FlashBastd
New member
I just got mine from a local Ford dealer.
Project Puma 'Black'
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FlashBastd
New member
Mini update;
Just fitted a new lambda and connected up the heated seats and drivers seat power height adjust, which I am pretty pleased about. Of course having fitted heated seats, you can now almost guarantee that I will have sold the car by the time I come to need them!
Awaiting delivery of a new steering wheel which I am going to have retrimmed.
Also have some parts awaiting fitment, including early Puma servo, with new master cylinder, and rellevant pipework to connect to ABS pump and a new OMP lower strut brace.
Just fitted a new lambda and connected up the heated seats and drivers seat power height adjust, which I am pretty pleased about. Of course having fitted heated seats, you can now almost guarantee that I will have sold the car by the time I come to need them!
Awaiting delivery of a new steering wheel which I am going to have retrimmed.
Also have some parts awaiting fitment, including early Puma servo, with new master cylinder, and rellevant pipework to connect to ABS pump and a new OMP lower strut brace.
FlashBastd
New member
So, like so many good things, my relationship with the Puma is drawing to a close. I have had it for around 20 months, during which time we have covered around 18,000 miles together, and the car has undergone something of a transformation, with the replacement of most, if not all wear parts and consumables, a full upgrade to FRP engine spec, Recaro seats, etc.
So why decide to sell? The mileage isn't especially high, at just over 84k, the consumables have lots of life left in them, the car was a great spec...
In truth I have been getting a bit bored with it for a while, the comedy exhaust noise on the motorway is a joke, and I wasn't convinced that it was making as much power as it should have. Furthermore I was about to spend a load more money on various bits like a new alcantara steering wheel, 'box w/LSD, etc. continuing what has really been a pattern of spending money on the car to keep me interested, when in reality I should have just bought a larger / 2 seater / convertible / coupe / newer / faster / more suitable for business use [delete depending on mood] car in the first place. It still definately puts a smile on my face, but I fancy a change. In terms of keeping me busy with relatively inexpensive modifications, it has been great. I have learned loads with this car, and done much (but by no means all) of the work myself. To have made similar changes / upgrades / modifications to a Beemer, or even a Focus ST would have been much more expensive, and as I set out to "play with" this car, things went largely to plan.
You will probably have seen my For Sale post, detailing most of the good bits of this car, along with the other spares and consumables that I have collected over the past 18m. If you haven't seen it, then it's here;
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7925" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also I do still have a handful of sets of new original FRP cams, diffs and gearboxes if anyone is interested. Again, there is a post in the For Sale section.
So, shameful plug over with, onto todays progress; having agreed the sale of the FRP inlet no.542, the FRP spec ECU, the Pioneer rear speakers and provisionally the FRP spec airbox, I set about removing them from the car. Changing an alternator on a FRP must be one of the most awful jobs ever, just because one of the three bolts is almost completely inaccessible, and becomes more inaccessible the more you remove it! Fortunately I was able to get the FRP inlet off with the alternator just loosened a bit; I then removed it prior to refitting the standard inlet. At this point I was reminded just how much more accessible the fittings are with the standard inlet than with the FRP item. Until I sell the car, I will also enjoy having a much more accesible dip stick! Of course today was a warm June day, and when I fitted the FRP inlet was over a couple of cold damp dark November evenings, but regardless the standard item is much easier to work with!
Only issues I had were that I shortened the fuel vapour and fuel pressure hoses from the inlet manifold, and now they are too damn short. I will get a new fuel vapour hose sorted early next week, in the meantime that is ok, but I have had to remove it from it's support behind the servo. The fuel pressure hose is pulled very tight though at the moment, so I may have to pay a visit to Halfords tomorrow morning to see if they have anything that fits the bill.
The airbox remains an awkward damn thing to remove or fit, however because I was doing the airbox, I also removed the battery box, and this, along with the removal of both headlamps made changing the inlet somewhat easier. Doing the aux drive belt is also much easier in daylight!
