Tracking settings.

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plasticsniffer

New member
Joined
Jan 26, 2011
Messages
79
Location
North Derbyshire
Just a quick one, as my TIS is playing up! What is the front tracking setting on a standard 1.7? I've seen 1mm on each side, toe out, but that may have been for an FRP. mm would be best as I'm doing the job myself as money is too tight to pay someone! Cheers!
 
Castor
Angle = 2.5 degrees Tolerance = 3.75 to 1.25 degrees

Camber
Angle = 0.9 degrees Tolerance = 0.2 to -2.00 degrees

Maximum Variation - left to right-hand side - Castor 1.0 degree, Camber 1.25 degrees

Toe Setting
Setting Adjustment = -2.0mm Toe out to +/- 1.0mm
Tolerance = 0.5mm Toe in to -4.5mm Toe out

The 'official' Ford Line is as follows - Units are in Decimal Degrees (*): Front Wheel Alignment Caster : 1.25* to 3.75* Camber : -2.00* to 0.20* Toe: -0.76* Toe Out to 0.08* Toe In or -4.5mm Toe Out to 0.5mm Toe In

Rear Wheel Alignment Camber : -2.00* to -0.50* (unless your Rear Beam is 98FB 5K952 DD, then it's: -2.80* to -1.30*) Toe: 0.13* Toe In to 0.79* Toe In or 1mm Toe In to 5mm Toe In
 
Many thanks for the fast reply! Only planning on checking/adjusting the tracking, but will keep the info for later use. Is there a section on the forum for technical specs, like this?
 
Usually gets stickied in one area or another usually FAQs or Wheels & Tyres for example. (Maybe not in stickied in FAQs as it's not required)
 
yippeekiay said:
The 'official' Ford Line is as follows - Units are in Decimal Degrees (*): Front Wheel Alignment Caster : 1.25* to 3.75* Camber : -2.00* to 0.20* Toe: -0.76* Toe Out to 0.08* Toe In or -4.5mm Toe Out to 0.5mm Toe In

:lol: lol... take that to quick fit and see what you end up with... :funny: :funny:

I'd suggest a small amount of toe in, 0.04 deg/mins on each side (equiv to around .5mm)....
it will drive like a proper bag of shite running positive toe! :)

Chris
 
haha....they'd crap themselves.

Last time I went to someone who did it correctly I got them to set mine at exactly zero which worked perfectly. 0.5mm toe in is near as damn it zero as I think a gnats knacker is bigger than that....lol.
 
Yep, my fiesta runs no toe and is set to parellel (which is ideal for that car)....

but it wasn't without a lot of hassle! they got it right 3rd time round..lol my fiesta is a Late mk4 (99) and they were putting on the 99-02 settings of the zetecS..and applying WAY too much toe without knowing of course what affect this would have on such a standard car....

running 0 toe the car drives atreat a 70 and the tyres wear very evenly... a little toe in helps with straight line stability if you like driving a bit quicker... the FRP runs 0.08deg/min on each side and feels PERFECT at around 90 when the tyres are balanced properly... but doesn't feel as good as the fiesta at a steady 70....

Finding somewhere that does a 'proper' job is VERY hit and miss...a complete headache!..

the problem is that the Hunter equipment, although VERY accurate will have the min - max settings stored in it's dataase and the operator will then set the car to the middle of that setting on the screen, even thos this may not actually be the ideal setting at all... so your going to end up with far too much toe based on those 'book' settings....

I'd say you've got more chance of getting it set to the ideal settings at the ford dealer than anywhere else..all be it at a lot more money! :?

the problem i found with going armed with your own settings is...

a.. Garages generally don't like being told what to do and are just used to doing their own work in their own sloppy way..lol
b.. even worse, they dont actually know anything about car geometry and only have an understanding of how the equipment works... common sense and intellegence seems to be ignored against what they see on a screen as red or green..lol

Chris
 
el dude said:
Finding somewhere that does a 'proper' job is VERY hit and miss...a complete headache!..

I can identify with that. I've had it done since as I had the coilovers fitted. The first time was with the same garage and the steering was way off centre but it was the day before I went to the Nurb' in April and I didn't have time for them to piss about sorting it. I went back after the trip but the gaffer wasn't there so I asked one of the monkeys and he said, duh, we can't do it cos it's on coilovers. I asked why they charged me a few weeks previously for doing it and he went all blank i.e. his face expression didn't change....lol.

