Mk1 Focus RS powered Puma, now going RWD, JWRC

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Sorry, WOT is wide open throttle. Thats when it would be more likely to breathe heavy.

Id pretty much rule out HG too then, if its been doing it for a while, and not deteriorated, its not likely. The only other think is plumbing then. So you say there is a "Y" pipe comming from the header tank, does one go to the engine where the thermostat is, and the other go to the rad? If so then thats correct, the FRS is set up that way from factory.

Any chance you could do a diagram of how everything is plumbed in?? Including HCV and turbo coolant?
 
This car is the tits, you have also awnsered my question of what cossies look like on a puma :)
 
Flying Scotsman said:
This is more a focus in a puma.... lol, Think warren might have your cossie answer.

It's focus inside, puma outside, always wondered what cossies looked like, and who is Warren?
 
Lol, theres only 1 cossie puma on here, the 4wd monster!! The focus RS isnt a cosworth. The cosworth did the YB engine and theyve done a version of the duratec engine (not in any production cars).
 
I'll try get a diagram of how it's plumbed..

In the mean time, on with my next prob!

Struggling with the standard FRS water to oil cooler. If I keep booting it oil rises to 110 degrees C easily. After speaking to a few people in motorsport it seems that ideal oil temps are around 80-90, baring in mind that most if not all off the shelf oil cool take off plates fitted with a thermostat are set at 80 degrees C.

Obviously the viscosity of the oil plays some part in the ideal temp. 5W-30 is a thin oil though, so for pressure I've heard that 10psi of pressure for each 1000rpm is a rough guideline. Although I think I'd like to see higher.

So my question is how do I choose the right cooler? and where to place it? I don't really want to stick it in front of my intercooler as it's working so well.. I've read that if you have a thermostat, fit the biggest cooler you can?

I have some space at the top of the rad behind intercooler but unsure as to how effective this will be?

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Unfortunately don't have a pic showing setup from the front. I could fit one at the top of the intercooler behind front grille.

And no one has guessed what colour the car is going...? ;)
 
Here is my really bad drawing - it makes good sense to me :)

This is how it's plumbed:

EngineCoolant.jpg


There's a few pipes crossing over by the thermostat housing that may need explaining. The turbo take off is from an aluminium sandwich block in between the head and thermostat housing. This then has a 16mm take off to bypass the rad which the turbo joins back into.

Maybe if my car is at 85 degrees when moving and booting it, the thermostat will only just be opening. Maybe the oil cooler on the bypass round the front is causing too much strain and pressure build up at higher rpm. The oil cooler is usually plumbed in round the back. Basically the same thing? Anyway the oil cooler will more than likely be coming off to go to an air one due to the other problem in the previous post!

Thanks!
 
Here is my oil cooler, its behind the upper front grill, so its nowhere near my intercooler (ignore the red circle at the back, i took this pic for someone else wanting to know where the fuel vapour valve is), not sure how tall your intercooler is though.
FuelVapour.jpg

Its not going to be as efficient if you put it behind the rad or intercooler because the air will already be warmed up a little after passing the rad or intercooler. Im looking into an oil cooer thermostat myself, as you say, theres no worry of overcooling the oil if there is a stat fitted, so bigger is better. Im not sure if there is an equation as to oil cooler size and design to get to the exact temps you need, there are far too many variables, core design, oil temp going into the cooler, position of cooler, and outside air temp.

Looking at your cooling system drawing, its possible you may have too much water bypassing the rad. The turbo will be dramatically heating the water up, and its going straight back into your engine via the oil cooler, theres hot water going via the heater straight back into the engine, and theres a feed that carries the water past the thermostat that comes straight from the head back to your water pump. Thats normal, but what size are the pipes carrying it? If they are quite big, then it might be worth putting a restrictor in the pipe before the oil cooler to stop so much water going through it. The water pump in the engine will pull the same amount of water into the block, but will pull more through the rad. Also are you missing a pipe from your header tank, there should be at least 1 more pipe like a small breather going to the head?

My set up has 2 small diameter popes, minimum is about 15mm inside diameter going from the head, one straight around to the thermostat so it gets an accurate idea of water temp comming straight from the engine to prevent over cooling. Then the other pipe goes from the head, to the turbo, from the turbo to in car heater (so the heater gets hot almost instantly), then from the heater back to the water inlet on the block. So the only hot water feeds the engine is getting is 2 15mm tubes. The main feed from the rad is about 40mm inside diameter, and theres just a small 15mm feed from the header, which isnt too hot anyway. When the water pump sucks water in, its pulling more from the rad then anywhere else.

