Weird gauges (max then zero)

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Does anyone know where that middle thick wire from the negative battery terminal is attached? I'd like to check that it isn't responsible for my weird electrics before I spend a load of money on a new alternator.
 
I've taken some pictures to help clarify which lead this is. The letters are as in the diagram (L, C and R) with C being the one I am interested in. It comes from the centre of the negative battery terminal, but isn't connected to anything. I also took a close up of the terminal at the other end of the wire. Obviously it isn't as huge as that photo makes it look ;-)

Where does this wire connect?:
Puma_Neg_Connection1a_zps7a21861a.jpg


Terminal:
Puma_Neg_Connection1_zps081e0813.jpg
 
I'll have a look at mine but can't do anything until later as I'm at work. If i can get a picture and you still need to know by then, you can either PM me your mobile number and I'll send you a picture or wait until late afternoon/early evening when i get home and I'll upload it to here. I can't upload to here directly from my phone.
 
l is for a amp power supply
is c connected to the neagative on the battery?? if so i think it should be bolted to the gearbox by 1 of the gearbox bolts,if it isnt connected to the battery then it needs to be connected back to it,as for the other i think that should be ok as its only earthed to the bodywork
 
topmansparkie: Cheers, a picture this evening would be really helpful. Thanks!

martinthrapston: Thanks for the info. My arrow for L may not have been too clear, but it is the thin wires connected to the battery negative (not the thick red wire). They look to go into the ECU bundle. As you say, R is connected to the bodywork. Thick wire C is connected to the battery and it is where the other end connects that I am after. You say it's to the gearbox which would make sense, but I'm keen to have a photo so I get it right. I'm new to the puma.

I measured some voltages and was able to see 17+V between the alternator housing and its positive lead, so it's got to be the regulator. The drops along the battery/alternator leads went quite high (0.15V on negative* and 0.26V on positive*) but that may be due to a high current going to the battery?

*negative side measured between alternator housing and battery's negative terminal, positive side measured between alternator positive lead connection and battery's positive terminal.
 
Just had a look at my car.
As Martin says, it should be connected to the gearbox. If you were to look at the end of the engine from the gearbox side, mine is under the bolt basically top right, below the water pipe/outlet. I've got a picture which I'll post up this evening.
 
2012-12-31-381.jpg


Picture taken from near the bulkhead/above the exhaust manifold, looking downwards.
 
I have replaced the alternator. I got one for a good price from EuroCarParts (RTX Alternator, Part No.: 401680802). They have a 25% off at the moment so about £55, bargain. I fitted it this morning which went pretty smoothly despite the lack of any manual. Didn't see any strange behaviour on a short drive afterwards in which I pushed the revs and had the fan on 4 and lights on.

I thought I would write a quick guide to the alternator change. This is what I did which worked for me, not necessarily how you should do it. This is for my 1.7 1999 Puma.

First off I removed the positive lead from the battery. Then I removed the positive lead from the alternator and the two wire connector as well (this required pushing the small wire clip in towards the connector housing, then comes off very easily (don't pull wire)).

Photo showing removed two-wire connector with retaining clip labelled:
Two_Wire_Alternator_connector_clip_zps76ea62d6.jpg


Three bolts mount the alternator onto the engine block (two 15mm and one 13mm). The easiest one to access is at the very top and was loosened first but removed last. Next to loosen came the 10mm bolt which goes into a hole on the front of the alternator. It was tricky to reach but ok using a ratchet and extension. Then I loosened the other 13mm bolt that is at the bottom of the alternator using a ratchet (limited space for motion).

I removed the two harder to reach bolts by hand as then I was sure that I would be able to engage the bolts by hand when installing the new alternator.

Next came the fun part. I couldn't find a diagram of the alternator/auxiliary pulley arrangement on Google, but could work out that it should have a tensioner. I figured it had to be the lower rear pulley on the basis of the fact that it had a bolt-head to engage on to loosen the belt tension. Access was a problem so I jacked up the front (nsf) and removed the wheel. This gave access for a 13mm ring spanner. Turning this anticlockwise loosened the belt and allowed it to be taken off the alternator pulley. The tensioner spring then held the spanner against the side of the hole I used for access which helped hold it on and avoid the tensioner having to be adjusted. I guess it is essential to not lose the tensioner at this point hence the importance of using a ring spanner.

Photo showing the spanner on the belt tensioner pulley accessed through wheel arch (notice precautionary axle stand just incase, green arrow):
Tensioner_spanner_zps8fdf2442.jpg


Removing the the three bolts didn't free the alternator as there are metal bushes that were gripping the mount at the top. I used a lever to gently loosen that and off it came.

Photo showing alternator removed (15mm bolt positions shown by red arrows, 13mm by green):
Alternator_out_zps62e548b7.jpg


New alternator in, bolts finger tight and then belt back on by turning tensioner nut anticlockwise and slipping belt over the alternator pulley. Checked it was properly on each pulley I could see. I then ratchet tightened each bolt, starting with the front 13mm. Final tighten with tension taken off the belt. For the front 13mm bolt, the ratchet extension I was using resulted in it being easiest to feed the ratchet between the hose and front bulkhead whilst holding the socket and extension onto the bolt (hand passed through next to radiator).

Photo showing new alternator in (red arrow pointing at two-wire connector clip, pink star showing hose in 13mm bolt comments):
New_alternator_small_zpsdc019f7a.jpg


Two-wire connector pushed on easily. Reattached the positive alternator lead and then the positive battery lead. Replaced the front wheel, not forgetting to remove the tensioner spanner, and job done.

Having done it once, I would now say it is a pretty straightforward job. Help was very useful when taking the tension off the belt and feeding it onto the puylley, but that is the only two person bit (other than good conversation and morale). The only difficulty is access. I needed to use a breaker bar on the lower 15mm bolt as it was so stiff but otherwise all good. The main way you could go wrong is by losing control of the tensioner or forgetting to remove that spanner when done. Very important to disconnect the battery positive lead (at the battery)!
 
speedofthepuma said:
Oooh that looks nice and shiney!

I found it a little easier to remove the drivers side headlight. Gives a better view of the alternator.
When I removed mine, I couldn't get the lower right bolt undone as for some reason, the socket extension bars I had were either too small or too large. In the end, I got an extension bar which is about 2' long for a couple of quid. I used that to poke through a gap above the radiator.

Either way mate, job well done! Hope you've now got rid of your electrical gremlins!
 
Wow thanks for this my car is exactly the same with the sweeping dials etc so getting a new alternator this week to sort it out !
Then rear bushes :roll:
 
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