Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

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Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sat Apr 13, 2019 11:25 am

Lack of updates asking for some advices would imply that the problem is solved?
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Post by raggamuffin » Sat Apr 13, 2019 8:18 pm

Judder isn't as bad but still not 100%. RPM dipping and trying to stall hasn't been solved either. He said the engine sounds like the cams are the issue. He recommended a remap and maybe see if the cam timing needs changing.

I think taking it to Lightning Motorsport might be the best solution for both.

Also gained an intermittent and high pitched whistling noise at low speed and idle. He thinks it could be the idle air valve leaking. He made a papergasket. The previous one had old silicone blocking up the valve.

He's asking if the idle control valve has a specific gasket as it didn't come with one?

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sat Apr 13, 2019 8:36 pm

No special gasket, you can put in two O-rings for the openings or cut your own gasket if needed.
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Post by raggamuffin » Sun Apr 14, 2019 10:26 am

He made a cut out from some brown paper assuming it'd work but it didn't. What else could the gasket be made from? He reckons that it must be this where the whistling noise is coming from. Idling when parked or driving at low speed and low rpm there's a constant high pitched whistle that becomes inaudible at higher speeds.

J will be fitting the door cards and struts on Wednesday. I'll ask him to try and sort out the whistle too.

Failing all that I'll have a word with Chris @ LMS and find out when he'd be free to look at the car. I'd probably have to take a days holiday to get the car sorted. Hopefully once and for all.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:39 am

When it came to installing the lambda he asked which one it was. I said I'd bought a generic 4 wire lambda as per J's recommendation. He said he never had much luck with generic sensors and recommended getting an OEM equivalent.

Are these the 2 types I'd need to buy?
cat2.PNG
If this doesn't work then I assume it must be a timing issue then?

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 15, 2019 10:43 am

Chris @ LMS said he'd get back to me about availability for next week. I hope it doesn't come to involving a 3rd mechanic at this point. With any luck the judder and the gearbox rattle can be sorted on Wednesday. Then everything is solved except for the bodywork.

If I did ever have to go to get any work or mods done at LMD I would have to book holiday time off work. It's a 2 hour drive so I'd probably have to book a local hotel if it was ever going to be a long job. Other than the remap I don't think anything else would need to be done by them. J is adamant the cam timing is fine.

I really hope it's a quick and inexpensive fix. After all this time and money - I just want to enjoy a working car at this point.

Ed
Last edited by raggamuffin on Mon Apr 15, 2019 11:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 15, 2019 11:24 am

J has asked me not to get anyone else to work on the car if he still is. He said the whistle is possible the induction kit or the idle air valve. Guess I'll have to wait and see on Wednesday.

Ed
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Post by red » Mon Apr 15, 2019 12:42 pm

It's a fair comment from "J" if he's working to try and get it up and running, he probably does not need other peoples work in play at the same time.
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 15, 2019 2:43 pm

True enough. My patience is just a bit all over the place at the moment. I'll avoid going to anyone else until this is fixed. I hope Wednesday gets the remaining 3 issues solved.

Got more parts today in the post. New headlight seals, new coolant header tank and a Sachs slave cylinder.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 15, 2019 3:40 pm

Puma05.jpg
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Post by red » Mon Apr 15, 2019 9:33 pm

8-) certainly looks the part if nothing else
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 15, 2019 10:53 pm

Induction noise



Rough idling when parked




Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:54 am

Cars being looked at on Thursday now and not Wednesday. I don't mind to be honest. The situation isn't ideal by any means, but it's workable and that's the main thing. I mustn't grumble. At the end of the day, the delays in this project seemed unacceptable, and yet I could do nothing but accept them. Wasn't in a position to go elsewhere. We met once, for 15 minutes and he took the car away and got on with his life.

Can't say they've had it easy themselves, and I wasn't making life much simpler on myself on my side of things. Delays upon delays came and went, but I got the car back. There's work to be done, but it's served me nearly 600 miles. Had it been something major, I can't imagine I'd still be driving it

Is what it is at the end of the day. Now we've met several times, it turns out we get on really well. Hence I think there's been this almost miraculous turn of events where he's gone from inert to a seemingly explosive outburst of getting things done. His wife told me that she has every confidence in his ability to sort out any of the issues. He's a long history and passion for Ford cars and he's really set on fixing these issues. After all, this is his project, probably even moreso than mine at the end of the day. He's the one who's taken it apart and wants to see it performing as it should.

Neither of us can admit defeat at this point. Fingers crossed for good news.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 22, 2019 2:28 pm

BIG UPDATE:

Low RPM judder and rough idling fixed. Poorly fitted Idle Air Valve and Lambda to blame.

Gearbox rattle has been confirmed as clutch release bearing. Will wait until next month to get another clutch to be fitted along with it.

Car due back tomorrow.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Tue Apr 23, 2019 12:36 pm

Idling is better - the IAV is catching the dip in revs. It's still noticeable; moreso with the Mondeo throttle body fitted. he said it's rather worn and it doesn't make a complete seal as the butterfly valve is slightly oval from use over the years. He said before that the idling was spot on with the original Puma throttle body. So I have to weigh up if I'd prefer better throttle response or smoother idling.

