Running lean, fuel pressure ok? video

[xztraz]

Just took some video of the fuel pressure (while standing still..)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEAAGDrgJTE[/youtube]

Does it seem normal or low on high revs?
Car runs a bit lean if checking the plugs (a bit white).
ecu tries to compensate for more fuel.

3 bar at top of green marker

shitty video :roll:

 

[xztraz]

Anyone?

I might have to test this with engine under load.

 

[DOH]

Take a look at the following.
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?s=b5fbeef66be9367510e03711ada1e295&t=193123&page=2

The abbreviation WOT = Wide Open Throttle.
I have yet to measure the fuel pressure of a Zetec engine , but I would expect close to 40 psi on full throttle.

It will be lower at idle as you will probably have a vacuum of 16-17 in hg at idle, the higher the vacuum reading at idle , the better the engine is running.

Check that your fuel filter isn't blocked and that the fuel pressure diaphragm is OK , (try squirting some WD40 down the vacuum tube as it sometimes helps free up the regulator diaphragm if its sticking, maybe the cars been stood up a while)

To test fuel pressure yes you really need to run it under load, with a colleague sat next to you, reading the gauge whilst you open the throttle on a long straight road.
Idle pressure isn't that critical as the engine doesn't require much fuel at those revs

 

[xztraz]

Thanx for the reply.
I'll check the thread.

I recently changed the fuel filter so that should be ok.
Maf also changed recently to a piersburg (hope that's ok on the ford?).
I'm driving the car every day but something is causing it to run a bit lean. injectors, pump, hoses and regulator left to check.

Good idea to lubricate the regulator but i think some light oil is better since wd40 and 556 gets sticky after a while. I should also put in some injector cleaner in the tank if that might help. mister-auto sells cheap fuel pump renovation kits but the work to pick down the fuel tank in the winter isn't so appealing

I'll see if i can get my hands at a better meeter with a longer hose and do some road testing. As you say its hard to tell when standing still since it creates little vacuum under no load and open throttle. I think the fuel pump is rated at ~3 bar (43psi)

 

[DOH]

Whatever you put in the regulator will be sucked out via the vacuum hose and end up on the spark plugs , you just need to free off in case the regulator is stuck, that is why WD40 is better than oil as it wont foul the spark plugs. k:

Yes blocked injectors is a possible cause, but also check the vacuum hoses around the front on the throttle body, the blanking off capped hose commonly splits causing an air leak and for the engine to run lean

 

[xztraz]

the blanking plug was mended some time ago so that should be ok. i might leak seek some more with brakecleener or similar but don't hear any hissing that might indicate a vacuum leak. if checking fuel trim values they go up over 20% sometimes on medium throttle under medium load. it's quite ok on idle.

 

[DOH]

You won't be able to hear the hissing in most cases, however using carb cleaner or wd40 at the inlet manifold gaskets( there are 2 ) spr ay around the hose that goes into the servo , around each injector o ring ( not common to leak but worth ruling out), There is also a electrical connector plug sitting above the gearbox that powers the fuel injectors. I have found this to be problem some and spraying with wd40 or contact cleaner can make a significant difference. also the braided engine earth between head and bulk head makes a big difference too.

 

[xztraz]

Aren't the power to the injectors coming from the right headlight area?
Braided earth lead renewed recently.

See if i get some time tomorrow. I've bought a better pressure/vacuum meeter now to be able to take load measurements.

I have some special electric contact grease from honda that is awesome at sorting up oxidized connectors and keep them clean. i usually try to fill every connector i'm able to reach within engine bay.

 

[xztraz]

continuing to search why the fuel trim goes up to the 20% area sometimes.

have tried some more with torque and some graphs. and the fuel trim seem to be at worst during heavy load and high revs. so fuel delivery seems to be where to look.

and i also need to sort out why the lambda gives feedback fault (emissions test shows lambda 1.01 so it seem to compensate the engine in the right way at least. Might be the heater in the lambda thats broken or something.

Since the car is very drivable i'm not in a rush

 

[DOH]

If you have a faulty heater element within the lambda sensor, then when plugging the car in to obd2 tester , it will show that up as a fault. another sign of the heater being faulty is that at idle, with the engine at normal temp, the engine idle will monetarily be lumpy for a few seconds.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

I have some special electric contact grease from honda that is awesome at sorting up oxidized connectors and keep them clean. i usually try to fill every connector i'm able to reach within engine bay.

Sorry to hijack your thread, but I have just had an ABS dropout with readout of a dead FL ABS sensor. Turned out that contact was bad, not the sensor. Since that happened I realised that it is going to become a common fault in the future and am looking for something like that you mentioned. Could you (or anyone else, for that matter) recommend something good for sorting up connectors gone bad?
Just contact spray? I'd rather put on some grease to prevent it in the long run….
Once again, sorry for dropping in like this

 

[xztraz]

well i don't have any fault codes what i can see.
only the closed loop fault (Mode 1 PID 03 : 16) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs#Mode_1_PID_03
and a fuel trim that goes a bit to high.

what causes that?

Would be great with another puma to take measurements from. But here in Sweden they are a bit rare.

--------------------------------

On the subject connectors gone bad

* Contact cleaner spray is just usually some solvent and won't clean of oxide so well.

There are different sorts of grease.
* Ordinary silicone based DI-electric grease which basically just blocks out air,water and dirt so the contacts don't oxidize(works well on cleaned and new connectors and spark plug boots)
* De-oxidising DI-electric grease that clean up a lightly oxidized connector and keeps it that way. (the honda grease i have is this sort. lots of warnings and orange health labels).

avoid using any fat or grease on lambda connectors since newer lambda sensors use the cables as air intakes. which reminds me.. i might have done that... :|

 

[DOH]

The fitting instructions for replacing a lambda sensor do state not to use any grease. Yes I would advise to remove the lambda and clean with carb cleaner.
Sorry not sure about the pid 03:16. Does it refer to?

Mode 1 PID 03[edit]
A request for this PID returns 2 bytes of data. The first byte describes fuel system #1.

Value Description
1 Open loop due to insufficient engine temperature
2 Closed loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix
4 Open loop due to engine load OR fuel cut due to deceleration
8 Open loop due to system failure
16 Closed loop, using at least one oxygen sensor but there is a fault in the feedback system


Have you also checked the connector / wiring that the lambda plugs into?

 

[xztraz]

Should clean the connector.. The mounting in the exhaust have no grease at least

Exactly the underlined code is what i get. how long should the lamda take to heat up normaly? could measure the time it takes in idle to get from open-loop to that code and possibly rule out the heater.

I usually try to rule out as much as possible before ripping things apart but might have to start dig in the car.
checklist so far.

* check for intake leaks with spray
* take fuel pressure readings under load.
* check lambda cables and clean out connector.

I might have to change a drive shaft too. starting to get a bit bouncy. ugh.. The inner cv thingie on right side felt a bit loose and probably not much grease in it either.

 

[DOH]

From my previous post in 2012-Unplug the lambda connector nd check that the pins aren't corroded. That would be one of a few things that would mess up your readings. Clean contacts wit wd40 or electrical contact sprqay. ?Next is a fault code read. Lambdas do fail.
You can check the resistance of the lambda sensor preheater across 2 of the 3 pins from memory it should be 13 ohms. but search for previous info i posted about this

 

[xztraz]

I will check the connector. But main problem now is drive shaft that needs changing. Waiting for a qoute from ian g.