Puma 1.7 Rebuild Mk II

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Got a text last night works not being done today. Dropping it off at his at 10am tomorrow and he'll give me a lift to work and pick me up in the puma after work. He said he'd do a full day on the car.

ABS issue is getting worse, having to rely on the handbrake to stop the car after the speed drops below 10mph. Sometimes there's a creaking noise at low speeds 1-5 mph or so from the front of the car. When this occurs and I then apply the brakes, the ABS issue arises.

J reckons he can fit all the parts tomorrow (asides from the clutch). The main thing I'm hoping for is that these 3 new sensors fix the rough idling and low rpm judder. These problems have persisted since I got the car back, and until they're fixed, any other progress is going to feel a little hollow.

As for keeping the car long term, it's all still a little up in the air. Whilst the setbacks are out of my hands, they're the main reason the project has felt so emotionally exhausting.

At the end of the day I do enjoy the car, and I know I will love the car once all the problems are gone. It remains somewhat impractical in terms of interior space (being 6'4") and fuel economy. But I think I'd thoroughly regret parting with the car if I was to do so.

Ed
 
Dropped the car off at 10am. Full days work to be done and he'll drop off the car tonight. I gave him a list in order of preference:

Reattach or remove underside heatshield (the rattle was driving me insane).
Check ABS issue and repair or remove faulty sensor (will order another sensor if required).
Fit 3 new sensors to hopefully fix the low rpm judder and rough idling (finally?)
Fit strut braces.
Fit millennium edition door cards.
Clean headlight plastics to remove cloudiness and fit new rubber seals.

With any luck, all of the above can be sorted in the 12 hours he'll have the car. Once that's done it should just be the clutch and rust that needs sorting.

I really hope the low RPM judder and rough idling is fixed. If not, I'm not sure what else we can try other than the timing (which J is adament is fine). Or buy a genuine Ford MAF as J said 3rd party one's are problematic. Only problem with that is that the genuine Ford part is just shy of £300 and there's no guarantee it'll fix the problem.

So who knows? I'd be lying if I said I was excited to get the car back. With one problem after another with this project, I'm not sure what'll happen next.

Ed
 
Text J to remind him to meet me at 10pm. He text me back asking if the Puma had new brakes fitted. Haven't had anything brake related fitted since I've owned the car. He just replied and said apparently they are like new. So maybe it's a broken sensor?

Ed
 
3 sensors fitted, brakes cleaned, or some part to do with the ABS sensor. He said they were caked in rust. The brake discs themselves were in very good condition. ABS light comes on intermittently. When I left his the creaking at low speed happened as soon as I left as did the brake judder. I assumed it was a bit of rust remaining after being cleaned and that it would clear up. The pedal judder was different and sure enough after a few miles and various braking intervals it went away.

He said I can take the car to his on Saturday to get the struts and door cards done. Judder persists. Idling is a little smoother. Bit the bullet and bought a genuine Ford MAF sensor. Heatshield has been removed, no more rattle.

I'll try disconnecting the battery for most of my shift when I get to work tomorrow and see if that helps the judder and idling.

Will keep you all posted as ever.

Ed
 
I feel like owning the Puma is similar to those Top Gear specials, before the trio moved to the Grand Tour. Driving a car with all sorts of issues, that you still find truly endearing to own.

On another note, what could be causing the heater to fail to produce much cold air? I think the A/C needs regassing, but I find when I put the interior fans on (without A/C active), the fans blow hot air for a minute or so before getting colder. They never blow cold air unless the outside temperature is cold, it's always semi-warm.

Ed
 
Judder is getting worse. Happening at higher revs/speeds now. If this MAF sensor and disconnecting battery/resetting ECU doesn't fix it, I'm going to have to go to a Ford garage to get them to run diagnostics and let me know what else I need to throw money at.

Brake judder and ABS/Traction lights are still intermittent too. So that's more money no doubt on sensors or fixing a wiring issue.

Car still likes to stall when coming to a stop in traffic when the engine RPM dips below it's idling line. Car continues to randomly creek at slow speeds and when this occurs I know the ABS judder will happen when I apply the brakes too.

