front shocks.

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Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
110
Hi, just ordered two front shocks to complete the set.
The job looks straight forward but I've read that the bottom ball joint needs to be undone.
I can't see why, can it be done by just undoing the shocker pinch bolt.
 
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=20952" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewforum.php?f=51" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
YOG said:
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=20952

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewforum.php?f=51" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thank you looks easy enough just looks a little tricky getting the strut free.
Did a search but could not find the post and didn't know we had a how to section as I never scroll down far enough.
 
Did both of my struts easy enough, once the pinch bolt is undone a bit of force sees the strut free, as I recall there is enough room to get it out without hassle
 
People find their own preferred way of doing this job, this is the procedure I use...
Whilst the car is still on its wheels, loosen the strut top nut but don't remove it.
Remove the wheel centre cap and remove the big hub retaining nut, for this you need a decent breaker bar or rattle gun.
Jack up car and remove the wheel. Secure on axle stands or similar.
Remove the arch liner .
Disconnect the ABS sensor up under the wing.
Remove the brake caliper and tie up out of the way.
Remove the drop link.
Split the track rod end ball joint from the hub knuckle.
Remove the wishbone (yes, the bolts may be a pig to remove but may as well do them)
Pull the knuckle outwards and tap the drive shaft through with a lump hammer.
This will leave the strut swinging free, tap a big screwdriver or something into the gap where the pinch bolt came from.
A few will directed hits down on the knuckle with a decent lump hammer will remove it. Doing it this way, its own weight helps to remove it, and you are not fighting against the upward resistance of the wishbone as it's not there.
Remove the top nut and remove the strut.
The knuckle can be easily fitted to the new strut by turning the strut upside down and tapping the knuckle on, then the whole unit can be put back as one and everything re-assembled in reverse order.
It may seem like a lot of work but it gives you the chance to check/replace other things as required, and it really does make the removal of the knuckle from the strut much easier.
Paul
 
Agree with above - since writing the guide, I've done a few more of these. Giving the hub a good whack with a metal lump hammer around where the strut goes in is the easiest way. Soon gets it free!
 
748 said:
People find their own preferred way of doing this job, this is the procedure I use...
Whilst the car is still on its wheels, loosen the strut top nut but don't remove it.
Remove the wheel centre cap and remove the big hub retaining nut, for this you need a decent breaker bar or rattle gun.
Jack up car and remove the wheel. Secure on axle stands or similar.
Remove the arch liner .
Disconnect the ABS sensor up under the wing.
Remove the brake caliper and tie up out of the way.
Remove the drop link.
Split the track rod end ball joint from the hub knuckle.
Remove the wishbone (yes, the bolts may be a pig to remove but may as well do them)
Pull the knuckle outwards and tap the drive shaft through with a lump hammer.
This will leave the strut swinging free, tap a big screwdriver or something into the gap where the pinch bolt came from.
A few will directed hits down on the knuckle with a decent lump hammer will remove it. Doing it this way, its own weight helps to remove it, and you are not fighting against the upward resistance of the wishbone as it's not there.
Remove the top nut and remove the strut.
The knuckle can be easily fitted to the new strut by turning the strut upside down and tapping the knuckle on, then the whole unit can be put back as one and everything re-assembled in reverse order.
It may seem like a lot of work but it gives you the chance to check/replace other things as required, and it really does make the removal of the knuckle from the strut much easier.
Paul
Hi
You're right it does seem a lot of work. If I had to do all this I would give the job to my local garage.
I'll try the removing pinch bolt way and tell you how I get on.
 
My method is...

Crack the wheel nuts off while the car is on the ground
jack front of the car up, support with axle stands
Now depending on size of brakes, remove brake calliper and disc (probably wouldn't if stand puma)
Remove drop link from a strut
Remove brake line from strut
Remove pinch bolt on lower arm ball joint.
Push lower arm and ball joint free from hub (knuckle- same thing) and move hub over slightly. Put a cap over the ball joint so the rubber doesn't get damaged.
Remove pinch bolt for strut into hub.
Tap hub off the strut
Remove strut top nut (mind the strut will fall out after this!)

That's how I've done it every time and not much to put back together. But as said previously everyone has their own way.
I would say the method above is better but a lot longer.
 
Hi, just completed one of the shocks.
No problem at all. Undo drop link and brake pipe from bracket, leave the ball joint conected, remove the pinch bolt and tap the hub down with a club hammer. Undoe top nut and remove shock.
Bolted new one at top and pressed the bottom of the shock in with a trolley jack under the ball joint.
 
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