So, current spec of the car is standard ECU, FRP cams, 4-2-1 exhaust, standard airbox. Will be interesting to see if there is much / any noticable difference in performance.
Something I noticed recently in the warm weather was that the FRP inlet will really warm up when it's hot outside, during cooler weather incoming air would typically be maybe a couple of degrees cooler than on the exterior temp clock, but recently it has gone the other way a bit. Maybe I'm just not driving it hard enough to really suck the air into the engine? Who knows.
Anyhow, I am planning on dropping the car off at the garage later in the week to get the rear drums refitted, and possibly swap the exhaust over, depending upon the availability of the chap who is buying it.
Still to be removed;
Recaro's, with custom loom
Front door speakers
Stereo
Steering wheel
Also need to refit the rear speaker pods
Even then, it will still be a bit special, even for a Black, as I will be leaving the front brakes, wheels & tyres, mirror lights, cruise control, posh sunvisors and rear interior lamp, plus of course the sound deadening and rust proofing.
Thanks for reading, and have a look at my posts in the For Sale section, there is something there for everyone!
So why decide to sell? The mileage isn't especially high, at just over 84k, the consumables have lots of life left in them, the car was a great spec...
In truth I have been getting a bit bored with it for a while, the comedy exhaust noise on the motorway is a joke, and I wasn't convinced that it was making as much power as it should have. Furthermore I was about to spend a load more money on various bits like a new alcantara steering wheel, 'box w/LSD, etc. continuing what has really been a pattern of spending money on the car to keep me interested, when in reality I should have just bought a larger / 2 seater / convertible / coupe / newer / faster / more suitable for business use [delete depending on mood] car in the first place. It still definately puts a smile on my face, but I fancy a change. In terms of keeping me busy with relatively inexpensive modifications, it has been great. I have learned loads with this car, and done much (but by no means all) of the work myself. To have made similar changes / upgrades / modifications to a Beemer, or even a Focus ST would have been much more expensive, and as I set out to "play with" this car, things went largely to plan.
You will probably have seen my For Sale post, detailing most of the good bits of this car, along with the other spares and consumables that I have collected over the past 18m. If you haven't seen it, then it's here;
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7925" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Also I do still have a handful of sets of new original FRP cams, diffs and gearboxes if anyone is interested. Again, there is a post in the For Sale section.
So, shameful plug over with, onto todays progress; having agreed the sale of the FRP inlet no.542, the FRP spec ECU, the Pioneer rear speakers and provisionally the FRP spec airbox, I set about removing them from the car. Changing an alternator on a FRP must be one of the most awful jobs ever, just because one of the three bolts is almost completely inaccessible, and becomes more inaccessible the more you remove it! Fortunately I was able to get the FRP inlet off with the alternator just loosened a bit; I then removed it prior to refitting the standard inlet. At this point I was reminded just how much more accessible the fittings are with the standard inlet than with the FRP item. Until I sell the car, I will also enjoy having a much more accesible dip stick! Of course today was a warm June day, and when I fitted the FRP inlet was over a couple of cold damp dark November evenings, but regardless the standard item is much easier to work with!
Only issues I had were that I shortened the fuel vapour and fuel pressure hoses from the inlet manifold, and now they are too damn short. I will get a new fuel vapour hose sorted early next week, in the meantime that is ok, but I have had to remove it from it's support behind the servo. The fuel pressure hose is pulled very tight though at the moment, so I may have to pay a visit to Halfords tomorrow morning to see if they have anything that fits the bill.
The airbox remains an awkward damn thing to remove or fit, however because I was doing the airbox, I also removed the battery box, and this, along with the removal of both headlamps made changing the inlet somewhat easier. Doing the aux drive belt is also much easier in daylight!
So, current spec of the car is standard ECU, FRP cams, 4-2-1 exhaust, standard airbox. Will be interesting to see if there is much / any noticable difference in performance.
