Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

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Regarding cleaning: use brake cleaner and all the oil will be off in seconds.

Regarding the engine issues, is your timing right? There is a special procedure for setting up the timing tensioner, is J aware of it? If he just bolted the tensioner without following the pin procedure (plenty of info here about the proper timing procedure for the 1.7 engine) the engine could be out by some small margin and work rough
 
I'm going to a local garage today. I'm going to mention all the things you've recommended and get them to work on the car. I know J meant well and wants the car up and running properly, but I think it needs to go elsewhere for a second opinion. Mainly to give me piece of mind, I know J is a good mechanic, but the advice on here and then the advice J gives me often seems conflicting. So a second set of eyes on the problem might offer alternative solutions, plus they offer a courtesy car too.

Thanks for the tip on the brake cleaner. I'll get some today and do that before the MOT on Thursday. I'll mentioned the clutch sensor, VSS and timing regarding the engine issues. Then the gearbox mount, slave cylinder, oil breather and driveshaft seal for the gearbox issues.

As for the timing, Justin said he'd read up about it all before doing it

Ed
 
Garage I went to seemed rather clueless, I didn't get a good feeling about them at all. They also said they'd be hesitant to do any work on a non-standard engine.

Got back home and the puddle is a lot worse.

thumbnail_IMG_20190409_083337.jpg

Ed
 
Garage near where I work said they can have a look at the leak today, to at least give me an idea where it's coming from and what would need doing. They also offer a courtesy car, so if needs be I wouldn't be stuck. They said they'd get it on the ramp and look at it while I wait. With any luck I'll get a confirmation of a specific time for the windscreen to get looked at tomorrow so then I could potentially drop it off at the garage to get the leak fixed.

I think the leak is most crucial to get fixed at this point. Once that's done and the MOT is done I can then focus on the judder and the gearbox ticking. All going well, those will be fixed in time for the bodywork to then be repaired.

Ed
 
J told me he's free at midday so I went to his as he said I'd be overcharged ar a garage. I know he wants the work. I did feel a bit more at ease after visiting and it seems his time keeping now is spot on.

New jubilee clip put on coolant hose. J said its lost around 100ml of gearbox oil. He said he thinks he might have overfilled it as it was coming out the top out the breather.

He said the transmission was caked in old oil and said this probably has leaked before. He knows a guy who specialises in Ford gearboxes and will find out if he's got a puma ib5 and a recon kit. I'm asking about buying a driveshaft seal as well in the mean time. He said for now the gearbox will be fine and he cleaned it all up with degrease.

Lamda and cold air induction delivery still tbc.

Other than that, no other updates really. Windscreen tomorrow. Eta still not confirmed they said they'd send a text with a specific time. They sent a text saying between 8am and 5pm. So I'll leave the car at work and go into town I guess

Ed
 
I got the driveshaft seals just in case. I'll just ask him to fit them. Tempted to do the same for the VSS.

Awaiting a reply about the gearbox. I'm glad we met up regularly and chatted though. Turns out we've got a lot of similarities and interests which is nice to see. I think it's helped things go smoother and prevented the delays.

Going to have to do a 14 hour shift at work tomorrow. Windscreen repair is still between 8am and 5pm so I figured I'd just go in for 8am and work until 10pm. MOT on Thursday, so fingers crossed for that one. Apparently this guy is a little "lenient" shall we say. Plus i'm dropping it off at Smokey's (the guy who'll do the bodywork), this guy looks like he's been lifted out of 1969. Old school hippie lol. Meeting him again means I might get an idea on when the bodywork can be sorted.

It's all coming together now.

Ed
 
Hi,

I've found a guide to where it is.

http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98605

Could be tricky with the new inlet manifold, but i'll give it a look now.

Ed
 
It's definitely not where it was shown to be in the pictures. I guess it's been relocated due to the new inlet manifold being installed. I couldn't see where it was and I don't have a jack to get under the car to see where it's been relocated to.

The leak is tiny now by the way. So there's something positive.

Ed
 
On a side note - is there anywhere that sells headlight seals for the upper part of the headlight? Mine are sagging. J said it could be glued back on and one of the lights looks like it had been repaired in the past.

Ed
 
raggamuffin said:
On a side note - is there anywhere that sells headlight seals for the upper part of the headlight? Mine are sagging. J said it could be glued back on and one of the lights looks like it had been repaired in the past.

