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Anonymous
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I'm loving you Puma... you wanna swap..!? :roll:
"Friday" R99 JRW - Very Picture Heavy
- Thread starter Flying Scotsman
- Start date
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Flying Scotsman
New member
MMMM, nope.... but thank you for the compliment.... to think i completely smashed the front end in and everyone told me to scrap it, and now how it looks.... Turbo next though.
Flying Scotsman
New member
Just an update...
After doing two days of graft on the car i managed to get the majority of the new parts onto the car.... Unfortunately, afterwards... the car misfires, and the reason completely boggles me.....
The car has been parked up now for the next 5 months to alot of TLC is required when I get back... and boy will it get some attention...
What I aim to do in the first week of getting back to it:
Right wishbone replaced
Rear beam replaced for eye mounts
Rear spacers fitted
Suspension (of some sort)
Radiator fan system fixed
Battery re-located to the boot
New air filter
New Steering wheel
Black Carpet
Larger Tasks
Full engine rebuild
Turbo Conversion 200bhp+
Near Future Tasks
Larger Fuel Tank
Bodywork Rust Rectified
Underneath Rust removed and Treated
Flocked Dash
RS Mk2 Front Seats
Possible Tasks
Full Wide Arch Conversion
RS Mk2 Front Bumper
RS Mk2 Rear Bumper
After doing two days of graft on the car i managed to get the majority of the new parts onto the car.... Unfortunately, afterwards... the car misfires, and the reason completely boggles me.....
The car has been parked up now for the next 5 months to alot of TLC is required when I get back... and boy will it get some attention...
What I aim to do in the first week of getting back to it:
Right wishbone replaced
Rear beam replaced for eye mounts
Rear spacers fitted
Suspension (of some sort)
Radiator fan system fixed
Battery re-located to the boot
New air filter
New Steering wheel
Black Carpet
Larger Tasks
Full engine rebuild
Turbo Conversion 200bhp+
Near Future Tasks
Larger Fuel Tank
Bodywork Rust Rectified
Underneath Rust removed and Treated
Flocked Dash
RS Mk2 Front Seats
Possible Tasks
Full Wide Arch Conversion
RS Mk2 Front Bumper
RS Mk2 Rear Bumper
ScubaSteve
Active member
- Joined
- May 8, 2010
- Messages
- 3,749
Iv said this a million times before to various people so apologies for banging the drum lol, but battery relocation to the boot, is a pointless task and will only have a negative effect on handling in that position no advantages to be gained at all. Try and locate it behind the passenger seat and ideally replace it for a lightweight gel unit
Flying Scotsman
New member
ScubaSteve said:
Ah but i have rear seats.... so no battery is going on the floor... and its not about handling etc... its about making space in the engine bay for the turbo conversion as that space will hold the oil catch tank and adjustable fuel pressure regulator and the air filter is positioned there, rather than around it. But the replacement is on the cards for a racing battery.
PumaNoob
New member
Just remember you wont be able to leave your car long with alarm and immobiliser on with a racing battery before it drains, unless of cours you are going to fit a cut off switch. Thats why i opted for a standard battery, because i wanted to keep the alarm and didnt want to have to set my clock and radio settings every time i got into the car. My battery is in the boot, and the spoiler made more difference to handling then the battery.
Flying Scotsman
New member
So i presume, racing batteries don't hold the charge the same as standard then? I was going for racing simply due to the size of it.
Flying Scotsman
New member
Sparx said:
Got it.
PumaNoob
New member
I could be wrong mate, but when i looked into getting a redtop, for the same reasons you did, i was told that they wont hold a charge for anywhere near as long as a standard battery, with the alarm on i think you might get 2 days out of it. I didnt really do any more research so if you find anything that is smaller and will hold the charge for longer, let me know as i wouldnt mind down sizing!
Flying Scotsman
New member
Yeah i will do bud. Strange though as the racing batteries are only half the size so you'd expect half the charge... not just two days powering and immobiliser and alarm....
mix2000
Active member
My Integra standard battery is tiny (Has to fit between the top of the strut and the bulkhead).
ScubaSteve
Active member
- Joined
- May 8, 2010
- Messages
- 3,749
Depends you can get gel light batterys with a high aH, but they are pricey
moondustka
Active member
I have a Powervamp one.. the PV25 I think.
That was fine with my alarm etc. used to last a week in cold weather and you could just about start the car again.
I wouldn't go back to an ordinary battery - the size and weight of one is silly by comparison.
That was fine with my alarm etc. used to last a week in cold weather and you could just about start the car again.
I wouldn't go back to an ordinary battery - the size and weight of one is silly by comparison.
Flying Scotsman
New member
I've had an idea that i'm wondering if anyone has any ideas towards.
