..
I have reach that part of trying to juggle work and the rest of life ..

But this beauty gives me hope ..

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It is a 'frankenstein' experiment using the exhaust half of a saab gt1752 turbo and the inlet side of a larger saab gt2052 turbo using the complete inards of the gt20.
I have the correct a/r figures and what not somewhere i will quote later.
The 17 has an easier turbine housing to work with and my theory is that the slight bigger compressor of the 20 will allow cooler air at the same speed that the 17 would.. (If you get me)
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Postby PH03NIX » Fri Oct 20, 2017 3:39 am

A small bit of interior progress as well!

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3-way 100w Kenwood speaker (kfc-e17) < thats not my local
And a 8" 800w BassFace subwoofer (spl8.1)
These will be paired with a 100w total amp for the kenwoods and a 2channel 800w amp for the subs.

Ive also gone ahead and provided the box an internal separtion...

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Ford Puma ST Turbo *diy ambition*

Postby mihalyn90 » Mon Oct 30, 2017 4:29 pm

i will mark this just for the turbo option :D
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