The Arch Bishop
Active member
I take no responsibility for any injury or damage caused by the following of this guide. It has been written by an amateur home mechanic and may contain omissions and mistakes. I recommend that you have a copy of the Ford Fiesta 1995-2002 Haynes manual for reference as the layout and procedures are very similar to those used on the Puma.
This guide covers removing, stripping down, rebuilding and refitting the rear shock-absorbers, springs and top mounts. The springs that I used in this guide are Eibach 30mm drop springs which were a dealer-fit option and are very close to the original Ford items. The shock-absorbers are KYB gas struts. The top mounts are also KYB and are sold as ‘mounting kits’ to complement their shocks.
The first section covers removing the boot lining to gain access to the strut top mounting nut. Before stripping out the boot, peel back the trim to look at where the mounting nut is. I have been told that later Puma’s have a different build in the back that may allow the removal of the top nut without stripping out the boot. The car shown in this guide is an early ’97 model. It may be possible to remove the nut without stripping the boot if you are really determined, but for the time that it takes, it’s worth doing to make things easier later.
Stripping out the boot trim
Remove the parcel shelf (if it hasn’t already dropped into the boot by itself when you opened it) and climb in to the boot (really it’s easier).
Fold the rear seats down and prise of the plastic seat back catch trim on both sides.
Now remove the six plastic clips from the boot lock trim by inserting a thin flat edged screwdriver underneath the heads and gently prising them out.
Remove the boot lock trim.
Prise out the six plastic push-clips (three on each side) from the carpet side trim near where the seat-back catches are.
There may also be some yellow twist clips in the rear corner of the boot near the rear lights on both sides. Twist 90 degrees and carefully pull them out.
Pull the seat back remote release pulls from out of their brackets (one on each side).
Now remove the carpet side panels from each side. You will need to feed the remote seat release pulls through the hole on each one.
You should be greeted by this…
As you can see, there’s a large metal structure obstructing access to the top of the strut. This is the seatbelt and the back seat catch assembly.
Look underneath the plastic trim on top of the assembly for two screws. One is attached directly to the assembly…
…and one to the car body…
Using an 8mm spanner, remove them both.
Then there are three 13mm bolts to remove (be very careful not to drop these when you remove them as they will disappear into the deepest recesses of the body never to be seen again) …
One here…
...one here…
...and my personal fiddly favourite, in the depths here…
For this last one, I found getting my hand in behind the assembly worked quite well.
The assembly should now come away allowing you unhindered access to that strut top mounting nut.
While you’re in there, loosen the top nut off a little while the car is still on its wheels. The theory is that the weight of the car takes the strain off of the nut.
You will need a 15mm spanner (swan-necked is most convenient) and a set of mole-grips (or whatever else you can find to fit the top of the push rod) to stop the shock push-rod rotating while you loosen the nut. Loosen off a few turns.
This guide covers removing, stripping down, rebuilding and refitting the rear shock-absorbers, springs and top mounts. The springs that I used in this guide are Eibach 30mm drop springs which were a dealer-fit option and are very close to the original Ford items. The shock-absorbers are KYB gas struts. The top mounts are also KYB and are sold as ‘mounting kits’ to complement their shocks.
The first section covers removing the boot lining to gain access to the strut top mounting nut. Before stripping out the boot, peel back the trim to look at where the mounting nut is. I have been told that later Puma’s have a different build in the back that may allow the removal of the top nut without stripping out the boot. The car shown in this guide is an early ’97 model. It may be possible to remove the nut without stripping the boot if you are really determined, but for the time that it takes, it’s worth doing to make things easier later.
Stripping out the boot trim
Remove the parcel shelf (if it hasn’t already dropped into the boot by itself when you opened it) and climb in to the boot (really it’s easier).
Fold the rear seats down and prise of the plastic seat back catch trim on both sides.
Now remove the six plastic clips from the boot lock trim by inserting a thin flat edged screwdriver underneath the heads and gently prising them out.
Remove the boot lock trim.
Prise out the six plastic push-clips (three on each side) from the carpet side trim near where the seat-back catches are.
There may also be some yellow twist clips in the rear corner of the boot near the rear lights on both sides. Twist 90 degrees and carefully pull them out.
Pull the seat back remote release pulls from out of their brackets (one on each side).
Now remove the carpet side panels from each side. You will need to feed the remote seat release pulls through the hole on each one.
You should be greeted by this…
As you can see, there’s a large metal structure obstructing access to the top of the strut. This is the seatbelt and the back seat catch assembly.
Look underneath the plastic trim on top of the assembly for two screws. One is attached directly to the assembly…
…and one to the car body…
Using an 8mm spanner, remove them both.
Then there are three 13mm bolts to remove (be very careful not to drop these when you remove them as they will disappear into the deepest recesses of the body never to be seen again) …
One here…
...one here…
...and my personal fiddly favourite, in the depths here…
For this last one, I found getting my hand in behind the assembly worked quite well.
The assembly should now come away allowing you unhindered access to that strut top mounting nut.
While you’re in there, loosen the top nut off a little while the car is still on its wheels. The theory is that the weight of the car takes the strain off of the nut.
You will need a 15mm spanner (swan-necked is most convenient) and a set of mole-grips (or whatever else you can find to fit the top of the push rod) to stop the shock push-rod rotating while you loosen the nut. Loosen off a few turns.
