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Hi Barry,

The regular fork spanner (as we call it) is not a solution as there is no space for it;the other line is very close. Any variation including that fork spanner is a no go solution.
It has to be like this, unfortunately, or the regular spanner for the hidrualic lines. That one was unobtainable so....
 
Just to report that JASAPP passed MOT again with flying colours! :grin:

Had a bit of problem initally, but that was due to me, not the car! When I appeared at MOT station, the lady at reception desk reported that my ID has expired. And she was right. Surely I can approach MOT with driver's licence? Nope, only ID or passport are valid documents. Since we became part of EU passport was no longer needed I had let it expire on purpose, but forgot to check on ID expiry date. So, it was a no go. But, in all clarity and whisdom, our goverment has left a possibility of me to authorize someone to do it for me. There is even a form for doing so. And, this is my favourite part, I can just sign it and no documents are needed to give somebody authorisation for that?!?! So I, the owner, can't approach a MOT without valid ID, but I, still without valid ID, can authorize someone to do it for me?!?
Stupid bureacrats. So I authorised my wife to stand by me while the MOT was taking place. Went to a different station but the set of questions and wonders was the same.

Are those original headlights? Yes they are.
They surely don't look like it?! You can check here the homologation numbers if you like, they are genuine....

That settled that.

Time for brake efficiency test. Hummmh, this can't be right...
Again (fiddling with his remote to start the rollers again). Hummh, this can't be right... (now turning to me): what is the mileage of this car? It is in front of you, sir, 243785 kms...
I have never seen so even brake operation on a car which is not new, even the new ones don't brake like this...?!

(I checked the printout later; front brakes have difference of 3% left and right, rears are dead same (0%) and the hand brake is the same as well).
Checked the headlights aiming and that was it. The ecotest (emissions test) was spot on, everything deep in the green. A really well made car! With that done, and weather warming up the ecoboost swap is getting imminent... :wink:
 
Great result Sinisa!!

Love it when garages are surprised by our little Puma’s!
 
Love the signing over part :grin:

Here anyone could take your car in for you provided it still had some MOT and was insured for them to drive.
 
So, a little update. All of you who have upgraded brakes to ST150 standard (280 mm rotors at front, and rear discs at 253 mm) know that servo-master brake cylinder is struggling to keep up with that. It brakes fine until you start increasing pressure on pedal as soon the master brake cylinder maxes out and you feel that you are actually flexing the carrier and where it is attached to.
Had a good look at options. The first option was rather logycal: ST150 servo-MBC combo. If it works in fiesta ST150 with the these brakes, it should work in puma as well.
And got myself one
P6jQ0gr.jpg

Note how the brake fluid tank looks. Tried it, it won't clear the bonnet. Also, it uses two wire system for low fluid warning. The circuit is open when the bottle is empty, as opposed to puma system which is open when the bottle is full (meaning it activates the warning light directly; when the fulid level is low it turns on the warning light; ST150 just sends continuity signal and the PCM is activating the warning light). Also, puma has 3 wires as the handbrake activation is also trigerring the red warning light on instrument cluster. These things can be overcome, but the first problem remains.

How about using the puma bottle?
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It fits on MBC no problem, until you try attaching it to the servo

fVPp3wW.jpg


Sadly, it won't clear the servo because of the shape. The ST150 MBC is much shorter.

So had some investigation and got me a golf MkV bottle as it looked promising and is Ate as well (Ate made servo and MBC for puma and fiesta ST150).

Got the bottle and it would clear the servo, but could not attach it to the MBC.

HsDOSp1.jpg


So that ruled out ST150 servo-MBC combo.

Erroll (pumanoob) uses Mk3 mondeo servo-MBC combo so contacted him and he confirmed that. Ordered one on eBay and soon it arrived. It was from mondeo 1.8 model.

Started dismantling everything

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And then I realised the difference between LHD (my version) and RHD (UK version) in regards to the braking system. My car has direct activation of servo by a shaft going direct from the pedal and you guys have a crossbar so the rear attachment on brake servo is different.

