Cheers for the support!
Ah, ok, here we go again, with some other stuff in the pipeline. Ben had a nice low mileage puma and had no use fof the engine so I bought it!
He was kind enough to do the compression test (cheers, mate!) and it showed really good health, as you can see:
Ford says the starting pressure should be 12.4 bars but the engine should be warmed up to operating temperature first. This was measured after engine was sat for over a week so it is in excellent health.
A lorry picked it up, Ben and his brother were kind enough to help with the loading and few days later the pallet arrived...
So, I set out to do the complete overhaul of the engine. I dismantled it completely as I wanted it to be as good as new.
The parts that are cleaned and cleared for installing are wrapped up in foil and stored securely away
The bolts are grouped and signed not to mix them up or lose any
Lots of parts make a puma engine!
Fun fact: the water pump on the engine had metal impeller, the original replacement from Ford has a plastic one...
The water pump pulley was heavily corroded inside: a proof engine sat for a long time and some moisture condensed inside and ate into the metal. Had that filed away
The starter works perfectly, but looked tired a bit...
So did something about it as well as the lifting eyes
And the end product: cleaned and greased inside...
Also
Continuing with the engine dissasembly...
Few studs broke i.e. the torx head broke off...
Used the two nut trick on some, but some just wouldn't go so got these which took them out with ease...
And the head is almost off
And finally...
The bottom end
The main bearings are as good as new. Nothing fancy here what Ford would like you to believe with that bullshit story of nonrepairability of bottom end etc....
If you need, Glyco does a set of main crankshaft bearings as they are the same for 1.6 and 1.7 engine.
It is 48 mm OD on crankshaft
The problematic ones are the big end bearings. Every part catalogue states the ones from 1.6 to fit, but they DON'T!
Although very low mileage engine, all 4 are marked like this.
They are not worn, nothing to be felt under finger, but have these markings. My guess is that was the frst startup of the engine and some oil starvation that occured until the oil pump built enough pressure and got the oil through the engine.
I would bet my life that these bearings are also made by Glyco, but unsure; perhaps someone here can recognise the logo?
And the OD of bigend journal on cranshaft is nominally 42 mm
Nominal dimension per Ford should be 41.980 mm and it is exactly that!
The crankshaft is out; a real beauty!
The bores are perfect
The piston set
For the big end there is a solution. You need bearings for mitsubishi G13 (G15 engine) at 15.9 mm width. They are nominally 42/45 mm and fit in nicely. The only difference is the location lug; on mitsubishi bearings it is on the right, originals have them on left.
BUT, Yamaha did it's job nicely and left a space on big end on the right as well!
Have a look here:
There is original bearing still in. You need to file away about 0.1 mm on the replacement bearings and they fit in like a hand in a glove.
This is the replacement set inside big end. You can see the notches on the right as well as the hole which originals don't have.
This is the set you need:
All the things wrapped up. The Head and the block are off for machining to clean the surface for the head gasket, and crankshaft, flywheel and the water pulley are off for dynamic balancing.
This is the machine which was built by a guy doing the balance work; he made it him self
The sensors are at the back
And the results
Crankshaft is very well made, the guy says most probably the best one he ever saw from a car. It is on par with motocycle crankshafts. Still, he improved it and now is good enough for 12.000 rpm.
Two shiney drillings are the new ones, the rest are ex factory.
The flywheel was rather badly (in)balanced.
Here the problem is the OD which is big so the each gram counts for much bigger force.
And the waterpump pulley was bad. After I filed away the rust, it was inbalanced so had it balanced as well to avoid straining the waterpump bearing...
What next? I should be collecting the block and head from machining on Monday. The head will be completed with gap to camshaft set at 0.2 mm for inlet and 0.3 mm for the exhaust.
Still undecided which big end bearings to use. Wait for some plastigauge to arrive to measure the radial gap and then will decide.
The engine is equipped with FRP camshafts, will get the FRP replica exhaust and FRP map... Now you know what I have been doing for the past 6 months or so... The new(ish) engine and the B6 gearbox should make a nice puma, I would think :wink: