Puma Rear Section Rustproofing

[Vivmeister]

Hi!

I have just purchased a Puma 'Black' and its a rare beast as it appears to be good original metal under the rear wheel arches and behind the wheel arch 'carpets'

Question is: Are there places that can strip the rear section and spray on some rustproofing? Does a rustproofing solution even exist?

Cheers

 

[The Arch Bishop]

Hi,

I'm doing mine at the moment. You need to strip out the rear interior trim and the rear speaker boxes to get to the inside of the wheel arches. This also allows you access to the rear of the sills as well.

Starts on this page - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=10548&start=500

 

[YOG]

Lots of info on both sites. Have a read of my thread on PumaPeople:
http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=97645&hl=%20rust%20%20proofing&st=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I used Bilt-Hamber products. as have a lot of people:
http://www.bilthamber.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[Vivmeister]

Cheers guys, will give them a look at!

 

[Vivmeister]

Wanna do mine for me? :lol:

 

[The Arch Bishop]

Errrrrmmm....nah..... :lol:

It's not too bad to be honest. Most of the time is taken up removing the rear trim and sanding down the surface rust.

As YOG says, the Bilt-Hamber stuff is very good indeed!

 

[Vivmeister]

Is it tricky getting your hand into all the nooks and crannies with the sandpaper?

 

[The Arch Bishop]

Yes... and sharp! My hands are a bit sliced up! You don't need to go mad with it, it's to get any loose rust flakes off. I hoovered the dust out afterwards.

 

[Vivmeister]

OK Chaps,

I reckon i'm just about capable of removing the rear seats to spray that stuff into the gaps.

What's the shopping list I need to do that bit? What are all the different products you are using needed for?

I think im gonna have to pay someone to do the outside of the wheel arches as I'm not much of a mechanic....

 

[Vivmeister]

And I apologise for being a newbie annoying question asker.....

#NewbieWan£er lol

 

[The Arch Bishop]

The stuff I used was in my thread - Basically, Hydrate 80 as the rust stabiliser and Dynax for the protecting wax.

This may be of use to remove the rear trim (you can do it without removing the rear seats) - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?t=4110

 

[Vivmeister]

Cheers!! I'll get ordering some now!!

 

[evilrob]

And I apologise for being a newbie annoying question asker.....

#NewbieWan£er lol

We've all got time for anyone who wants to rustproof their Puma! :thumbs:

Luckily I don't need to get involved as it's all been said now. :lol:

 

[tuonokid]

Don't make the same mistake as me. Because my nearside wheelarch and sill were perfect I waxoiled the inside of the panels before I stripped it off underneath. The last 3 days I've been bare metalling the car off underneath with the drill/angle grinder /dremmel and I've had to have my son stood at the door with a CO2 extinguisher just in case sparks set the waxoil alight. That's also with the tank off and all the interior out. So take my advice and strip it all off underneath before you put potentially inflammable rustproofing on it.
Barry

 

[slayllian]

Mines smothered in waxoil and its almost impossible to alight with an angle grinder, it just gunks up the grinding disc!

 

[Kidders]

Don't forget to treat the folded edge of the wheelarch externally. I've always said rust starts through this seam and water between the sandwich of inner and outer panels, eventually bleeding through to the outside part that you see. I recently removed the rear bins on mine and applied some Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 wax, my arches are pretty good but you could see how the rust had formed despite the presence of original cavity wax, in fact Ford wasn't even skimpy, there was loads, but what they failed to do was apply a seam sealer on the external seam. A good clean up with a wire brush, rust neutraliser and then a chip resistant underseal like Dynax UB and it should hold it back. Obviously some arches are passed the point of saving.

 

[Vivmeister]

Right then!

Once I pick the car up and start getting the rear seats and stuff out I will post pics so you guys can judge how good (or bad) the rear arches are. Im gonna be buggered if they are past it. like I said on my original post, I pulled out the liner a bit and felt under the arch - It all still feels like the original folded edges. I won't really get to find out for sure until I get Kat home and get the wheels off!

Cheers for all your help so far - I will be asking for more in the future no doubt! :lol:

 

[tuonokid]

Good advice from Kidders!

 

[Vivmeister]

Well... here she is...

 

[tuonokid]

Hi
Hard to tell from the photos but looks clean. If you really want to preserve it the areas that were rusty on mine (2001 37.5K miles) were.... Drivers side rear arch, close to the bumper v slight bubbling cut out pitted metal and welded new in..... Drivers side chassis rail and under sill and front of rear inner arch adjacent to the rear beam mount cut out pitted metal and welded new in. Various driver and rear passenger floorpan to floorpan strengtheners rust along joints not done yet but at least two small patches to be cut out and welded in. Front wings, small patches needed cutting out on both wings underneath adjacent to where the two wing screws are as well as small patches just above the bottom of the wings on the arches (underneath the mudflaps if you have those fitted).
The good news is I have been fairly anal about this as I have done this and want to keep it at least 10 years without having to do it again and also the whole front structure of the car is very good and virtually rust free.
I hope this helps.
Barry