The idea is to remove my FRP rear bench seat and rear quarter cards panels, Install a simple rear bolt in roll cage with cross bars, but i wish to retain the speakers in the rear quarter but with the bench seat removed and the door cards it will look shabby. I'm thinking of re-carpeting the entire flooring to make it look better and a smoother floor. With this i know the dip from under the bench seat will need to be resolved somehow. Also does anyone have any ideas of tidying up the sides where the quarter cards were?
What im hoping to achieve is a larger space in the rear with a smooth floor and sides. The floor I want to use standard vehicle flooring carpaet and perhaps the side panels to be flocked.
What are peoples thoughts and ideas?
The idea is to remove my FRP rear bench seat and rear quarter cards panels, Install a simple rear bolt in roll cage with cross bars, but i wish to retain the speakers in the rear quarter but with the bench seat removed and the door cards it will look shabby. I'm thinking of re-carpeting the entire flooring to make it look better and a smoother floor. With this i know the dip from under the bench seat will need to be resolved somehow. Also does anyone have any ideas of tidying up the sides where the quarter cards were?
What im hoping to achieve is a larger space in the rear with a smooth floor and sides. The floor I want to use standard vehicle flooring carpaet and perhaps the side panels to be flocked.
What are peoples thoughts and ideas?
To cover the holes left behind the door cards and potentially mount the speakers, you could use some aluminium sheet and rivet or bond it around the edges. If your budget will stretch to it, you could go for carbon fibre sheet. You could use some dynamat superlite on the rear of the panels to keep a bit of refinement.
Same for the floor really, shape out a structure to support a single or a couple of fitted aluminium panels. They needn't be thick if they're well attached. 1mm if you don't want too much load, 2mm if you do. Flat stuff would be easy to carpet or cover with material or as you say flock. There are some options available from somewhere like woolies trim - you might even be able to get it to nearly match what you currently have.
I guess, if you put some thought into it you could have a flat floor with a storage compartment that uses the dip under the bench. Wouldn't be too much work to cut a door into the flat floor. Not sure how much depth you'd get or what you'd store in there but just an idea.
Same for the floor really, shape out a structure to support a single or a couple of fitted aluminium panels. They needn't be thick if they're well attached. 1mm if you don't want too much load, 2mm if you do. Flat stuff would be easy to carpet or cover with material or as you say flock. There are some options available from somewhere like woolies trim - you might even be able to get it to nearly match what you currently have.
I guess, if you put some thought into it you could have a flat floor with a storage compartment that uses the dip under the bench. Wouldn't be too much work to cut a door into the flat floor. Not sure how much depth you'd get or what you'd store in there but just an idea.
Flying Scotsman
New member
The dip doesnt need to be flattened persay, as there are a couple of things that will be getting bolted into there, but i like the ali plates and i thought of CF but if i just want to flock over the sides then no point using CF just to cover it.
Alu plates are certainly the best price/weight ratio. I recently replaced the floor of my other car with all new sheets, didn't come to much and it was a couple of square metres! Knock up some cardboard templates and see how much you need, then play the puzzle game and try to fit everything you need into the smallest piece of sheet possible!
If you're riveting remember also to put something between the aluminium sheets and the steel body otherwise you'll eventually get galvanic corrosion where the dissimilar metals are touching (paint tends not to be enough). I used some heavy duty gaffer tape called Gorilla Tape and some closed-cell neoprene tape to form a watertight seal (which you probably wouldn't need). Also be careful about selecting rivet material for the same reasons.
If you bonded the sheets, that might be enough to separate them from each other and could be a much simpler job. I wouldn't really know what to use in that case but I'm sure I could get some recommendations if you wanted. Mine was structural and I couldn't get my head around using just adhesive!
If you're riveting remember also to put something between the aluminium sheets and the steel body otherwise you'll eventually get galvanic corrosion where the dissimilar metals are touching (paint tends not to be enough). I used some heavy duty gaffer tape called Gorilla Tape and some closed-cell neoprene tape to form a watertight seal (which you probably wouldn't need). Also be careful about selecting rivet material for the same reasons.
If you bonded the sheets, that might be enough to separate them from each other and could be a much simpler job. I wouldn't really know what to use in that case but I'm sure I could get some recommendations if you wanted. Mine was structural and I couldn't get my head around using just adhesive!
Flying Scotsman
New member
I already have sound deadening covering the steel floor but the worst ever.... Its got a tar like substance on it so it will most certainly never be getting removed, due to the fact that it sticks to everything.... i still have a 10mm socket that it wont give back to me. But in a round-about way it would provide a good buffering layer between steel and ali. AS the rear of the flooring is realitively smooth and i would consider a thin neoprene layering, my issue would ont have to be a smoother transiton over the rear bench area. Something flat to bolts some things to, and the walls but i doubt i'll use ali for this.