Now a bulb/LED on the dashboard is flickering on and off intermittently too

I genuinely haven't been able to fully enjoy the car since getting it back due to these persistent issues. I really am set at selling the car at this point. Get the last of the parts fitted - clutch, MAF, struts, door cards. Then get the arches fixed early July and then sell it - there's no doubt in my mind at this point, the car has to go.

This project from start to finish has been an expensive disaster and I'm well and truly at breaking point now. What's troubling is that I don't really have a hope of getting much money for the car unless I can get these issues fixed.

Anyways, if anyone is interested in taking this car off me once I've had the last of the parts fitted, then PM me.

Ed
 
Updated the for sale post:

https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=32835&p=373314#p373314

It's alarming how I didn't realise how many issues the car still had until I came to actually write them all down.

Ed
 
I guess it's never too late in the project for a little DIY, especially with the RPM judder getting even worse. So I decided I might as well fit the new Ford MAF myself on my lunch break. Borrowed some tools from the workshop above our office. The swap was straightforward enough. I've disconnected the battery for an hour as well to reset the ECU. Found this on another post on this forum from user called YOG:

Ford Technical:
After reconnecting battery, engine should be allowed to idle for 3 minutes, as stored idle and drive values contained within the powertrain control module have been lost. This may cause a driveability concern if the following is not carried out.

Once engine reaches normal operating temperature, revs should be increased to 1,200rpm and maintained for approximately 2 minutes. This will allow powertrain control module to relearn idle values. For powertrain control module to complete its learning strategy, vehicle should be driven for approximately 5 miles of varied driving.



So i'll try that once I reconnect the battery. I hope and pray that this fixes the rough idling and low RPM judder. Otherwise there's no more sensors to replace, and I'm going to be sincerely stumped on what to do next.

Ed
 
Seems to have helped the rough idling quite considerably. I drove it up and down the road for 5 mins or so.

Idling dips, IAV catches and it goes back to a smooth idle.

I'll do various driving on the way home, get the ECU up to speed and i'll keep you posted. I don't want to count my chickens yet, but if the low rpm judder is gone too, this could be 2 of the original issues fixed, and if that's the case - I can't even begin to say how relieved I am.

Ed
 
Hopefully you've done it, it's quite rewarding repairing faults on your own car. I would of thought you could do the door cards yourself too. There's always going to be things you need an expert for but why don't you see what you can do yourself? It might make you feel a bit more positive about the car and what you've achieved.
 
raggamuffin said:
Seems to have helped the rough idling quite considerably. I drove it up and down the road for 5 mins or so.

Idling dips, IAV catches and it goes back to a smooth idle.
I am fully aware of the TIS recommendation, but it was written with service (as a job) for making money and saving time. I have found the best way of relearning the ECU is to let it idle until it cycles through two fan activations and between the first and second adding some strain on the engine (switching the lights, cabin blower, A/C on and off until all the combos have been tried with the final one with all on). That way you will have rock steady idling values programmed in.
This procedure is for sure better but it takes more time than the TIS recommendation. Anyway, you are there :wink:
 
I did the procedure they recommended first and then I did what you suggested with the lights, A/C and blower etc. Then spent 5 mins going up and down the road near where I work.

I'll let you know how it goes on the drive home. Justin rang me immediately after I text him saying what I'd done. Big relief for both of us to be fair. I really hope this puts an end to this idling/juddering fiasco.

Then at least I can enjoy driving the car without having to constantly adjust my speed to prevent the car from acting up.

Ed
 
I've driven around 40 miles since the reset.

Judder is back. Poor idling is back.

Well, unless anyone can recommend another sensor or thing to check - I think I'm about done.

Ed
 
Dirrrtty injectors.

Hmm. I'll ask J to check these. On a brighter note I interviewed for a new job today and got the job. I'm leaving my current one in 2 weeks time. :grin:

Ed
 
raggamuffin said:
Dirrrtty injectors.

Hmm. I'll ask J to check these. On a brighter note I interviewed for a new job today and got the job. I'm leaving my current one in 2 weeks time. :grin:

Ed
You could take a risk and insert some redex cleaner?! (Risk because it is not good for the nicisil (sp!) coatings of the engine.
Although once or twice every couple of years hasn't seem to hurt it!
 

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