ABS pump fault

Hi folks!

Just taken my W reg (1700) Puma for an MOT and it failed because the ABS/TC light on the dash wouldn't go out.
I knew it would fail on this, but times being hard, I decided to get it MOTd to see if there were any other issues.
Luckily there weren't, so I got them to run a check, the sensors are all working properly but their machine showed a failure in the pump.
SO ...question, does anyone know how reliable these pumps are? Is an actual pump failure rare and is it more likely to be some sort of dodgy connection/relay/fuse?
If I need a new pump, does anyone have one for sale/if so how much?

Thanks in advance.

MM

Not renowned for it but I do sell a few.

Ensure the connector is seated properly, pull the purple tab upwards to release and lubricate with contact cleaner and re-seat before spending any money.

Its also fused:

Interior box by your knee -
Number 13 which is a 15A blue - also controls locking and clocks so you'd expect that to be OK if those are.

Engine bay box, depending on exactly the year its either -
Late car 24 (30A green), 26 (30A green) and 28 (3A violet)
Early car 30 (3A violet), 31 (30A green) and 33 (30A green)

Although I'm never normally a fan of changing a fuse and considering it fixed!

If those are OK and you want to try a pump they are here -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Fiesta-and-Puma-ABS-modulator-pump-98FB-2M110-BB-/171657000818

Thanks a million Ian, will let you know how things go and order one if needs be.

Hi, i've also been having problems with the ABS, started with the abs and t/c lights on, replaced both front sensors (replaced drivers side first) but lights were still on so replaced passenger side-lights went out but since then the ABS pump then started to come on with a grinding type noise and the peddle bouncing. I replaced the pump with a 2nd hand one but still had exactly the same problem. I've replaced the sensors again this time purchasing from another company but is still happening although less frequently, is going off when braking at low speed and intermittently at higher speed. A diagnostic came up with a low voltage fault so i have now got a brand new battery but still same problem but no faults showing this time. I've been advised its a common problem with the pumps.
Any ideas? would it be work trying a 2nd replacement pump?

This is from the Fiesta manual, regarding bleeding. It may be you have let air into the ABS hydraulic unit when replacing it:


Not sure if Forscan has a programme to do it.

https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=33383&p=376492&hilit=abs+pump#p376492

Forscan has ABS bleed function, the only question is whether it is supported on pre CAN cars which puma is

puma78 said:

Hi, i've also been having problems with the ABS, started with the abs and t/c lights on, replaced both front sensors (replaced drivers side first) but lights were still on so replaced passenger side-lights went out but since then the ABS pump then started to come on with a grinding type noise and the peddle bouncing. I replaced the pump with a 2nd hand one but still had exactly the same problem. I've replaced the sensors again this time purchasing from another company but is still happening although less frequently, is going off when braking at low speed and intermittently at higher speed. A diagnostic came up with a low voltage fault so i have now got a brand new battery but still same problem but no faults showing this time. I've been advised its a common problem with the pumps.
Any ideas? would it be work trying a 2nd replacement pump?

Click to expand...

Reading this post there is no mention about what has been looked at with regard to the rear brakes.

So have you removed the rear drums to see if there is brake dust on the rear ABS sensors, are the wheel cylinders/ shoes wet from leaking brake fluid ?

Are the rear shoes correctly adjusted ie are the self adjusters free to move on their teeth?


My thoughts are that if your rear brakes aren't working properly, then all your braking force will be on the fronts and the ABS might be kicking in because they are therefore about to lock up and the ABS is kicking in to prevent this with the resulting pulsating pedal

I'm certain the drum brakes had been adjusted as there were uneven when braking (advised on m.o.t) then he pumped the break peddle to get it hard again. I'm far from being a mechanic so not sure if that was the correct thing or not, the guy who did it is a former mechanic. I have in past couple of months got the Forscan sofware and cable and have done the abs pump reset a few times to see if that would purge any air that may have been in the system but has not made any difference.

I also have an ongoing fault with p0172 bank 1 sensor 1 fuel too rich. I have replaced both the o2 sensors, cleaned the MAF, tested the MAF (unplugged with engineer running and it almost died) changed the air filter and the code still keeps coming up. I had no abs issues on test drive after replacing the air filter then following day felt the car hesitating again above 3000revs then the abs pumped started again when i braked and shortly after the engineer management light came on again.

I'm about to give up as had both these issues now for months and seriously considering scrapping the car. Even a local garage cannot figure out whats causing the abs issue.

1) Which part of the country are you in as there are various knowledgable garages of the Puma listed on this site ?

2) What make and part number were the o2 sensors that were fitted to the car as replacements?

3) Sounds like you have an issue with the Sensor in the Exhaust manifold have you checked the connector is clean ,not corroded, Wiring undamaged etc?

4) Has the ECU been reset after the sensors were replaced , type in the search box how to do this.

5) There you go , before going any further get your rear brakes inspected & properly adjusted by someone who knows what they are doing , The MOT has confirmed my suspicions .

6) With regard to the hesitation above 3000rpm, are the spark plugs recent, Are the leads a tight fit onto the plugs as they have been known to pop off slightly causing a larger gap for the spark to jump.

7) When was the fuel filter last changed , if at all?

Running rich AND hesitation points at a spark problem. Plugs, wires, and coil should clear that up.
Agreed the ABS issue is starting to sound like a bad connection somewhere.

Thanks both of you. Im not sure of the history of the fuel filter, i replaced the ht leads, memory is terrible, cant remember if i replaced the plugs but i did check them a few days ago and gave a clean. Yous have certainly given me a lot to check out so looks like I’ll be a busy boy over the weekend, so thanks again guys, appreciate the tips.

mmc757 said:

Running rich AND hesitation points at a spark problem. Plugs, wires, and coil should clear that up.
Agreed the ABS issue is starting to sound like a bad connection somewhere.

Click to expand...

I bet the cam belt cover seal is leaking and the spark plugs are swimming in oil, shorting and causing this problems...