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And the RHD mondeo version

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Got a LHD mondeo servo (2.0 TDCI version) form Germany and gave it a refreshment

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First trial fit to confirm it clears everything

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It clears the ABS just

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(a really close shave there!)
 
First bonnet closure test

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Made a cone out of paper and closed the bonnet to check for the clearance

And this was the result, so plenty of space over the brake fluid tank

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This was the test ST150 MBC failed big time.

Also, worth pointing out that mondeo uses the same 3 wire system as puma does for lighting up the warning light on instrument cluster. The connector is different, but it is not a problem. Mine servo came without the connector, Mk1 focus fits as well. I got mine at scrapy from a Mk1 focus.

After that it was just a case of bolting everything together. Puma MBC has outlets facing to the centre of the vehicle, mondeo has on opposite side, facing the battery. Luck has it the outlets are angled up so it clears the battery, but just.

Got myself a pair of brakelines at a local hydraulic shop. You will need length of 50 cm. The both sides need M12x1 connection; on MBC and ABS module all the connections use this thread. Started bending them and got to stage where I could bolt it all together.

The first attempt had the first line going beneath the second one.
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Tried it with battery in place and was not happy with the outcome

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If left like this, battery could not go out unless the brake lines are disconnected and that was not something I could do and live with myselft later.

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So bent line a bit different and could clear the battery at taking out. That was something, progress!

With that success got a bit greedy (the car has to be dismanteable as a stock one!) and tried to lift out the battery container as well. It would not go because of this corner.

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Also, the container was touching the master brake cylinder and that was also something I could not accept. During drive everythign vibrates and this contact is just asking for trouble.

So took out the old trusty heatgun and started heating that corner and deforming it to a shape needed

Jeg8aWj.jpg


It needed only few mm.

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That cleared the MBC and with the elastic strap holding the airfilter box detached I can now take out the battery container as well. The inlet hose moves a bit and that few extra mm of movement is enough for battery container to clear the brake line.

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With that settled, started putting everything together, but routed the front line differently, over the second one.

The only thing left to do was to connect the wires. I cut the original connector and soldered the mondeo one.

This is how the wires should be connected, should anyone need that info.

OVHAIYV.jpg


The red-black should be joined with the redblack from original, yellow goes to blue on original, and the blue-black from mondeo goes to the black on original.

Soldering, and heatshrinking

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And using that fancy Tesa tape (the cloth type for keping them together) for car instalations

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Making it look neat and tidy

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After that, the usual job of bleeding the brakes all around and replacing the brake fluid at the same time

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Like rallyesque look of puma on stands (the whole installation)!

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After that went for a spin. These are the findings: the stopping power is immense. Now I can at 100 kph start braking and increasing the pedal pressure to a point ABS kicks in. Previously that was not so easy. I had to hit the brakes to activate ABS. This servo and MBC are just what these brakes need to perform to their full potential.
But there is a problem. The shaft of mondeo servo is a bit longer then on puma. Tried to counteract that by placing some spacers and move the servo away a bit from the pedal assembly.

Md2B2PH.jpg


(The left arrow points to a desintagrated foam that served as water barrier; put some dynamat over it as it will keep the water away).

This was trial fit with 4 spacers and in the end went with two only. Tomorrow will try to put all four of them. I discovered that with this setup brakes are always applied a bit; I have to lift the pedal by foot to release them and then it is only just.
Also, I think I have a bit of drag in master brake cylinder. The original lines coming from MBC to ABS moduel were 6 mm, and now I have put on 5 mm as that was what that shop did. I guess that is a restriction preventing the master brake cylinder to release fast?
Barry, you are a good DIY-er and have built a westy; is my reckoning correct?
Anyway, I will replace the lines and if that and adding two spacers doesn't release brakes completely when I am not braking, I will use the UK version and have a shaft mashined to a measure and build into it some length adjustment.
I haven't seen that there is any sort of pedal adjustment possible, but stand to be corrected. Is there any adjustment of brake pedal possible?

