Search results

was the top cover seal. changed to an elring and used some Hylomar M as sealant around the cam parts. no leakage now. good fit of the seal

the rocker cover gasket in this kit is to short and didn't seal well. ordered an elring one see if thats better. the other seals for the vtc valve and cam sensor are fine thou.

puma gas struts should have a bit of slower lift in the last bit to avoid rain water to enter the boot.

both lenghts should be good https://www.projectpuma.com/threads/crank-pulley-bolt-lenght-not-matching.34426/ also make sure your mechanic have the correct guide. https://www.projectpuma.com/threads/how-to-change-cambelt-on-1-7l-125hp-engine.25102/

did another cam belt change on the puma the other day. and tried something new on the crank pulley bolt. first stage tightening is not that hard with a holding tool for the aux belt pulley. then just make a scratch mark in the bolt and pulley. take out the impact gun. set it low. and let that...

This is the sizes of the tool used for locking the crank. might give you a hint on how large plug you need.

or just change the plastic line to ordinary fuel line. my plastic lines did start to crackle and leak. reuse the quick couplings if they look ok.

you can bang out your own arches if you cut some wood with the right radial. check my project thread.

while checking for fuel leaks, take a look att the fuel lines in the engine department. mine where very brittle and where starting to leak. easy to replace with standard 8mm id fuel hose. you can even reuse the quick connectors to the fuel rail and return.

Guide https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=25102

check out my project. if you put a couple of 8" in the back on an amp you'll get plenty of bass. original plastic boxes i would avoid. tried with them but they just move around and sound shit. https://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?t=23772&start=50

I had fuel smell the other day. fuel line had a small crack in engine department. it had a hairline leak when fuel pump was running. check your fuel lines near the exhaust manifold. they get brittle and it's a bad place to get a broken line. I had to remove the spiral stuff on the tubes to...

just put a tarp over the engine and power wash it in place?

autodoc seem to have some front wings. expensive thou, and sills and some other parts.

Ah well. i grinded away all rusty metal in the affected sil and i'm now replacing it. trying fluss welding wire. (gassless) works quite well if you don't need super tidy welds.

i have jl audio in my car and they sound great! nice even frequency response. but you should really put some sound killer in the doors to have great sound. otherwise the reflected sound in the doors will play through the cones and sound doorish..

It was a while since i wrote something here so.. Had an accident with a dear a year ago so had to pull out the front beam to original position. Replace bumper. A tube for powersteering. A New headlight. It's sorted.also did a wheel angle adjustment to check frame. Still square. Also a some...

As you said the lights did get a small tint of yellow over time without protection. they still look alot better than before. but now i'm polishing them up again and this time they will have a coat of 2K. also added som leds(warm white) in the upper part of lights. think i need a switch for them..

it's not that hard to make them yourself. make 2 wooden pieces with same arching as on car and grind them down so the edge is a bit triangular. then cut cheat metal how you want it. put between wooden pieces. fixate. bang the steel around the wood. done!

got another version of switch. measured and tested with 12v for the diode light. got this pinout. 5 + Led + 4 - Led - 7 com common 3 nc normaly closed 2 no normally open