Something I noticed recently in the warm weather was that the FRP inlet will really warm up when it's hot outside, during cooler weather incoming air would typically be maybe a couple of degrees cooler than on the exterior temp clock, but recently it has gone the other way a bit. Maybe I'm just not driving it hard enough to really suck the air into the engine? Who knows.
Anyhow, I am planning on dropping the car off at the garage later in the week to get the rear drums refitted, and possibly swap the exhaust over, depending upon the availability of the chap who is buying it.
Still to be removed;
Recaro's, with custom loom
Front door speakers
Stereo
Steering wheel
Also need to refit the rear speaker pods
Even then, it will still be a bit special, even for a Black, as I will be leaving the front brakes, wheels & tyres, mirror lights, cruise control, posh sunvisors and rear interior lamp, plus of course the sound deadening and rust proofing.
Thanks for reading, and have a look at my posts in the For Sale section, there is something there for everyone!
TyeBoi
New member
sad to see you go william! like scotty said. stick around.
FlashBastd
New member
Cheers guys, haven't got rid of it yet, just working towards that point.
As for FF, honestly not sure, still want to come, albeit without the car, so may rock up later on Sunday. Anyone want a couple of slots of track time with zsoc?
As for FF, honestly not sure, still want to come, albeit without the car, so may rock up later on Sunday. Anyone want a couple of slots of track time with zsoc?
FlashBastd
New member
So, todays progress;
Refitted OE rear speakers, removed Recaro's & loom, removed stereo, Origin B2 and autdim mirror.
Refitted original front seats, fitted audio remote, constructed replacement phone loom for 6000 stereo, refitted 6000 stereo.
To fit the remote, I used a remote and middle audio plug from a 2001-2003 Mondeo. These use the same stereo as the Puma, but also use the middle socket on the back for the remote and the VSS (in case you want to activate the AVC). I decided I wasn't going to both tapping into the VSS, so decided to relocate this wire to pin 8 and use it for the phone mute instead. To do this, I firstly released the clips at each side, and removed the cover;
Then pushe the VSS wire out and replaced it into pin 8 (shown in pin 7, by mistake);
Next, replace the red cover.
So now you have a plug wired for the remote and the audio mute. Of course if you aren't going to bother fitting a phone kit, that stage was irrelevant!
The remote works by resistance, you literally just need to join the two wires from the new plug to the two wires on the back of the remote.
Next step is mounting the remote, so firstly remove your lower steering column shroud (5 x philips screws);
Work out where you want to mount the remote, if I was doing it again, I would put it a bit further forward than I have. Next job is to chop the protruding arm off the back of the remote, you won't need it.
Once I had decided where to mount the remote, I used a 10mm wood drill bit to make a hole for the socket, then using a smaller bit (3mm?) drilled holes for two self tapping screws to mount the remote to the steering column shroud. I made the mistake of using my cordless to mount the remote, this isn't a good idea as if you get it too tight, the buttons won't work.
I used around 750mm of cable to go from the steering column to the audio area, once you have mounted the remote to the shroud, extend the plug from the remote by around 750mm, run the wiring to the audio area and refit the shroud.
Next join these wires to the new plug, and refit the stereo, job done!
I think it is great, a well worthwhile modification for anyone who wants to retain the OE stereo, or even for people who have an aftermarket stereo with an input for a remote. I would have done it earlier, but my Kenwood could only use an IR remote.
Comments and questions always welcome!
Refitted OE rear speakers, removed Recaro's & loom, removed stereo, Origin B2 and autdim mirror.
Refitted original front seats, fitted audio remote, constructed replacement phone loom for 6000 stereo, refitted 6000 stereo.
To fit the remote, I used a remote and middle audio plug from a 2001-2003 Mondeo. These use the same stereo as the Puma, but also use the middle socket on the back for the remote and the VSS (in case you want to activate the AVC). I decided I wasn't going to both tapping into the VSS, so decided to relocate this wire to pin 8 and use it for the phone mute instead. To do this, I firstly released the clips at each side, and removed the cover;
Then pushe the VSS wire out and replaced it into pin 8 (shown in pin 7, by mistake);
Next, replace the red cover.