That is all; since you don't have this shaft problem as you can combine various bits and pieces I would recommend upgrading the servo and master brake cylinder with big brake setup. It is a next level, like dropping an anchor!
 
Glad to report that replacing the brake lines with the ones in original size (being 6 mm OD) made brakes behave as tehy should. They are more reponsive and much faster at releasing!

qm1PhGS.jpg


Nothing new here to be seen from this angle.

But this one reveals a change

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A bit overdid it with plastic ties, but that plastic T holder broke on me so trying to hold the cables in their position like this...

pXMc88p.jpg


I admit, not a very nice sight, but I am a strong believer in taking unnecesary strain of electric cables equals longeivity and reliability....

Ok, still need to shorten the rod coming from pedal to the brake servo, but getting there! The brakes are fabulous now :thumbs:
 
Just finished working on the car and am glad to report it is all working as it should now. The rod from servo was a bit to long. reverted to the RHD version of a servo which has that connecting point (can be seen above in previous posts).
Took one LHD servo just lying around and cut the rod off and had it machined to my spec. Also had the connecting part made and threw in M10 thread for the good measure to enable adjustability.

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And assembled

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And compared to the old unit

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Of course, being as stupid as I am, shortened it to the max and assembled everything including bleeding the system. Started her up and only then realised what an idiot I have been! Haven't checked the pedal travel and the brakelights switch. Needless to say, the pedal was to low and the brakelights on all the time.
With system already bled, I was so dissapointed that left it just like that for the whole week until found enough determination and motivation to disassemble everything again, catch the brake fluid (really nasty stuff destroying the paint) and legthen the rod until got to the desired and needed length.

Anyway, just bled the system and it is now working as it should. The brake release is without hesitating, no drag, just awesome braking power to be enjoyed!

AegRVTh.jpg


And just to prove the connector was soldiered correctly: with hand brake applied the light is on

oPTWTe4.jpg


With your cars I guess the swap is much easier affair but I suspect the length of that pedal rod might not be OK in combination with mondeo servo.
Anyway, I would recommend this to anyone who has improved his brakes as the original servo-master brake cylinder is really marginal. I don't know how it copes with the braking system of FRP, to be honest...?
 
Cheers, Red, even more with today's achievement!

Solved the VSS problem. As you know, IB5 has VSS that sends signal to instrument cluster. The B6 gearbox from fiesta St180 has none. So had to get speed signal somehow. After deep investigation found out solution. And today succesfully tested it.

t7RQ5NM.jpg


Took out the signal of ABS sensor from Honda. Why Honda? It has single jacking point at front which enables to lift it up easily and it's ABS sensor connector is located in engine bay so easy to access.

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Puma has connectors hidden in wings, a real PIAS to get to. So highjacked the signal out of Honda. It uses same type of sensors (inductive type, sending out a sine voltage) so it is the same thing. Jacked the front end up, started her up and put in second gear to start wheels spinning to get a signal.

Now gets interesting. Opel (Vauxhall) had designed corsa C to be equipped with ABS for all versions. So no provision for VSS on that car. But when started production in Brasil, market demanded cheaper version, without ABS. So they developed operational ampifier that conditions the sine signal from ABS sensor (that corsa had ABS, i.e. wheel speed sensor on just one front wheel) and turns it to 12V square signal needed for the instrument cluster. Got myself one of this units (marketed on eBay as relays, although it is not a relay) and connected it.

PMWSoRd.jpg



After that the signal is conditioned using the Dakota unit. Dakota itself is capable of processing the sine signal, but it needs higher input voltage (around 0,5 V AC) to detect it and therefore would speedo react only at speeds above 20 kph. The GM unit reacts sooner.
Dakota outputs 5V square signal so had to pull it up to 12V by 1 kOhm resistor.

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And after that....

