JASAPP

Nothing special, some winter has arrived here....



And she turned 2 centuries.... :?

Hi Sinisa
It looks like you've had the same amount of snow as we had earlier in the year. It's been really warm but very wet over here for the last month but it looks like next week we will fall into winter temperatures :-(
As for your mileage, well done for such a good looking car, at the present rate mine will take over 30 years to join it!
I think that may be with my son :grin:
Barry

Thanks Barry, have you calculated that my car is showing km? I.e. she has turned 124 274 miles :wink:

Hi Sinisa
Yes I did
Barry

Always love this Puma, keep it up Sinisa

Love the puma, flawless work !

Cheers, guys, thanks for your kind comments!
Having said that, will go out and check the oil level. I change it at 10000 km intervals and need to top up about 0,5 l in summertime and about 0,8-0,9 l in winter. I use only formula ford 5W30 as I can get it dirt cheap and the engine likes it....
You can hear a distinction in engine note when oil has passed it's prime. The engine at tickover gets slightly metallic add on to the sound which completely dissapears when you put in the fresh oil and it works just smoother and nicer; almost like when a satisfied cat purrs....

Wild E. Coyote said:

[post]327291[/post] After that I just couldn't stand the fact that you can't open the boot while engine is running. Did the interior boot release mod using the fordka switch and descrption in how to section. Also, bothered to take pictures of it. To be found here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=290639#p290639" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or just few images, as usual:

Switch you need to find in the boot and bring another +12V to it to open the bonnet


Some soldering (messy, I admit. Now would just cut it and then resolder it to make it neater)


If you get just the switch without the female plug, the female plug of the electric window mechanism is THE SAME and can be used


As these images prove




After that you just have to match it to this scheme (courtesy of Fordwiki)


Soldering and matching the wires


Took the signal from the light switch nearby, so the switch is illuminated at night and looks OEM




Searching for a permanent 12V behind the radio


Success!


Positioning the switch using the negative cut in MDF


Marked the opening to be cut (used stanley knife)


And end product!

Click to expand...

k: i have done this mod to my puma and its wicked thankyou wild e coyote
jason

You are welcome! Glad I could be of help

Hi! I read this in your post:

"The usual rusty rear end was replaced with zinc coated 1.2 mm thick steel. Also, did it without the bended section inside which is causing the rust in the first place!"

Can i ask you how you fixed this with the inner arch without loosing its strength? i'm curious to know, since the bended section causes the rust indeed, but also provides the strenght of the car no? There must be a better way to fix this. Thanks

___________________________________________________________
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=29080&p=345387&hilit=puma+from+belgium#p345387

It has a lip for that purpose, but not the usual one at 10 mms+ that traps all the crap inside. No problem with it whatsoever, as I believe it is a bit thicker than original, anyway....
It was welded (MIG), as is usual pracice. First just few spots, and then filled in until everything was welded. It is strong plenty enough.... You don't have to worry about that

Hi everyone,

I need some advice. I am planning a gearbox replacement, opting for six speeder from fiesta ST180. Those can be had for some, not to expensive money, offer very similar 5 gear ratios, exactly the same final drive ratio, the added 6th gear and a potential for power increase (did I hear somene whispering turbo.....? :wink: ).
From the information I could gather on net, the belhousing is the same and the B6 should have the same bolt pattern as the IB5.
First hurdle passed.
The second is, obviously, the cable shift system, but that shouldn't be much of a problem.
That brings us to the third obstacle. The ST180 is a new car and has no VSS as it gets its speed from a rear wheel ABS sensor. Sure, someone might suggest to follow the same route, but puma uses old ABS system (inductive sensors) so they output A/C voltage (someone please correct me if I am wrong on this).
The new system uses Hall or VR sensors that output spikes if I am not mistaken? So, that is a no-go, I am affraid.
Turning my attention to VSS. I have done some investigation and found info (Delphi is the source) that there is some sort of 'rule' that each turn of wheel should produce 8 spikes by Hall sensor. Can someone confirm this information?
I would guess, as all sensors in car, this uses 5V?
So, these are my thoughts: ideally, I would just chuck in the speedo gear on diff, as it is in IB5 gearbox. I don't know if that is possible, as the B6 is, so I understand, completely new construction. I know some gearboxes of other manufacturers have just plugs where pinion gears should go in if they are not installed.
If that fails, plan is to put a hall sensor and a gear on driveshaft. Ideally, I would put on the speedogear and pinion drive with VSS and everything would just work as intended, but have reservation as that gear is in oil and that would mean I need seals on driveshaft etc....
Any input and thought is more than welcome!

Hi Sinisa
That's a lot of work to take on and is there a LSD in this box like you have at the moment? The sensor you've put on your other post is similar to the one Westfield use and that drives off the bolts holding the CV joints onto the diff output so that's 6 spikes per revolution.
Barry

I was hoping you would know and answer something! Ok, that is a step in the right direction. I have found that subarus need 4 spikes per revolution for their speedo. What speedo do you use on westie? A stock Ford one or aftermarket?
No LSD in that box but quaife has one on offer. Needless to say, my g'box will be for sale if you are interested....
Of course it is lot of work, but the possible gain will outweight all the hassle as I do lots of motorway miles every day (100 kms) so turning the revs down will be like from heaven sent feature.... :wink:

Hi Sinisa
The Westfield one is a VDO from the vision series but if you're not using the original speedo can't you use a GPS one and then you won't have to worry about wiring in senders etc. Also if you're worrying about getting the cruising revs down wouldn't it be possible to swap to another Ford CWP with your existing box?
Your gearbox would be wasted in my car as it's having an easy life but I'm sure others would be interested.
Barry

http://www.vdo-instruments.com/instruments/by-series/vision-black/speedometer.html

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=car+gps+speedometer&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=81509921175&hvpos=1t3&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12438084404651488701&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_62i8ge0nmw_b

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/black-face-electronic-analogue-speedo-plus

You can always use a speedo healer to correct a signal if you can get a VSS to work?

HAd a good look yesterday only to discover (to my embarassement) that I have digital sender already. It is a Hall sensor reading input from speed ring on diff. Silly of me to spend few days of investigating instead of checking what actually is on my car!
Anyway, that made conversion much easier and more doable; now I need just to get hold of speed ring that is attached to the diff. Does anyone here have it laying around to get a picture of it? My plan is to replicate it and attach it to the driveshaft and that is it.
Cheers for the help in advance, and also in reverse to the ones who contributed already

I might be interested in your gearbox

Yesterday had a good clean of my car and also checked the sills to see how those stickers held through the winter.

So instead of lots of talk, just some images to show that it was really well spent 30 minutes!



The car in general



A closer look at the left sill



No rust, no stone chips. The sticker held nicely!



The door area



This is fantastic condition. I recommend to eveyone to put that sticker on his car. It really does its job and protects the bodywork.

As a comparison, a shot of my front bumper. I am not worried about it as it can't rust, but the damage is visible.




Those 30 minutes I did spend on applying the stickers to the car were really invaluable!

Wild E. Coyote said:

[post]348548[/post] I recommend to everyone to put that sticker on his car. It really does its job and protects the bodywork.

Click to expand...

Is it on just for the winter or all the time? i.e. can it be removed without damage?