So now you have a plug wired for the remote and the audio mute. Of course if you aren't going to bother fitting a phone kit, that stage was irrelevant!
The remote works by resistance, you literally just need to join the two wires from the new plug to the two wires on the back of the remote.
Next step is mounting the remote, so firstly remove your lower steering column shroud (5 x philips screws);
Work out where you want to mount the remote, if I was doing it again, I would put it a bit further forward than I have. Next job is to chop the protruding arm off the back of the remote, you won't need it.
Once I had decided where to mount the remote, I used a 10mm wood drill bit to make a hole for the socket, then using a smaller bit (3mm?) drilled holes for two self tapping screws to mount the remote to the steering column shroud. I made the mistake of using my cordless to mount the remote, this isn't a good idea as if you get it too tight, the buttons won't work.
I used around 750mm of cable to go from the steering column to the audio area, once you have mounted the remote to the shroud, extend the plug from the remote by around 750mm, run the wiring to the audio area and refit the shroud.
Next join these wires to the new plug, and refit the stereo, job done!
I think it is great, a well worthwhile modification for anyone who wants to retain the OE stereo, or even for people who have an aftermarket stereo with an input for a remote. I would have done it earlier, but my Kenwood could only use an IR remote.
Comments and questions always welcome!
FlashBastd
New member
Car is SOLD! To my mum, so it is still going to be about. Sparky the Ka isn't going to pass another MoT due to rot, mum has always liked my little Puma and it reminds her of the black '86 Capri Laser she ran from around 90-96.
I will still be using it for a little while, but at least it's future is now decided, and someone will get some benefit from all of the relatively new consumables!
I will still be using it for a little while, but at least it's future is now decided, and someone will get some benefit from all of the relatively new consumables!
martinthrapston
Active member
great news flash!!!
FlashBastd
New member
Just need to cash out of the remaining FRP parts and then I can think of buying something else.
Hoping to get a beemer, but am quite looking forward to borrowing a 306 GTi-6 for a few weeks until I have things sorted.
Hoping to get a beemer, but am quite looking forward to borrowing a 306 GTi-6 for a few weeks until I have things sorted.
Sad you selling the car done so much with it. But I understand in a way too. Looking for some new projects.
Hope you will continue being on the ford puma forum it will be a loss if not.
Cheers for adding that audio controll pictures looks like a okay summer project for me.
Do you know if it will work for a car pc too?
http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-FOCUS-MOND...arParts_SM&hash=item3eff216260#ht_1961wt_1038
Is this the same :http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-FOCUS-MOND...arParts_SM&hash=item3eff216260#ht_1961wt_1038
Hope you will continue being on the ford puma forum it will be a loss if not.
Cheers for adding that audio controll pictures looks like a okay summer project for me.
Do you know if it will work for a car pc too?
http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-FOCUS-MOND...arParts_SM&hash=item3eff216260#ht_1961wt_1038
Is this the same :http://cgi.ebay.com/FORD-FOCUS-MOND...arParts_SM&hash=item3eff216260#ht_1961wt_1038
FlashBastd
New member
Those are the same, make sure it comes with the plug, and a length of wire though.
No clue if it will work with a car PC, but if you can get an interface to make it work in a Focus/Mondeo, then I would guess it should.
No clue if it will work with a car PC, but if you can get an interface to make it work in a Focus/Mondeo, then I would guess it should.
.The adapter is the adapter on this ithem right?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Mondeo-M..._CarParts_SM&hash=item2a082fc573#ht_500wt_947
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Mondeo-M..._CarParts_SM&hash=item2a082fc573#ht_500wt_947
FlashBastd
New member
No, you would need a specific adaptor to use with a car PC, but I think it is unlikely that anyone does one.
FlashBastd
New member
Also there are two plugs, the one that plugs into the control, and the other that plugs into the back of the stereo.
