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Looking good, i wonder if it won't change too much of color after a longer period. Anyway it seems to give a great protection of the paint. Might give this a try for my sills too.
 
Hi Sinisa
I thought it would be like Vinyl and just peel off but it doesn't matter if it's doing protection. My next door neighbour has just bought a 2012 Impreza saloon and this car has the same thing all over the rear wheel arches just like the MK1 Focus RS
 
No, it is rather thick, perhaps 2 mm. But, it is excellent stuff. Lots of new cars have that on rear doors to protect it from chip stones.
And the adhesive is so strong, once on I don't think it would come off just like that. Perhaps with some heating involved...?
 
I use that stuff on RC heli rotors and mountain bikes, protects the bikes a lot from scratches, chips, crashes! It's known as Heli Tape, there are different thicknesses and don't buy unbranded cheap stuff as it will probably go yellow with UV. I usually apply it with soapy water, a sponge and a hairdryer as it's around awkward tubes. It can definitely take the paintwork off. :wink:

Never even thought about using it on cars! :roll:
 
People do this to the entire car. Mostly known as clear bra or paint protection film. Helps a lot against scratches and chips. Can even go as far as protecting against someone trying to key your car. If you get a self healing clear bra, just some hot water and scratch is gone.
 
Update time!

After almost a year of thinking about and planning finally gave in and replaced the engine mount. Can't complain about the old one as it gave me a service life of 207.800 kms! It hasn't leaked, but there was some dronning noise present at certain revs at certain times. Run into some old stock clearing so got the FeBi mount for mere 32 GBP! The problem was that the four bolts were rusted in and really stuck big time. To make the problem worse, they are very strange bolts; they are not standard bolts as they use spanner 10 and being so small make it easy for spanner to slip and deform the head beyond use. Today had an opportunity and took it: a colleague had his acetilene-oxygen cutter ready, set the flame to very mild setting and heated it up from beneath. The bolts gave in right away without any resistance!



They were reused, although I am thinking about replacing them with standard ones with some washers as their head would be bigger; most probably in region of 12-13 mms.



Then it was time for undoing the big nut (#41!) but that was not a problem.



Only thing left was to take the 3 studs out of engine block (engine was, naturally suported by a jack) and here they were:



And, finally the old mount. Rusty as hell, but no leaks, did his duty well!





And new and shiney mount!



Little of blue loctite on all the threads to keep them safe from undoing and to protect them from rust as well and all is put together. The engine runs sweeter and quieter, the car is running great! It is noticeably quieter and I would strongly recommend to replace the engine mount as it improves NVH beyond description! Very good update, not expensive and not very time consuming. The car just got better! Again :wink: :grin:
 
This upper engine mount is @15 years old on almost every Puma.
Most I have seen, have perished/burst and gone sloppy over time. Causing vibration and `buzzing` at speed.
I replaced my (leaky) original with the stiffest one I could find.
You certainly found a bargain at £32gbp.
A few dollops of grease on the exposed lower part of the bolt thread, will help with any future maintenance.
 
Well done Sinisa. Did you waggle the stud on each mount after you took out the old one to see if you could feel any difference?
Barry
 
No Barry, I didn't. But at the first startup I could tell the difference right away. Ok, I am really anal about NVH having my car accoustically treated in every possible way. The other took the instrument cluster out and put some foam beneath the silver shroud as during winter sometimes it was buzzing just a bit on cold mornings with engine in 1800-2200 rpm range. Noone else either noticed, or was bothered by it, but it was driving me crazy when it was happening (picture me driving and with left hand holding the shroud as then it wouldn't make any noise :cry: ).
After 'foaming it' it was much better, but still there was some very slight sound appearing: now it is completely gone! Since the improvement is so massive, already got the torque link (FeBi, even cheaper at 13 GBP) which will be rplaced this weekend. Then it leaves only the gearbox mount which I haven't sourced yet, but intend to!
The thing that is so motivating is the improvement that each of those things bring to the car and just makes her another step closer to the good as new state which is the ultimate goal. It really still is, in every respect, a really GREAT car. The performance is there, well and above any small car, economy is (in real life) on par with two generations younger cars that puma outperforms with smile on her face :grin:
Really a great car that deserves to be in prime condition
 
Just few decent photos of the mount in the engine bay....



Still can't believe how stupid these bolts are with that small head for spanner #10....



And what is more to come over weekend if the weather holds (as the rain is forecast and a drop in teperature of at least 10 C!)

 
Hi Sinisa
Welcome to our world :) we had nearly all 4 seasons here yesterday, rain, high winds, really cold, hail and sunny, it must be a shock after 25C?
Barry

http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/2646458
 
You should find a local eletroplater for the those bolts Sinisa :wink: will stop the heads deforming from surface rust.

But yes, you're right, they are a daft sized bolt for their purpose!
 
moondustka said:
[post]349682[/post] You should find a local eletroplater for the those bolts Sinisa :wink: will stop the heads deforming from surface rust.

But yes, you're right, they are a daft sized bolt for their purpose!

Nah, I will do it. Have already given a go at it, just need to find some time to set it all up. Zinc is already at home :wink:
 
Good job :)
The FRPs commonly suffer from a vibrating pedal box at around 4000 rpm. It's a common belief that the problem is the throttle cable making contact in the engine bay with the inlet manifold, but I'm not convinced. I have tried various ways to fix this, including a new throttle cable, without success.
Last year I removed the top engine mount to check it and it 'seemed' OK, but I suppose a replacement is the only way to rule it out.
I'll be giving this a go I think :)
By the way SInisa, those funny mounting bolts are still available from Ford and not too expensive.
Paul
 
748 said:
[post]349689[/post] Good job :)
The FRPs commonly suffer from a vibrating pedal box at around 4000 rpm. It's a common belief that the problem is the throttle cable making contact in the engine bay with the inlet manifold, but I'm not convinced. I have tried various ways to fix this, including a new throttle cable, without success.
Last year I removed the top engine mount to check it and it 'seemed' OK, but I suppose a replacement is the only way to rule it out.
I'll be giving this a go I think :)
By the way SInisa, those funny mounting bolts are still available from Ford and not too expensive.
Paul

Paul, I would recommend replacing the engine mount. You can see how mine looked, and I guess it would have been deemed OK as it didn't leak, but the difference is day and night!

And you may want to rethink that not to expensive: just got quote at 4,3 GBP per bolt! It would be more expensive to buy them than I payed for the torque link!
Are they hight tensile bolts rated at 10.9 or just regular 8.8?
 
Wild E. Coyote said:
And you may want to rethink that not to expensive: just got quote at 4,3 GBP per bolt! It would be more expensive to buy them than I payed for the torque link!
Are they hight tensile bolts rated at 10.9 or just regular 8.8?

WOW! I'm sure they were about £1 each when I got them last year. I'll dig out my invoice later and have a look.
Not sure what the tensile rating is.
Paul
 
...and the roll restrictor, as Ford calls it....



Now, the parts aren't EXACTLY the same. As the photo proves, there is a slight difference betwen the FeBi and the item that was on.



And in detail




However, the FeBi part bolted in just fine, not a problem there. Torqued the gearbox bolt at 55 and the back bolt at 69 Nm as per TIS and it worked like a charm.
All together, I'd say 15 minutes job including jacking up the car. The old one looks really ok, after shortish test drive it seems the new one is an improvement (as is to be expected, really) but much less of a game changer like the engine mount was.

And the new torque link in all its glory on the car (sorry, the picture is not the best as it is a mobile phone one)



The only left now is the gearbox mount :grin:
 

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