YOG
Well-known member
My LH headlamp levelling stopped working, but I could still hear the motor running continuously whilst headlights were on. This is how I repaired it. Guide is for LH headlamp, but RH is basically the same.
The problem appears to have been caused by top 2 swivel push-fittings becoming tight and adjusting rod shaft pulling from its locating clip.
Switch dipped headlights and ignition on (without starting engine, so lights warning buzzer doesn't go off). Now, set interior headlamp adjusting control to number “4”so that dipped beams are at their lowest level. Wait a short while for adjustment to complete, then turn dial to its highest setting and quickly get out of car and listen to each headlamp to see if both motors are running. A correctly functioning motor will stop running when the headlamp reaches its new level, whilst a continuously running one can probably be repaired as follows. No motor noise at all may mean either electrical problems, faulty motor or something broken – not covered here:
The reason for setting at highest level will be apparent later, but what it does is fully extend the adjusting rod (white in 1st pic):
Open bonnet and remove 2 Torx (T30)/Flat Blade screws locating grill and pull upwards to unclip:
Remove Torx (T30)/Flat Blade screw securing headlamp top bracket:
Remove Torx (T30)/Flat Blade screw securing headlamp base and then rotate securing bracket to release unit:
Pull headlamp unit forward from car. Disconnect wiring harness and pull off headlamp drainage tube. Remove unit from car. In cold weather, leave unit indoors to warm up “Plastic”, so that clips are more pliable and don’t break during disassembly:
Release 4 of these clips and remove front lens from housing:
Release 2 “wire” clips at rear and take off cover from housing. Remove connectors from main and dipped bulbs. I removed the bulbs as well, not absolutely necessary, but makes it easier to work on later:
At front of housing (near bottom) is a lever (left of silver Torx screw in pic). This releases lens unit from motor levelling rod. Push lever to side whilst pulling lens assembly forward just enough to release it:
At top, pull 2 swivel push-fittings from their sockets to remove lens assembly from housing. You will need to pull firmly, as it takes some force. This part of headlamp unit swings backwards/forwards to lower/raise beam.
Lens assembly removed, showing 2 swivel push-fittings.
These are the top 2 pivots and sockets which I lubricated:
At the bottom of the following picture in the centre, you can see the "socket" that the "ball" end of the adjusting rod clips in.
I lubricated this ball and socket as well, because it can also get "tight/stiff" like the top 2 and in an extreme case could pull apart:
Housing with motor:
Unplug multi-connector from motor (Be careful not to damage wiring). Remove 2 Torx (T20) screws and pull motor from housing:
Motor removed (locates on 2 “pegs”):
Motor front:
Motor (Rear):
Gently lever the 4 locating tabs on the cover at the rear and remove:
Cover removed from motor.
There was very little lubricant on cogs, so I applied a small amount of thin silicone grease on mine:
I also put a light coating on adjusting rod shaft:
Before replacing rear cover, I reconnected multi-connector to motor and housing connector to wiring harness, then operated headlamp levelling switch a few times to distribute grease. After disconnecting again, I applied another coating of silicone grease to cogs and adjusting rod shaft and some to top 2 swivel push-fittings and sockets, prior to reassembling headlamp unit.
After connecting the wiring harness and drainage tube, test the lights and headlamp levelling are working before final assembly.
If you’re going to do this repair, it’s probably better to do both headlamps at the same time, even if one seems OK.
31st March2013 - Update "Dreek" on PumaPeople posted the following:
"Job done, thanks for the great guide (so good i managed without the pictures!) and help.
In the end I had to remove the PCB from the headlamp adjustment motor assembly, desolder the potentiometer and spread its fingers a little to make better contact, before reassembly and test. I was able to diagnose the specific fault detail by reconnecting the motor assembly into the headlamp assembly with its lid removed (in the car) and applying pressure to the potentiometer wiper while it jumped around - when I did this the motor stopped chattering and settled into a stable position. Bit fiddly (borrowed a magnifier from the wife's crafting gubbins) and you need to be able to solder properly, but it's doable.
Finally, lubricating the headlamp locking mechanism with wd40 made refitting much easier.
Replacement eBay part on order anyway - it's only an hour's job now I know how.