J pointed out the kangarooing at low revs is only if the throttle is barely pressed. When you put your foot down a little firmer it stops completely. He put the original MAF on, stating that the 3rd party one's aren't very good at all. The air temp sensor from the old inlet manifold is now on the LMS inlet manifold.

He also said the NSF inner CV gaitor clip was intact and wasn't sure why it was highlighted on the MOT.

On another note, being so tall I didn't notice until later in the day but the ABS and traction control lights are now on. I've got some time off work next week so I'm getting J to finish up the clutch and potentially put the old throttle body on. Just have to wait and see.

The idling and fuel economy has noticeably improved. As has the power curve which now has completely smooth delivery, which is lovely.

J also noticed the rear has poly bushings installed. He'll check the front one's when he sorts the clutch next week.

Good progress all in all. Especially not having to worry about stalling when coming up to junctions.

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Tue Apr 23, 2019 4:50 pm

Ok, with all your modifications try now disconnecting the battery for few minutes to reset the PCM (ECU). Then start the car and let it idle until the fan comes on. In the process (while it is idling switch on the lights, cabin blower (to all positions), rear window heater, A/C if you got one and let the engine regain itself with additional power users coming on and off. That way the self learning procedure will be done properly and the idling values stored. It might solve the mondeo buetterfly problem as well, as the engine will allow for the leakage and compensate it with IAV doing its job properly.

Glad it is coming together now!
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Post by raggamuffin » Tue Apr 23, 2019 5:26 pm

Thanks for the advice, I'll recommend this to J. he also said a crank speed sensor might be worth replacing. He said a coolant temp sensor and cam position sensor wouldn't be a bad idea either. But he said the crank speed sensor would be an important one.

Anyways, with 5 days off next week he has plenty of time to finish up the final few jobs and get the clutch/clutch bearing sorted.

After that, I'm thinking of booking a week off in July for my birthday and giving him the car then to sort out the rust (as he primarily specialises in bodywork repairs).

After that's all done it'll be a hunt for Millie Recaros and replacing the door speakers and head unit. Nothing excessively bassy or ridiculous. I hear someone from Allison Automotive has done speaker jobs before, so it might be worth a visit.

J said he got an intermittent ABS/traction light on and said to keep an eye on it. The idling is the biggest relief for me. No fear in stalling at junctions now. The powerband having no dips now is really impressive. 4k-6k and the power is really noticeable. Now that the oil is changed I reckon let the engine do another 1500 miles and change again. After that I'll change every 6k miles.

So glad it's all coming together now though. Plus J is working for £80 for a full days work which isn't bad at all really. Saving a fortune compared to going to a garage.

Once the rest of the parts are done and the rust and the interior is all sorted I can work on the rest of the performance parts - exhaust manifold, sports cat, poly bushings and end on a remap.

With any luck it'll all be done before the end of the year.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Tue Apr 23, 2019 10:55 pm

Judders very noticeable on cold start but not at all bad once warmed up. I don't think it's any better than it was, but the idling certainly is. As is the power.

Here's hoping one of the next few sensors or possible fixes can resolve the issue.

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Wed Apr 24, 2019 5:36 am

Nearly there!
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 24, 2019 2:36 pm

Just had a call from J. He spoke to a local parts dealer and confirmed pricing at just under 100 for the 3 sensors. All genuine Ford parts.

Crank position sensor coolant temp sensor and cam position sensor.

All ordered and to be fitted next week along with the clutch and clutch bearing

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Wed Apr 24, 2019 4:43 pm

J confirmed beginning of July is good for dealing with the rust. Thinking maybe I should get the 3 struts resprayed in same colour as the inlet manifold?

Pacific green metallic

Not sure if it'd contrast well with the silver. But I think the engine bay needs more matching colours. As a green inlet manifold and red strut brace would look horrific.

Ed
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Post by Wild E. Coyote » Sun Apr 28, 2019 7:08 am

Lack of posts would implicate the car is running well now? 8-)

And I was reluctant, given your impulse nature of buying all the stuff we recommended worth checking :wink: , to advise to you to check the TPS (Throttle position sensor) for the judder. The MAF is clean?
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 29, 2019 11:36 am

Car has been running the same. Better than it was, but still not perfect. The car is being dropped off at the workshop tomorrow night. Getting it back end of the week. I'm only working today and tomorrow then I have holiday, so I figured it was a good time for J to work on the car.

Third party MAF was no good according to J, so he fitted the original back on. He made no mention about it being cleaned. TPS is different to the one's I bought I assume? Stage 1 clutch, clutch bearing, crank position sensor, coolant temp sensor and cam position sensor will all be fitted when the car has been dropped off.

Also got a new coolant tank to be fitted along with the door cards and struts that still need fitting.

Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:56 pm

Being 6'4" doesn't make a Puma spacious.
58689334_119809245877799_609489029334827008_n.jpg
Ed
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Post by raggamuffin » Tue Apr 30, 2019 7:28 am

Stage 1 clutch ordered. It's purple - a colour that makes everything better, unless it's your skin colour.
s-l500.jpg
s-l500.jpg (24.85 KiB) Viewed 473 times
It's organic, gluten and dairy free.

Ed
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