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g-whizz said:
[post]362595[/post] Any other suggestions also welcome. :eek:k:
I'll keep this short, as I'm in a rush - use a plastic pipette to squirt the Vactan into the rear arch creases and at least 2inches up each inner/outer arch Don't forget to squirt into the rear part of the arch curve from the boot. Put a spot light where the speaker housing was and you can see in the boot where your hand and pipette need to go. Do 3 coats and allow each to dry.

If you do have any holes, then put the Vactan in a garden sprayer and 'atomise' it in there (I didn't need to do this.)

Finish the job with 2+ coats of Dinitrol Cavity Wax, again allowing each to dry otherwise you'll 'loosen' the previous coat and it might run down. Dry anything with a COLD fan blowing inside the car.

Finally, check your speakers for sun fade/splits (easy to repair if needed) and do the rear part of the sills while you're there. The sills have a 'membrane 'middle sill in there, so be sure to get both sides.

Was in that area a few weeks back and my arch stuff is looking as good as the day I did it 3 years ago.
 
Frank said:
[post]362603[/post]
g-whizz said:
[post]362595[/post] Any other suggestions also welcome. :eek:k:
I'll keep this short, as I'm in a rush - use a plastic pipette to squirt the Vactan...
Was in that area a few weeks back and my arch stuff is looking as good as the day I did it 3 years ago.

Cheers Frank, :eek:k: looks like I need to sort it with new metal apparently...or maybe glassfibre mat if it's possible?
Will employ your method though after (and on the other side) as prevention.
 
g-whizz said:
[post]362616[/post] looks like I need to sort it with new metal apparently..
Nope, relax, you don't have the problem you think you have. This is in a non-structural area (if it was structural then it must be welded, no if, no buts) and the original cause of the rust is known - https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=338501#p338501. There's stuff about Vactan here - https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=348767#p348767

This is a job you can do yourself - don't use that gel though, you want a thin rust convertor here, such as Vactan, that can get down right into that crease at a microscopic level, including into the original turned seam, if the welder's didn't remove it. Vactan is also a primer, which is why I suggested the extra coats. I'm not keen on slapping fibreglass over previously rusted areas with holes in them, as it is then well nigh impossible to keep an eye on the area in future. As any holes you have on that inner arch only require mechanical blocking to prevent moisture ingress from the outside, then I suggest you treat those areas from the outside with Vactan and follow up with something as simple as trowelling mastic and then put your arch liners back on. It will achieve what is needed, but leave the interior 'crease' available for future inspection. Then just finish the job with the cavity wax as outlined above.
 
Frank said:
[post]362631[/post]
Nope, relax, you don't have the problem you think you have... This is a job you can do yourself - don't use that gel though, you want a thin rust convertor here, such as Vactan... I'm not keen on slapping fibreglass over previously rusted areas with holes in them, as it is then well nigh impossible to keep an eye on... Then just finish the job with the cavity wax as outlined above.

Hi Frank, cheers for that, already got some Vactan as used it on something else so will get on with it. :eek:k:
 

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