Thanks again for the help; this forum is going to save me a fortune in garage costs!"
The problem appears to have been caused by top 2 swivel push-fittings becoming tight and adjusting rod shaft pulling from its locating clip.
Switch dipped headlights and ignition on (without starting engine, so lights warning buzzer doesn't go off). Now, set interior headlamp adjusting control to number “4”so that dipped beams are at their lowest level. Wait a short while for adjustment to complete, then turn dial to its highest setting and quickly get out of car and listen to each headlamp to see if both motors are running. A correctly functioning motor will stop running when the headlamp reaches its new level, whilst a continuously running one can probably be repaired as follows. No motor noise at all may mean either electrical problems, faulty motor or something broken – not covered here:
The reason for setting at highest level will be apparent later, but what it does is fully extend the adjusting rod (white in 1st pic):
Open bonnet and remove 2 Torx (T30)/Flat Blade screws locating grill and pull upwards to unclip:
Remove Torx (T30)/Flat Blade screw securing headlamp top bracket:
Remove Torx (T30)/Flat Blade screw securing headlamp base and then rotate securing bracket to release unit:
Pull headlamp unit forward from car. Disconnect wiring harness and pull off headlamp drainage tube. Remove unit from car. In cold weather, leave unit indoors to warm up “Plastic”, so that clips are more pliable and don’t break during disassembly:
Release 4 of these clips and remove front lens from housing:
Release 2 “wire” clips at rear and take off cover from housing. Remove connectors from main and dipped bulbs. I removed the bulbs as well, not absolutely necessary, but makes it easier to work on later:
At front of housing (near bottom) is a lever (left of silver Torx screw in pic). This releases lens unit from motor levelling rod. Push lever to side whilst pulling lens assembly forward just enough to release it:
At top, pull 2 swivel push-fittings from their sockets to remove lens assembly from housing. You will need to pull firmly, as it takes some force. This part of headlamp unit swings backwards/forwards to lower/raise beam.
Lens assembly removed, showing 2 swivel push-fittings.
These are the top 2 pivots and sockets which I lubricated:
At the bottom of the following picture in the centre, you can see the "socket" that the "ball" end of the adjusting rod clips in.
I lubricated this ball and socket as well, because it can also get "tight/stiff" like the top 2 and in an extreme case could pull apart:
Housing with motor:
Unplug multi-connector from motor (Be careful not to damage wiring). Remove 2 Torx (T20) screws and pull motor from housing:
Motor removed (locates on 2 “pegs”):
Motor front:
Motor (Rear):
Gently lever the 4 locating tabs on the cover at the rear and remove:
Cover removed from motor.
There was very little lubricant on cogs, so I applied a small amount of thin silicone grease on mine:
I also put a light coating on adjusting rod shaft:
Before replacing rear cover, I reconnected multi-connector to motor and housing connector to wiring harness, then operated headlamp levelling switch a few times to distribute grease. After disconnecting again, I applied another coating of silicone grease to cogs and adjusting rod shaft and some to top 2 swivel push-fittings and sockets, prior to reassembling headlamp unit.
After connecting the wiring harness and drainage tube, test the lights and headlamp levelling are working before final assembly.
If you’re going to do this repair, it’s probably better to do both headlamps at the same time, even if one seems OK.
31st March2013 - Update "Dreek" on PumaPeople posted the following:
"Job done, thanks for the great guide (so good i managed without the pictures!) and help.
In the end I had to remove the PCB from the headlamp adjustment motor assembly, desolder the potentiometer and spread its fingers a little to make better contact, before reassembly and test. I was able to diagnose the specific fault detail by reconnecting the motor assembly into the headlamp assembly with its lid removed (in the car) and applying pressure to the potentiometer wiper while it jumped around - when I did this the motor stopped chattering and settled into a stable position. Bit fiddly (borrowed a magnifier from the wife's crafting gubbins) and you need to be able to solder properly, but it's doable.
Finally, lubricating the headlamp locking mechanism with wd40 made refitting much easier.
Replacement eBay part on order anyway - it's only an hour's job now I know how.
Thanks again for the help; this forum is going to save me a fortune in garage costs!"