ScubaSteve
Active member
- Joined
- May 8, 2010
- Messages
- 3,749
First off before you start this you want to make sure you know exactly what is involved before hand and have all tools and parts needed at the ready. Even though i researched across many different sites and guides beforehand I still tripped up in a couple of areas.
Also this guide is based on fitting a Quaife diff, which is made to exact Ford OEM measurements so is a direct fit, there may be more involved in fitting a different diff eg shimming etc.
Heres a list (based on my memory so dont blame me if i miss something out) of tools you need.
To remove box..
Tools
Jack - higher the lift capability the better
Axle stands
Blocks or bricks (or ideally another jack!)
Set of screwdrivers (large flat head helps)
13mm deep socket
13mm normal socket
32mm deep socket/hub nut socket (strongly advised but not essential)
Assortment of spanners ranging from 10mm-19mm
Assortment of sockets ranging from 10mm-19mm
T50 Torx bit
E8 Star Socket
Brake pipe crimp (some kind of locking plier or maulgrips will suffice)
Brake bleed kit - eg Eezi Bleed kit
Brake fluid, whatever DOT rating your car is currently using
Adjustable spanner
Crow Bar
Torque wrench capable of 265nm
Parts
Hubnut Ford p/n 6102936
2.8 litres 75w-90 Gearbox oil Ford Spec: WSD-M2C200-C - p/n 1045737 x3 = 3 litres
Gearbox Removal
If your wheel has a center cap pop it off and using a breaker bar and your 32mm deep socket
undo the nearside (passenger) hub nut only.
Jack car up as high as you can and support on stands
Support here
Remove wheels, and undo the loosened hub nut the rest of the way. Be sure to place the washer behind it somewhere safe.
Under car unplug Rad Fan connector and lever up the bottom plastic fan lugs until they pop
out, remove fan.
Use the torx bit and 17mm spanner on the ball joint pinch bolt, do this both sides of car.
Remove bolt
Use something to lever the ball joint out the hub
Nearside ONLY, remove the droplink bolt
also the tie rod end bolt, pull back carpet and unplug abs sensor from top of wheel arch, unplug abs sensor wire at the various points.
Remove nearside caliper by undoing carrier bolts at the back
Slide off caliper and tie up somewhere, not on the shock, spring or any of the hub assembley as this is all coming out.
Take the plastic cover off the nearside top mount in the engine bay. Undo the top mount nut.
Then whilst holding the whole lot up pull it away from the car so the drive shaft comes out the hub, you may need to tap driveshaft through.
Remove whole lot out the car and store somewhere
Use 10mm and 13mm sockets to remove battery and tray. Use flat head screw driver to remove air pipe and air box
Back under car use suitable spanner on the detent shown, make sure you have a oil catch container underneath
This will release MOST but not ALL oil.
Undo the nut on the linkage to selector and pull off (if stiff get in the car and push and wiggle the gearstick forwards until you feel it release off). Also undo nut on the adjacent stabaliser bar and tie both up out the way
Undo the two bolts holding the roll resistor/bottom dog bone mount, and pull out
Undo the two bolts on the offside (drivers side) driveshaft support bearing bracket, then remove.
on the offside driveshaft simply pull the drive shaft out and tie away from the gearbox, it
comes out quite easily as there is no shaft circlip on the end of this side.
On the nearside where you removed all the shock/hub etc, you need to get under the car and lever the shaft out completely, it will be stiff as its reatined by a circlip but using the crow bar with short sharp pulls it will come out, be careful with the oil seals though
remove that driveshaft completely.
On the same side, undo the rear front bush bolt and remove the bracket under the box
Back in engine bay, remove the black plastic breather plug, just pull it out
Back in engine bay unplug the reverse switch at the front of the box, and the speedo sender near the back of the box, they are simple electrical push connectors.
Now i also advise to remove the reverse switch at the front of the box incase you snap it getting the box out, just use the adjustable spanner on the spanner part
Reverse switch is just up and left of the spanner here
Now crimp the hydraulic line at the rubber part that goes the slave cylinder
use a screwdriver on the clip where it goes into box and remove clip. Then pull out the line from the box and tie up somewhere
Now support the gearbox with jack.
Undo the 3 bolts on the gearbox top mount
And the two on the bracket
Then use the E8 star socket to remove the threaded bars that the bolts went onto.
Now lower the box/engine using the jack until the end of it clears the subframe etc.
Support the engine with blocks/bricks/another jack.
Now you need to go round the bellhousing and remove all the 13mm bolts.
there are a grand total of 12, most of the bottom ones go in from engine side and most oftop go in from gearbox side.
Remember which went where and also remember which held on things like the earth cable etc.
Wiggle the box and lower slowly on the jack under the box until its out
To refit you will need an extra pair of hands to guide box back in.
Is basically a reverse of refit but some advice.
Tip any left over oil in the box out through one of the driveshafts.
Put a small amount of copper grease on the input splines to stop it rusting to the clutch.
To get back in use a jack and ease into place slowly, when in position get some bolts in and tighten to get it to engage
When everything is together bleed the slave cylinder by opening the bleed valve next to the
input line.
