HOW TO:- Rear Wheel Bearing Change

Fab guide!! but as usual, "gently prise the abs ring off" wasn't quite as simple as it sounds!!

Mine was held on with 15 years worth of heat, dust and grime, but managed to get it off by turning the drum over and using a hammer on a screwdriver from the reverse side to gently tap it off from inside using the old washer as a cushion...

just in case anyone elses was as stubborn as mine!!

When attempting to remove the ABS sensor ring use a small block of wood to use as a fulcrum close to the tip of your screwdriver. This enables the levering action of the screwdriver tip be more in line with the direction of required travel and also provides more control. I was looking to uses a socket as a fulcrum but couldn't find the right height then thought of cutting a small piece of hardwood. Until then it seemed like the sensor would have to be destroyed to remove it but using the wood block enabled it to come off without damage and was able to be re-used.
Big thanks to Yipeekiay for producing such a clear guide. It reminded me of how Haynes manuals used to be (when they also included exploded view diagrams and instructions to make your own specialist tools).

Van_Dammesque said:

[post]281032[/post] I maybe totally wrong and would normally watch how the bearing and parts come out and note the order, but I have seen some so mangled it is hard to tell!

So to preempt any last minute panic is the below picture the correct order for the assembly?

Click to expand...

hi i have been looking at mine today and the washer faceing left in the diagram goes as far left as possible then abs ring please correct me if im wrong as i havent done these before

:roll:

Jason

In short, yes.....

It's a very long time since I did this guide but my thoughts looking at it quickly (which I never mentioned or realised originally after that picture was posted) is the "washer" Facing "Left" in the picture is on the wrong side so should be far left in the picture i.e. left of bearing (1) but facing the other way then the ABS ring sits over the lot. My crappy memory is pretty sure the nut & retaining washer is directly in contact with the outer bearing (2) so NO washer between as shown in the picture.

I hope I'm right, I just looked through my original pictures and think that's right but I do remember missing out some pictures lol.

Best advice, if your bearings were working ok, and are now broken. Remove each piece and set them down in order, then simply put the new ones back in reverse order. I suspect you already have as you picked up the washer being in incorrect place in picture. ;o)

hi quike note to all doing rear wheel bearings i have found the easyest way of removing the abs ring is to take drum off pull loose bearing ring out then get a 27mm socket against inner bearings and hit with a malet then the abs ring the seal ring and bearings come out all together with no damage to anything hope this helps you all allso when i done mine my torque wrench only goes up to 210 but nut had started to crush before i got to it so leaving it like that as i know the crushnut would have colapsed


Jason

:thumbs: k:

So i have an issue. After doing guide thoroughly as it states here, i ended up with both rear wheels overheating. (one side blew up 100km ago as i think i havent had the inner metal bearing piece sitting alæ the way on the spindel. Led to warming nut washer inwards into the bearing metal part which sits on a spindle.


Now hot new spindel and all other parts and seems wheels arw overheating which means bearing is not completely in.... We did eveeything. Everythibg is plsced correctly, parts are per catalogue for Puma (even though they are pain in the ass to find parts for) and that outer smaller metal bearibg psrt is still not all the esy o. The spindel. So thrustrating.

What we did was tightening the nut with long braker bar to try to push the bearibg part as far on a spindel as possible. Keep in mind my inner bearings are sitting tight and even sound after hammering with 32 i think size nut gone from zinki to more dull which ment and visually looked as far as it can get.


I did torwue it to 210 though. I presume if i go 235nm it will sandwitch the remaining slack of a bearing races in fully?

Did you use a decent quality wheel bearing kit, or a cheap one?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373096027109

Did you pack the bearing with grease? :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mubgjGXyntg

The multi-layered washer-nut must be torqued to 235 Nm to correctly pre-load the bearings. BUT, if the wheel nut is one-piece (in the case of an SKF bearing), it is torqued to 110 Nm, then 60 degrees:
https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/images/products/pdf/TB_NUT_REPLACEMENT_EN_1217.PDF

My bearing woes were fixed with the axle hub being replaced, have them checked too.