So I went elsewhere where I'm assuming it was one of those Hunter systems (they have 4 hexagon disc thingies that they clamp to the wheels). Suprise, suprise, the steering wheel still came out off centre :evil:
 
So I went elsewhere where I'm assuming it was one of those Hunter systems (they have 4 hexagon disc thingies that they clamp to the wheels). Suprise, suprise, the steering wheel still came out off centre

yep, my experience of the off center steering wheel is the same...

what strikes me as slightly rediculous is that the operator knows that the whole process is going to take around 30mins to do, but yet can't be bothered to actually sit inside the car and spend a few minutes aligning the steering with thought and care!! mm, a fairly critical part of the service me thinks... but instead i caught the guy standing on the edge of the ramps trying to line up the wheel through the window..lol

Surely anyone with half a brain would realise that spending a few more minutes to get this part right would save 30 minutes and a lot of arguing when having to do it again and an unhappy customer...

when the front wheels are on 'cups' the steering is EXTREMELY light, and to be fair it is really difficult to get it bang in the middle, so it really does need someone to take a bit of care to get it right before clamping the position...

Chris
 
You're all implying tracking is a hit and miss affair at high street places! That's partly why I'm planning on doing it myself. Firstly, I can measure the current settings, as I know how the car handles, ie turn in is superb in the dry, but lethal understeer in the wet! Then I can adjust it to centre the steering wheel, which is way out and winding me up. Then I can set it to the 'recomended' setting and see how it feels. I've always understood that front wheel drive cars should have just a knats of toe out, to help with stability under acceleration, which is where Yip was coming from at the start. Most of my driving is country lanes with the occasional motorway trip, so turn in is more important than stability at motorway speeds. The other thing to consider, just to get technical, is that diferent tyres have different slip angles, so what works for a budget tyre, may not be best for a Yoko or Bridgestone. I'm just about to put some part worn Bridgestones on (came with a set of multispokes I've just bought) to replace some cheap tyres, so just changing the tyres could make a huge differance! I'll report back when the job's done!
 
An update at last! I've finaly got to checking and adjusting the tracking. The steering wheel was out by about 30 degrees, so I was determined to get this about right. Setting up the string lines took a while, but once done, the existing tracking was checked at 16mm toe in. No wonder it turned in well if you chucked it in, but was a little unsure otherwise! After a lot of tooing and froeing, it's now set to 2.5mm toe out (and yes, I am comfortable measuring to 0.5mm). Driving it, it felt very different! Not sure I like it, but I'll drive it for a few days and see. It feels a little vague, but as it was snowing on the way back, it's hard to judge. I suspect I'll start winding it to toe in, but watch this space.
 
Just a quick one..
had an alignment done around 2 months ago, felt fine for 6 weeks until I noticed it skipping again. No noticeable uneven tyre wear but thought I'd take it back to be checked. Took it back this morning to the same place and the boss who happens to be a good friend told me that last time they had set my wheels parallel when it should have been a negative 4 so that's what they are currently set to. Can anyone confirm that as correct? I've just come across this post after getting home and not entirely convinced that's correct either.
Either way I didn't pay for the tracking this morning as he said it was their mistake and shall be having words with the guy who did it last :?
 
Looking at the supplied Ford readings from yippeekiay. I would have thought anything between parallel and 1.5mm toe out would be correct, ideally aiming to achieve 1.0mm toe out.
Most garages incorrectly aim to set parallel, without consulting any auto data. Front wheel drive cars have a slight bit of toe out , rear wheel drive have toe in.

Peter Beattie mentioned to me that both Ford dealerships & Kwik Fit were setting FRP's wrong (their tracking is different to a standard Puma), Peter then had to tell them what to set it back to, as it made a dramatic difference to the cars handling!

Don't ever go to Kwik Fit for tracking, it will come out worse than it went in, so they can shortly sell you new tyres, due to uneven tyre wear caused by them setting it incorrectly!

A good independent garage that actually knows how to read the gauges is vital. It's best to use four wheel gauges that measure front to rear via the light/lase, in addition to offside to nearside wheels.
 
It is an independent, highly recommended garage I use who specialise in tyres. It is 4 wheel laser they use. So they are wrong again to have set mine now to negative 4? They said they had double checked and it is what Pumas run at. (My fault for not having done my own homework beforehand)
Just wondering whether to go back and tell them to push in to 1mm seeming I won't have to pay for another error?
 
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