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Well done Sinia.

Just for reference though I have some big end bearings from LMS (which are KING brand IIRC) which are supposed to be heavy duty. The problem is I haven't try to install them to see the gap but LMS sells them as suitable for 1.7
 
XAF said:
[post]361941[/post] I'm gonna buy me a set of those before Suzuki run out!

I don't think there is a danger it could happen. They had them on stock in Hungary (there they produce cars) and they arrived within two days. Of course, bear in mind, a set consists of just one pair (you can see the 4 boxes pictured)
 
siju said:
[post]361951[/post] Well done Sinia.

Just for reference though I have some big end bearings from LMS (which are KING brand IIRC) which are supposed to be heavy duty. The problem is I haven't try to install them to see the gap but LMS sells them as suitable for 1.7

Really couldn't comment on that as I am unaware of what is in the box LMS is selling... Having seen your signature, it states you have 1.4 model. It is worth noting that all of the catalogues make an assumption that big ends are the same across Sigma engine family and that is not true! All the other engines have bigger big end compared to 1.7 which is the only one at 42/45 mm. If you have caliper gauge measure the outside dimensions of the bearings you have; if they are not 45 mm OD, they won't fit
 
Wild E. Coyote said:
[post]361955[/post]
siju said:
[post]361951[/post] Well done Sinia.

Just for reference though I have some big end bearings from LMS (which are KING brand IIRC) which are supposed to be heavy duty. The problem is I haven't try to install them to see the gap but LMS sells them as suitable for 1.7

Really couldn't comment on that as I am unaware of what is in the box LMS is selling... Having seen your signature, it states you have 1.4 model. It is worth noting that all of the catalogues make an assumption that big ends are the same across Sigma engine family and that is not true! All the other engines have bigger big end compared to 1.7 which is the only one at 42/45 mm. If you have caliper gauge measure the outside dimensions of the bearings you have; if they are not 45 mm OD, they won't fit

I have to change the signature. I have changed the engine to 1.7. When I prepared the swap I bought these bearings to freshen the engine but I then got bored and didn't use them. So I also can't comment if they fit. I see if I can find where I put them to measure them.

Sorry for the thread hijack!
 
Did some work today (and last week). Pleased to inform you all that engine is nearly finished. Need to dig out the TB that was refurbished almost two years ago and that will be it. The engine, as it stands ATM:







It is still on a palett and tied to it just in case. I tied it when I was torquing up the crankshaft pulley to prevent it from tipping over and it stayed like this...





Barry, I need to inform you that getting additional 90 degrees is piece of cake if you do it like this :grin:

Really have to go with Chris on this one; I think it really in the end is less hussle to get the engine out and do the service like this. Plenty of space, you can do everyhting and if you use the flywheel locking tool it really can be done in few minutes. Even phasing in the engine is piece of cake when you have plenty of space...

Now, onto the other thing, ie the B6 gearbox conversion. Again bolted the gearbox to the engine to have a look at it. Since I do have a puma spare gearbox and a set of driveshafts bolted them first to see what are required driveshaft lengths.
It turns out that both the short and the long driveshafts need shorting by about 2 cms each. And for the RHS shaft the intermediate shaft should be shortened as it is longer than the puma one.



This hurts: the driveshaft carrier is out of place for ST180 driveshaft



But, that should be shorter by 2 cms and that would bring the bearing closer by 2 cms. Still out of reach, but much easier to make a bespoke carrier.

Since both shafts need shorting by 2 cms, that could be good news for FRP owners as these driveshafts could actually fit their cars!

Still, they would need bespoke driveshaft bearing carrier. Oh, yes, the bearings are the same....

One more thing: what is the hole right to the timing pin hole (marked with red arrow) used for? If it not needed, it can be used as additional fixation for the bespoke driveshaft carrier..
 
Hi Sinisa
Well done again but three things about using the Ford special tools for fixing the crank pulley bolt:
1. You don't have to take the engine out and
2. The special tool holds the vib damper whilst you are tightening the bolt, whereas using the flywheel locker there's nothing to stop the vib damper pulley rotating with the bolt therefore you should re-time/ re-position the crank again.
3. The weight of your car works to your benefit.
My comment about the 90 deg was regarding how much power it takes to get the 90 deg as shown by your massive extension bar :grin:
I'll make moves to send out that gearbox mount for you tomorrow if that parcel monkey quote I give you is ok
Barry
 
Cheers, Barry!

Of course, you are right regarding the pulley, but I torqued it up first, and then timed the engine :grin:
And, special tools cost money, the extension bar in question is the remnant of my kids hockey stick...

The quote is quite OK, thanks
 
Nice work Sinisa. I don't know what that hole in the back of the engine block is.

