Hi all, I'm planning to replace my clutch with the Focus 1.8 version, already read the how to guide and Haynes on this subject. Being relatively new to working on my Ford, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what's best to replace as well: I'll be replacing slave cylinder, cover and plate. Are there any other parts which I should replace, when most parts are accessible having removed the gearbox? Thanks in advance, Matti.
Replacing clutch, help needed
- Thread starter Matti9
- Start date
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YOG
Well-known member
The Focus 1.8 clutch plate contact area is larger than the Puma, so you will probably need to reface the flywheel, to remove any wear ridge.
RoadWarrior
Member
You'll need to get a trolley jack and a block of wood to support the engine via the oil sump (No wood will result in a damaged oil sump). Your engine will be holding by one single mount when you remove your gearbox. I reccomend removing both drive shafts, oil will leak out the gearbox. The easiest way to do the job is to remove the gearbox entirely.
If the Puma is the only vehicle you have for transport, I reccomend having a close friend on stand by to give you lifts if you need parts. I also reccomend buying a new rear gearbox mount before even taking the gearbox out, as they're rubber and deteriorate over the years.
You'll need to remove the ball joint off the hub which has a TORQ bolt with a nut on the end. They often need cutting off with a grinder, so suggest getting two of them in stock. Also two new hub bolts for the driveshafts, as they're more or less one time use as they have little tabs to bend in when they're torqued up to spec. You need to remove this groove in order to undo the bolt. Best to undo the hub bolts whilst the car is on the floor, remove the wheel and take the centre cap out then put it back on to undo the bolt.
You'll need a flywheel locking tool and slim deep sockets. The clutch plate shouldn't be too tight, you'll also need a universal clutch alignment tool. Also as stated above get the flywheel lapped out, mine never had a mark on it when removed, it only usually has marks on when someone has left a slipping clutch on for too long.
If the Puma is the only vehicle you have for transport, I reccomend having a close friend on stand by to give you lifts if you need parts. I also reccomend buying a new rear gearbox mount before even taking the gearbox out, as they're rubber and deteriorate over the years.
You'll need to remove the ball joint off the hub which has a TORQ bolt with a nut on the end. They often need cutting off with a grinder, so suggest getting two of them in stock. Also two new hub bolts for the driveshafts, as they're more or less one time use as they have little tabs to bend in when they're torqued up to spec. You need to remove this groove in order to undo the bolt. Best to undo the hub bolts whilst the car is on the floor, remove the wheel and take the centre cap out then put it back on to undo the bolt.
You'll need a flywheel locking tool and slim deep sockets. The clutch plate shouldn't be too tight, you'll also need a universal clutch alignment tool. Also as stated above get the flywheel lapped out, mine never had a mark on it when removed, it only usually has marks on when someone has left a slipping clutch on for too long.
Many thanks! Now adding locking tool, rear mount and block of wood
to my shopping list. I will not be doing this alone (read something about box being quite capable of crushing ribs). I'll try to borrow the alignement tool from my favourite mechanic (have known him for 25 years, so shouldnt be a problem). Are there any seals I should replace to prevent oil leaks?
to my shopping list. I will not be doing this alone (read something about box being quite capable of crushing ribs). I'll try to borrow the alignement tool from my favourite mechanic (have known him for 25 years, so shouldnt be a problem). Are there any seals I should replace to prevent oil leaks?
tuonokid
Active member
If I was replacing the clutch on my Puma I would also renew both driveshaft seals and the gearshift rod seal.
RoadWarrior
Member
You need about 2-3 litres of 75w-90 GL3 up to GL5 (IIRC, I just used 75W-90 GL5) gearbox oil as well. The Puma gearbox holds 2.8 Litres.You will be losing a load when doing this job.
You'll need to remove your battery, battery tray and quite possibly need to remove your airbox in order to get all the bolts from the gearbox. Remember to keep the bolts in order and not to knock them, as some are different lengths! The gear linkages unbolt from underneath the car at the gearbox, one will pop off easy when the bolt comes out, the second one which has a bolt & nut you need to wiggle the gear stick inside the car to get off.
I reccomend removing the gear linkages before beginning to remove engine mounts. The gearbox is a bit heavy. The biggest pain in the backside in this job, is lining the gearbox back upto the clutch. The input shaft has to be in right. Also if you haven't done a clutch before, watch this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFtkcuRVCJM
It's a different car, but it's all very much similar to every clutch job.
P.S you don't want to put high load on the jack when it's on the sump, you literally just want the jack to touch the engine and hold it in place. No load on it.
Edit: As for the oil seals you asked about, whilst the flywheel is off, I recommend changing the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel. It literally bolts into place, you undo the old one, put the new one in and bolt it up. There's nothing to changing the gearbox side crankshaft seal.
Also, thought I'd point out, but you probably already know this, you need a Puma hydrualic release bearing. The Fiesta ST one is different, I'm not sure about the Focus one but I'm fairly sure they both fit the gearbox fine, but the hydrualic lines are different, so you'll be doing the job all over again if you don't use a Puma release bearing. :wink:
Oh and the Puma doesn't have a gearbox drain plug, so you'll end up with oil all over your driveway. I suggest putting something down to catch as much as possible, and have cat litter on hand to put straight on any oil. Then sweep the cat litter up after its dried, and put washing up liquid on it, brush it in and then use water to rinse away, ideally you want to use a jet washer to clean it away.
You'll need to remove your battery, battery tray and quite possibly need to remove your airbox in order to get all the bolts from the gearbox. Remember to keep the bolts in order and not to knock them, as some are different lengths! The gear linkages unbolt from underneath the car at the gearbox, one will pop off easy when the bolt comes out, the second one which has a bolt & nut you need to wiggle the gear stick inside the car to get off.
I reccomend removing the gear linkages before beginning to remove engine mounts. The gearbox is a bit heavy. The biggest pain in the backside in this job, is lining the gearbox back upto the clutch. The input shaft has to be in right. Also if you haven't done a clutch before, watch this YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFtkcuRVCJM
It's a different car, but it's all very much similar to every clutch job.
P.S you don't want to put high load on the jack when it's on the sump, you literally just want the jack to touch the engine and hold it in place. No load on it.
Edit: As for the oil seals you asked about, whilst the flywheel is off, I recommend changing the crankshaft seal behind the flywheel. It literally bolts into place, you undo the old one, put the new one in and bolt it up. There's nothing to changing the gearbox side crankshaft seal.
Also, thought I'd point out, but you probably already know this, you need a Puma hydrualic release bearing. The Fiesta ST one is different, I'm not sure about the Focus one but I'm fairly sure they both fit the gearbox fine, but the hydrualic lines are different, so you'll be doing the job all over again if you don't use a Puma release bearing. :wink:
Oh and the Puma doesn't have a gearbox drain plug, so you'll end up with oil all over your driveway. I suggest putting something down to catch as much as possible, and have cat litter on hand to put straight on any oil. Then sweep the cat litter up after its dried, and put washing up liquid on it, brush it in and then use water to rinse away, ideally you want to use a jet washer to clean it away.
RoadWarrior
Member
That's the flywheel locking tool I'm on about. Not many mechanics have one, as they just use impact guns when doing clutch jobs. If you're using a hand ratchet soon as you put and pressure on to undo the bolts, the clutch will just rotate round.
If you need to buy one, they're about £10-£15 from Machine Mart (can buy online) mine was special order and took a week to come in.