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With factoring the signal by 4. The car is in my driveway, not moving at all, engine is off, yet doing 230 kph :grin:

With conditioning the signal by factor of 0,25 it si doing 30...

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Since the GM unit has very big input resistance of almost 1MOhm, splicing the signal from one ABS sensor should not affect the operation of ABS unit. Anyway, if it affects, I will just add another ABS sensor to one rear wheel and that is it. So, the speed singalling problem with B6 gearbox is solved.

A very succesful Saturday! :thumbs:
 
Bravo Wild.E, fantastic work researching and developing a solution. It must have taken a fair bit of time to find out about the Corsa in Brazil.

Keep it up :eek:k:
 
Today was marvelous day and just had to make use of the warm weather!

The safety belts in my car got stiff and would not wind in properly. Also, left mark on seat that proves how dirty they are (were)!

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First cleaned the seat with some microfibre cloth soaked only at one end in bucket of warm soapy water.

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And sure enough, dirt starting coming off righ away, as marking on the cloth proves.

The seat was looking better after just few rubs.

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So took the opportunitiy as the weather was so nice to clean the belts and the car as well. Got myself two buckets of warm water and put some washing detergent in one (might be Arial, not sure, got it from home laundry while the better half was away :wink: )

Took two clips (the IKEA type, soft plastic, mostly used for clamping food bags). With one secured the belt which was pulled out entirely and prevented it from gong back in.

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With saftey belt all the way out, put it in the bucket of warm water with detergent dissolved in it and let it soak for ten minutes or so...

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Now took the other clip and sqeezed it over the safety belt and started pulling the belt through.

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Dirt started coming off right away!

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Repeated 5-6 times and let it soak again for few minutes. And repeated again 5-6 times. Now took the other bucket with clean water and put it in.

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Pulled through clip but only once-twice as now there is no detergent to lubricate it and did not want to risk damaging the safety belt. The water was clear so the belt is as clean as it can get.

Used doors (exactly the right length!) to strech it for drying in the sun.

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When it was dry (left it for an hour or so in the sun and wind) took the teflon spray for lubricating. Have a can of tunap 904 which is excellent. Lubricates the belt so it goes smoothly, but doesn't make it greasy!

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And this is how the seat looks after proper drying.

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Puma also got new windscreen aerowipers as autumn is here.

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And the car in general, as it is ATM

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Your work always leaves me in awe Sinisa. Just amazing!!
 
Hi all,

Nothing done to the car, but had a good test drive on a curvy and hilly road. The main thing is pictured here, to the right, big black thingy....

AegRVTh.jpg


The brakes are marvelous now. Exactly how they should be with the big disc setup (i.e. ST150 280 mm front, and Mk1 focus 253 mm at back). The pedal is firm and responsive, the effort to activate them is spot on and should you feel the need to brake harder whilst braking already, there is always enough of assistance from servo and enough of pressure in master brake cylinder which does not max out as the original one.
I am really curious how FRP brakes operate with twin piston setup at front and stock MBC? IMHO the mondeo Mk3 servo-MBC upgrade is the way to go after you have upgraded the brakes on puma.
Really, really pleased with the outcome of this operation. The car is, brakewise, ready to accept the more powerful engine :wink:
 
Nice one, I've been looking at doing this myself. Were the mk3 bolt holes for the servo the same as the pumas?
So other than the wiring for the plug and the brake lines it should be a straight swap?

I've noticed the newer MK4 master cylinder is cheaper to buy and the connections for the brake lines are in the same place as the puma's, but the reservoir will need swapping. Which could give same problems as the st150 part.
 
st220kyle said:
Nice one, I've been looking at doing this myself. Were the mk3 bolt holes for the servo the same as the pumas?
So other than the wiring for the plug and the brake lines it should be a straight swap?

Exactly. The servo is bolt on job really. You will find out that the pedal sits a bit lower though so some spacers will be needed or trying to get the rod from mondeo as well.
 

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