Ed

All is written. You just need to search for it.... https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=31290&p=369317&hilit=New+Headlight+Rubbers#p369317
 
I might go for the clutch release bearing as a cheaper and hopefully successful means of fixing the gearbox rattle. That, along with the driveshaft seal I got today, and maybe the gearbox issues will be fixed.

Lambda arrived today and i'll ask J to check the VSS when he does the other work on Wednesday.

The leak/puddle was smaller today, but it seems weird that it's dripping from various places. I wonder if the coolant hose is still leaking.

Do these look right for the clutch release?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=ford+puma+1.7+clutch+release&LH_PrefLoc=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=ford+puma+1.7+clutch+release+bearing&_sacat=0

Ed
 
I just had a thought - the oil leak seems to have coincided with when J had to adjust the gearbox to sort out the issue I was having getting the gearstick into 1st gear. I also have asked him if he filled it with 75W-90 otherwise this could be causing the leak.

However, J did say at the time the gearbox seemed quite oily underneath. Maybe it had been leaking since the rebuild and I never noticed. Which could mean it was overfilled?

Anyways, I'm going to get J to finish up the work next Wednesday for lambda, struts, door cards and cold air induction. After that I'll have a word with the old mechanic I used to use.

On a cold start, if I don't rev the engine it'll stall. When I let go of the accelerator coming up to junctions - it'll stall. It's a pain to be honest, and quite dangerous having to try and brake and accelerate whilst in neutral to keep the car going.

Anyways, windscreen has just been fitted and looks lovely. We've got the MOT tomorrow. Hopefully this tester is as lenient as the guy said. I'll ask him to clean up the transmission case before the test and advise them that I've bought the driveshaft seal but we think it's been overfilled. Might work?

Ed
 
Well it was filled with 75W-90. So I've queried if the leak is due to overfilling, when the leaking should stop.

UPDATE: He said it'll stop leaking when the fluid level is correct.

Regarding the gearbox rattle, this looks like the right clutch CSC but can someone please confirm? Mine's a 2001 reg.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-PUMA-1-7-Clutch-Concentric-Slave-Cylinder-CSC-97-to-98-Central-Sachs-New/233164018816?epid=1724775478&hash=item3649a89480:g:7M4AAOSw81lchvby#vi-ilComp

Ed
 
raggamuffin said:
On a cold start, if I don't rev the engine it'll stall. When I let go of the accelerator coming up to junctions - it'll stall. It's a pain to be honest, and quite dangerous having to try and brake and accelerate whilst in neutral to keep the car going.

OK, this is new diagnosis and this points to IAV (Idle Air Valve).




Most likely it is clogged solid. You can try cleaning it by brake cleaner and using some old rags and see if it improves things. Try avoiding the brake cleaner getting to the electric side where is connector. If you clean it most likely it will start operating again and sort out your idleing issues. Maybe the connector is not connected?
 
Going by the picture I can't locate this. I've asked Chris at LMS if this and the VSS have to be relocated due to the LMS intake manifold. Because I've looked long and hard in the engine bay and going by the pictures on the VSS and IAV and they're definitely not where they are on the standard engine bay. I'll make a video and put it on YouTube as it could shed some light on things, maybe you can point them out if you spot them in the video?

Ed
 
IAV has to be somewhere on inlet manifold downstream of the throttle butterfly.

VSS is on top of gearbox and can't be relocated anywhere. But now that you have said this about cold start and not idleing at all, this is almost 100% IAV that is clogged and seized.
 
Decided to text Chris @ LMS and he said idle speed motor is on the underside of inlet manifold and not in standard position. No speedo changes to fit manifold. He queried if it's on standard map, what throttle body and what cams. Just waiting on a reply now.

If the IAV is on the underside of the inlet manifold I'd need to jack the car up? Does the Puma come with a jack as standard? Need to rummage through the boot I guess. There's still the old inlet manifold and cams in there so I'll need to get rid of those before I can check to see if there's a jack.

UPDATE: Chris @ LMS said it shouldn't be doing this on LM2 cams and to check it on diagnostics to see what's happening. :| He said everything you said to check though too: idle motor, lambda, clogged throttle body, cam timing issue or air flow meter.

Thing is, I know things could be checked for connections or cleaned as a temp solution. But I'm rather tempted to just bite the bullet and get all these parts new so I know they're all good. I know the throttle body is fine. I just hope it's one of these parts and not the timing issue.

Ed
 

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