Use 8mm allen key socket to remove the fill plug at front of gearbox
Refill with 2.8 litres of fluid, i made a device like this
Torque settings to follow are
Bell housing bolts - 44nm
Rear front bush bolt - 82nm
Ball joint pinch bolt - 52nm
Hub nut - 265nm
Also this guide is based on fitting a Quaife diff, which is made to exact Ford OEM measurements so is a direct fit, there may be more involved in fitting a different diff eg shimming etc.
Heres a list (based on my memory so dont blame me if i miss something out) of tools you need.
To remove box..
Tools
Jack - higher the lift capability the better
Axle stands
Blocks or bricks (or ideally another jack!)
Set of screwdrivers (large flat head helps)
13mm deep socket
13mm normal socket
32mm deep socket/hub nut socket (strongly advised but not essential)
Assortment of spanners ranging from 10mm-19mm
Assortment of sockets ranging from 10mm-19mm
T50 Torx bit
E8 Star Socket
Brake pipe crimp (some kind of locking plier or maulgrips will suffice)
Brake bleed kit - eg Eezi Bleed kit
Brake fluid, whatever DOT rating your car is currently using
Adjustable spanner
Crow Bar
Torque wrench capable of 265nm
Parts
Hubnut Ford p/n 6102936
2.8 litres 75w-90 Gearbox oil Ford Spec: WSD-M2C200-C - p/n 1045737 x3 = 3 litres
Gearbox Removal
If your wheel has a center cap pop it off and using a breaker bar and your 32mm deep socket
undo the nearside (passenger) hub nut only.
Jack car up as high as you can and support on stands
Support here
Remove wheels, and undo the loosened hub nut the rest of the way. Be sure to place the washer behind it somewhere safe.
Under car unplug Rad Fan connector and lever up the bottom plastic fan lugs until they pop
out, remove fan.
Use the torx bit and 17mm spanner on the ball joint pinch bolt, do this both sides of car.
Remove bolt
Use something to lever the ball joint out the hub
Nearside ONLY, remove the droplink bolt
also the tie rod end bolt, pull back carpet and unplug abs sensor from top of wheel arch, unplug abs sensor wire at the various points.
Remove nearside caliper by undoing carrier bolts at the back
Slide off caliper and tie up somewhere, not on the shock, spring or any of the hub assembley as this is all coming out.
Take the plastic cover off the nearside top mount in the engine bay. Undo the top mount nut.
Then whilst holding the whole lot up pull it away from the car so the drive shaft comes out the hub, you may need to tap driveshaft through.
Remove whole lot out the car and store somewhere
Use 10mm and 13mm sockets to remove battery and tray. Use flat head screw driver to remove air pipe and air box
Back under car use suitable spanner on the detent shown, make sure you have a oil catch container underneath
This will release MOST but not ALL oil.
Undo the nut on the linkage to selector and pull off (if stiff get in the car and push and wiggle the gearstick forwards until you feel it release off). Also undo nut on the adjacent stabaliser bar and tie both up out the way
Undo the two bolts holding the roll resistor/bottom dog bone mount, and pull out
Undo the two bolts on the offside (drivers side) driveshaft support bearing bracket, then remove.
on the offside driveshaft simply pull the drive shaft out and tie away from the gearbox, it
comes out quite easily as there is no shaft circlip on the end of this side.
On the nearside where you removed all the shock/hub etc, you need to get under the car and lever the shaft out completely, it will be stiff as its reatined by a circlip but using the crow bar with short sharp pulls it will come out, be careful with the oil seals though
remove that driveshaft completely.
On the same side, undo the rear front bush bolt and remove the bracket under the box
Back in engine bay, remove the black plastic breather plug, just pull it out
Back in engine bay unplug the reverse switch at the front of the box, and the speedo sender near the back of the box, they are simple electrical push connectors.
Now i also advise to remove the reverse switch at the front of the box incase you snap it getting the box out, just use the adjustable spanner on the spanner part
Reverse switch is just up and left of the spanner here
Now crimp the hydraulic line at the rubber part that goes the slave cylinder
use a screwdriver on the clip where it goes into box and remove clip. Then pull out the line from the box and tie up somewhere
Now support the gearbox with jack.
Undo the 3 bolts on the gearbox top mount
And the two on the bracket
Then use the E8 star socket to remove the threaded bars that the bolts went onto.
Now lower the box/engine using the jack until the end of it clears the subframe etc.
Support the engine with blocks/bricks/another jack.
Now you need to go round the bellhousing and remove all the 13mm bolts.
there are a grand total of 12, most of the bottom ones go in from engine side and most oftop go in from gearbox side.
Remember which went where and also remember which held on things like the earth cable etc.
Wiggle the box and lower slowly on the jack under the box until its out
To refit you will need an extra pair of hands to guide box back in.
Is basically a reverse of refit but some advice.
Tip any left over oil in the box out through one of the driveshafts.
Put a small amount of copper grease on the input splines to stop it rusting to the clutch.
To get back in use a jack and ease into place slowly, when in position get some bolts in and tighten to get it to engage
When everything is together bleed the slave cylinder by opening the bleed valve next to the
input line.
Use 8mm allen key socket to remove the fill plug at front of gearbox
Refill with 2.8 litres of fluid, i made a device like this
Torque settings to follow are
Bell housing bolts - 44nm
Rear front bush bolt - 82nm
Ball joint pinch bolt - 52nm
Hub nut - 265nm