floorpan/ chassis rust proofing

[Stavros34]

Hi Guys

Need a bit of advice on the process/products to use when treating the underside of my puma. I have stripped the spare wheel, rear axle, fuel tank, exhaust and heatshields. Questions I have are what process/products to use on the painted sections (boot floor, above fuel tank and exhaust tunnel etc) and what process/products to use on the chassis/ floorpan in other areas that seems to be covered in a rough textured layer from factory.

There is some rust in all these area which I will treat first

Thanks for the advice in advance.

Steve

 

[dingwells1985]

Hi,there is a product on the market called rust bullet ive used this on the floor pan of my puma once the welding had been done it can be applied direct to the rusted area it needs a minimum of 2 coats but i have coated my puma with 3 coats once applied correctly it dehydrates the rust,time will tell if this works but its been given 2 patents in the usa.good luck.

 

[Stavros34]

That looks good for the rusty areas so will look into that or dinatrol which looks similar. What could I use for the non rusty sections? Rough the surface and paint/ stonechip?

 

[YOG]

You need to treat inside the cavities and sills as well;
http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=97645

 

[Stavros34]

Yep will do. The interior is fully stripped and ready for repairs and treatment too. It's gonna be a long process with only weekends to do it until the lighter evenings are back. The more I strip the more rust I find. Poor puma!

 

[Frank]

[post]347696[/post] Yep will do. The interior is fully stripped and ready for repairs and treatment too. It's gonna be a long process with only weekends to do it until the lighter evenings are back. The more I strip the more rust I find. Poor puma!

It's not too bad a job - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=345716#p345716

You will need to prep better than shown in your 1st pic though. See the bubbled edge to the left of your brake pipe? That needs stripping back as well. Just run a Stanley knife in a line about an inch away from the nearest bubbling, to avoid stripping more paint than you need to, and then use a scraper on areas like that. Get off any loose rust with a wire brush and then use that Vactan on it. That whacks the rust and primes the surface.

Best hold off on the Dinitrol underbody wax for the time being as the surface should be bone dry for that, or you'll trap moisture, and this time of year is not ideal for that. Doing the cavities, esp. the rear arches, is pretty important as well.

Still, done right, you only do this stuff once and then after that it's just a touchup inspection once a year, that takes 90 mins tops to do.

Hope that helps.

 

[Stavros34]

That help thanks. On that first photo - that is how I found it. I haven't done any prep , the brake hose bracket almost fell off undoing the brake pipe!. I'm welding before treating any surface corrosion then tackling as much as poss. Good point on waxing. It's too cold at the mo and the car is permanently outside. I'm just thinking ahead.

 

[TylerB]

Not sure where to put this. Over the holes inside the car under the carpet, where you can spray dinitrol/waxoyl/whatever in to thread the sills, there is standard some sort of foam tape over it to close them off. I wonder if this has a particular purpose?
I removed them to thread my sill cavities. I left them just open now, i guess that's just better for air circulation (and thus drying)
Just wondered if there is another reason why they are standard closed off or not.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Tyler
If you leave them open you will end up with wet carpets as water can get through from the drain holes underneath.
Barry

 

[TylerB]

[post]349413[/post] Hi Tyler
If you leave them open you will end up with wet carpets as water can get through from the drain holes underneath.
Barry

Oh damn. I already put the carpet back in :roll: I need to buy some of this tape then. Which did you use to close them off? Thanks Barry

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Tyler
I just used some sticky rubber tape that I already had in the garage but I suppose waterproof Gaffa tape would do the job.
Barry

 

[Frank]

[post]349407[/post] Not sure where to put this. Over the holes inside the car under the carpet, where you can spray dinitrol/waxoyl/whatever in to thread the sills, there is standard some sort of foam tape over it to close them off.

You can replace that with some flashing tape, very useful stuff. Pick it up at DIY stores, it looks like this - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bond--Flashing-Tape-100mm-3Metres/dp/B00B7M8K7A/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1459718020&sr=1-4&keywords=flashing+tape

 

[mihalyn90]

what the heck are those bags in the rear quarter? mine were stripped and found just foam in them... i throw them away...