I agree that torquing the vib damper(the 90deg part) with the engine out of car is easy. Of course you have to time the engine after that. The difficult part for me was torquing the cams (especially the inlet which goes to 105Nm IIRC). If you have the std cams then you have the locking bar (and the spanner of course). But if you have frp cams which have different timing (and don't have the special locking tool but use Errol's method) then it's quite difficlut to hold the cam at the right angle!

Looking forward to the progress with the gearbox.
 
Hi Siju
It's probably just the way you've worded it so just in case anyone else is reading it the camshaft plate is a timing plate and not a locking plate as if they use it as such and not the spanner flats the end of the camshafts will break. You are dead right about tightening the VCT pulley though it's a hard horrible job.
Barry
 
Every time you guys talk cambelts I remain resolute that I never ever want to touch it!!!!
 
Wild E. Coyote said:
[post]362367[/post] That way you miss an additional bonding with your car! :cool:

But also it avoids breaking it and posts to you lovely gents saying "why have my pistons and valves had a full on fight and a conrod decided to leave the party through the side of the block!!" :oops:
 
Hi Guys
Whilst you are still online here, James is it still ok to use your paypal and if it is, Sinisa the mount will be picked up tomorrow and be with you in 5-7 days?
Barry
 
tuonokid said:
[post]362369[/post] Hi Guys
Whilst you are still online here, James is it still ok to use your paypal and if it is, Sinisa the mount will be picked up tomorrow and be with you in 5-7 days?
Barry

No worries at all Barry. I'll drop you a text.
 
Went to MOT yesterday.... Again that part of a year.



And here is JASAPP queuing up


Pleased to say JASAPP passed with flying colours! The tester was particularly impressed by brakes and their even operation. The difference on front axis was 2 percent, on rear 3 percent (also for hand brake). The service I did a while ago certainly paid off!
Everything worked as intended, he liked the seats and JASAPP also starred on exhaust test: everything deep in green. Tester was impresssed by its emission taken into account the cat was never replaced and the car has covered 236.000 kms

So, these cars are really well built machines! :wub:
 
Are MoT's a drive through affair with you guys then?
 
TBH, not really. It starts with you entering the testing lane (is that ok word to be used?) with your headlights on. Then you stop on the suspension strecher (the movable platform that tests the bushes and streches everything) and steer left and right a bit. The tester goes under the car and checks (visually) everything. Then he climbs out of a hole and sits behind the SW. He checks instrumentation and that lights, side repeaters, wipers and washer work and then proceeds onto the brake testers. Brakes with front wheels on the tester, proceeds to do the same with rear brakes (including the parking brake) and gose to the emission test. First he conditions a catalyst to bring it up to temperature and then does few measurings (at idle and 2000-3000 rpm). After that he checks the headlight aiming and that is it.
If all is ok, it lasts about 15 minutes and you go for stamping your documentation and paying for it all...
I would imagine it is pretty much the same in UK?
 
Wild E. Coyote said:
[post]362387[/post] TBH, not really. It starts with you entering the testing lane (is that ok word to be used?) with your headlights on. Then you stop on the suspension strecher (the movable platform that tests the bushes and streches everything) and steer left and right a bit. The tester goes under the car and checks (visually) everything. Then he climbs out of a hole and sits behind the SW. He checks instrumentation and that lights, side repeaters, wipers and washer work and then proceeds onto the brake testers. Brakes with front wheels on the tester, proceeds to do the same with rear brakes (including the parking brake) and gose to the emission test. First he conditions a catalyst to bring it up to temperature and then does few measurings (at idle and <a href="tel:2000-3000">2000-3000</a> rpm). After that he checks the headlight aiming and that is it.
If all is ok, it lasts about 15 minutes and you go for stamping your documentation and paying for it all...
I would imagine it is pretty much the same in UK?

Ha, ha. No!!

You turn up, they look at you as if you've just run over their dog, ask if you're sure it's booked in, tell you to come back in a few hours after they've had a fag and a biscuit. It's not a nice experience usually!

I actually used to help do MoT's many years ago and I'm sure it's not fundentally changed other than computerisation. There are no testing lanes or suspension tables. On the ramp, jack up the front, check. Jack up the back, check. Prod rusty parts with an official MoT hammer (which back in the day was suspiciously clean hanging on the wall as the tester where I worked preferred to us a small crow bar. I kid you not!), then do emissions and brakes.

15 mins would be a dream. 45 mins at least
 
:lol: 15 minutes sounds like pure fantasy, not to mention all this wizardry with suspension tests.

That sounds a lot more standardised than we have here, you could literally take your car to two places 1 mile apart and they'd pick up on completely different things. I'm sure it's just a perception thing as a customer and it probably is supposed to adhere to a structure..
 

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