Another option for you is to blank off the "T" that goes from your HCV to the header tank pipe, and re route it. Go from the head, into the turbo as you have done, then out the turbo into the HCV, then from the HCV to the pipe that goes into your oil cooler. That will potentially have better cooling on your oil when you have the heater on because the heat exchanger will release some heat into the car.

Just a few options there that you might be able to pick something from!
 
Thanks for the reply bud - but you have me confused...

I have eliminated 2 expansion pipes from the drawing - 1 comes from the thermostat housing and 1 from the top corner of the rad, both of which go the header tank.

The bypass pipes are all 16mm diameter. The oil cooler has a smaller inlet and outlet of about 12mm.

Turbo pipes are 8mm, so they can't feed the HCV?

If it helps, the way it is plumbed is as near as dammit the same as a standard FRS...

As I said before the only difference is the oil cooler is round the front. The pipe sizes are the same also. The only other difference I can think of is that the header tank feed into the system is plumbed in slightly short of where it normally is on a focus.

The turbo is a separate feed from the head - it just returns into the bypass pipe that goes through my oil cooler and back into the engine.

Also, the water pump can't pull water through the rad when the thermostat is closed (although there is a tiny let through in the thermostat) If I run temps of 85, the thermostat will only be partially open.
My intercooler runs top to bottom so an oil cooler would have to sit in front of it in the same place you have yours.
 
Hmm, well if your set up is almost identical to the FRS, and your pipes are the right size, im all out of ideas!! The turbo pipes can feed the HCV even though they are smaller, but in this case, i dont think its going to help your issue. If the header is boiling over, then perhaps the FRS rad cap just isnt compatible with the puma bottle. I was looking the other day at using a mondeo duratec rad cap on mine (it was nice and shiny). It fitted on, but the puma one wouldnt fit on the mondeo header tank, so that may be your issue.

I thought your engine was overheating on full throttle, but reading it again, i see its just the water pressure thats the issue, so changine pipe diameters wouldnt have made any difference anyway!

What colour are you doing your car then?? ST2 Orange?? I think it would look good, but i dont have you down as an Orange kinda guy, your more stealthy, so id put my money on a darker colour, maybe imperial or performance blue??
 
Thanks for your help mate.. I might try a cosworth cap. That screws on as I've tried swapping it with a mate. I might even go back to a puma cap.. When that was blowing off it was because my cooling was really bad!

Still, better off blowing the cap that the HG.

As for colour, you're on the right lines of darker! But darker than imperial blue ;)
 
Here's the few photos my mate will send me, and only one in colour as he said the photos he's taken just don't do it justice!

First of it in primer after filling and rubbing back etc. etc.:

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Then the whole car rubbed back and masked up::

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Then, all painted and and roof flattened back & polished:

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:D Very pleased
 
Been a long time and some of you may have seen the car at Ford fair/Trax, but that aside, the paintwork did get finished, albeit a couple of touch ups are needed.

So pics of how it turned out:

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Don't have a pic of my manifold ceramic coated, I lost it somehow - you just see it in one of the above pics

Recently hit a nasty pothole:

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Then after that, gearbox has failed again, this time not just 5th gear (which is a separate housing on the IB5 box, so didn't cause an issue - just cleaned and put a new one on)

So onwards and upwards.. Just bought an FRS box :) although not arrived yet. Now need to source, driveshafts, gearstick, possibly starter. Need a brand new flywheel the correct size for the box and a clutch! Expensive!

And I need to move my oil cooler..

Then after all this, plans to get different wheels with road legal slicks as sadly they wont fit on the cosworth wheels :( the tyre hits the rear of the front arch when turning.
 
Oh yes, and the colour is Ford aubergine, as found on the escort cosworths :D

P.s. that's not my foot in the pothole :lol: (my gf's)
 
We are in the same boat now, I was at shakespear raceway today, and my gearbox gave up the ghost!! I'd already set things in motion to get parts for the new box, but car spent more time on a recovery truck! I'm stuck between 1st and 2nd gear, but the car won't drive. I have a complete new gearset for the box in my garage, but its not worth it, I just need to go with an MTX75 and custom driveshafts now, probably hybrid.




T


he colour is proper
nice, quite unusual. Do you know the average price FRS gearboxes go for?
 
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